Changing from cam to crank probably did the most good. The engine doesn't run well wit that setting at cam speed.

Ken

 

so now its decided it wants to have no spark. what the proper method for testing spark output? it fired up earlier today but now it doesnt want to start and wont register spark on my timing light.

 

Place one of the leading spark plug leads on the shock tower, and stick an old spark plug on the wire. A timing light isn't a reliable method of checking for spark.

 

plugs were fouled, i got new ones. but now aarons ve table is running really lean for me. that seems weird because at first it was running nice and rich. im trying to find anything that could be wrong. any ideas?

 

alright, after adjusting the ve table for idle and cruise the afr's are ok. now im having what seems to be a weird ignition problem. ill be driving around and the tach in the dash with start to jump and the car will start to hesitate and backfire. sometimes it happens just for a slit second and sometimes it will pop and bang for a sec then die. it seems to be somewhat of a random problem, it didnt really appear til i have been running the car for awhile.e Whats really weird is that the tach in the megasquirt didnt change at all, none of the MS gauges seemed to show the problem.e

edit: i just went outside to mess with the car again. it seems that relay for the fuel pump is turning off right before the car dies. is there a way
to tell if the megasquirt is causing this or if its external? I have a walbro 255 with a 30amp relay controlled by the ms. the power is fed from the stock fuel pump fuse (rewired with larger wire).

I dont currently have an ignition condenser wired in because i haven't found an fc one yet. would this cause this problem?

Thanks for any input guys. I will try to get a vid of the problem later.

 

You're loosing ignition sync. Check your CAS wires, shielding, etc. If you datalog the issue you'll see RPM showing erratically in the log.

 

so i might just have to adjust the pots some more too right?

 

does anyone have a screenshot or a log of what the rx7 cas is supposed to look like in composite logger? i think it would be a big help to me if i know what im supposed to make it look like.

 

now some really weird stuff. it will run fine then all at once shut off. the MS stops communicating with my pc even tho it still has 12v. if i power off then back on the ms still wont connect to the pc. if i crank the car the ms will light up and go online and the car will run fine til it dies again. Sometimes it will try to die a couple times before it does. if im driving it will just die and the tach will go to zero, after i crank again it will start. im not getting any sync errors right now, and am kinda confused. ive tried adjusting the pots but pretty much no matter where they are this will happen.

 

^looks like you're experiencing similar problems to what I was having. The fuel pump relay would cut out and it would stall. It showed "full sync" and when I looked at a log (which for whatever reason didn't save and/or I can't find it) the wave looked fine...

I too couldn't get any consistency, one run would be lean, the next very rich despite what I had changed in the settings.

Unfortunately I won't be of much help to you though, I'm back to stock for the time being. Good luck!

 

How did you run your grounds? Where is the MS getting power?

Ken

 

grounds all ground to the same point on the engine block. i ran a ten gauge power wire through my engine harness to power everything, it powers injectors, idle valve, ms3. its powered from my fc fuse box and has a relay to turn it on when the car turns on.

 

OK, powering the MS from the same wire as injectors and idle valve is not good. That will cause the input power to be very noisy.

Grounds should be as the factory did it:

Sensors should ground to the ECU, the ECU should ground to the engine, the engine should ground to the chassis through the ground strap on the firewall. The battery should be connected to the driver's side strut tower brace, and from there to the starter.

Ken

 

the ground are as from the factory. except i have relocated my battery to the rear the battery grounds at the seat belt bolt. i will add some extra ground from the engine to chassis and the chassis to battery ground to see if this clears things up.

i will try to give it power from a different source. should i give it a dedicated line?

im also going to add a condenser into the coil power wire to make sure no spark energy is messing with my MS.

 

well a loose ground bolt on the ms grounds would definatly cause this fixed now thanks.