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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 11:45 PM
  #1  
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From: jax
Just got my LC-1

I read through the little booklet it came with, havn't read the cd manual yet but I was wondering if anyone can give me a heads up oh how to install this thing. It looks straight forward as far as the power wires and the analog outputs but how do i set it up in megatune?

And do i need to use the software it came with or can I just use it with megatune and maybe use the other software it came with later?
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 06:30 AM
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in MSconfig, you just set the o2 input to innovate 0-5v, this corresponds to 0v = 10 AFR and 5v = 20 AFR. Then you need to connect to the LC-1 with the little plugs that come with it and set up whichever analog output you run to the MS to produce that signal. Make sure that the LC-1 and the MS are both grounded to the engine block (thru the emissions harness seems to have been fine for me), and setup-wise you're done. Using the additional accuracy of the LC-1 with the MS is covered in the lambda, lambda target table and 02 settings in megatune.

Be careful where you mount it. I had mine up above and behind the transmission support with the wires routed thru the shifter hole because this allowed me to put the IN and OUT wires coiled below the shifter boot, tied out of the way but still readily accessable, and could easily run my connector plug over to the emissions harness near the MS (which i mounted in the stock ECU location) and to the AFR gauge on the dash. However, some of the wires worked their way loose and met with the driveshaft, killing the LC-1. I think im still going to install it in that place, but im going to make an aluminum shield for the driveshaft at that spot that I can tie the wires down on the other side of, so theres no way of that happening again.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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From: mo
FYI i had to use different ground's on mine or i got a bounce in the signal, i have the power (were the power comes from didn't make a differance for me) going to the fuse box and the heater ground going to the body and the system ground to the ms ground,,with both grounds going to the ms/block i had a bouncing signal and ya i know they say to hook it up with both going to the block! Before u hook it all the way up and run you're wires extra, u may want to test and see if u have a steady signal or not u may have to move the groudns around (try it like it says to do in the manual first), just test it with the car off and set the analog out u are using to flat line 2.5v on both boxes not 0 in one and 5 in the other and look at the gauge in MT or log it!
here is a link for my lm-1 that i had a problem with, only way i could get it right was to use a external power source (i never did build the circuit at the end of this post, so i don't know if that would have worked or not).

https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-forum-153/wbo2-signal-unstable-spikes-bounce-637071/
FYI my lc-1 is a 6 wire

Last edited by twister7; Aug 7, 2007 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 05:37 PM
  #4  
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From: jax
How important is it to land one of the grounds on the engine? I was going to get my power from the harness that went to the factory ECU along with one of the grounds and use the chassis as another ground.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 11:06 PM
  #5  
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I was just about to wire it up and i decided to install the sensor first. I have the old school 2 1/2" Racing Beat down pipe, the wide band sensor didnt fit at all. Now I need to weld the new bung in. My question is now how far back should I install it? My friend tells me about 12" back from the turbo. And the instructions say something about how not to install it. The 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. I found a good 4 O'clock position but i need to know if it is close or far enough away from the turbo, about 10" down after the first bend.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 12:31 AM
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From: mo
Originally Posted by quasar
How important is it to land one of the grounds on the engine? I was going to get my power from the harness that went to the factory ECU along with one of the grounds and use the chassis as another ground.
Try to set it up as the instructions say to first, power from the the harness should be fine, u may need to play with the grounds some to get it right so, do a mock up and test see were it reads right, before u go shrink warping and soldering, a bouncing signal is what u need to be worried about, a small offset is no big deal just set it up in the lc-1's software (offset example: sensor reads 2.59v and lc-1 is set for 2.50v) !

for me mine worked best set like this,,your's may not u have to test!!!

red power wire = fuse box or ms's power source eather worked with a 5 amp fuse(i used the fuse box)

heater ground = bounced with it hooked to the same point as the system ground, didn't bounce at all sold as a rock with it hooked to a body ground (i hooked it to were the peddles mount 12mm nut)!

system ground = same ground that ms uses (taped in to the adapter harness between ms and the factory harness)

Last edited by twister7; Aug 8, 2007 at 12:46 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 12:46 AM
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From: mo
Originally Posted by quasar
I was just about to wire it up and i decided to install the sensor first. I have the old school 2 1/2" Racing Beat down pipe, the wide band sensor didnt fit at all. Now I need to weld the new bung in. My question is now how far back should I install it? My friend tells me about 12" back from the turbo. And the instructions say something about how not to install it. The 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. I found a good 4 O'clock position but i need to know if it is close or far enough away from the turbo, about 10" down after the first bend.
The farther back the better on a turbo rotary the exhaust gets to hot The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung should not exceed 500 oC or 900 oF. If these temperatures are exceeded you should either install a copper heat sink or the Innovate Motorsports Heat-Sink Bung extender (HBX-1). The bung extender is recommended for situations where airflow is restricted or the encountered heat is higher than a heat sink can handle.

If u have cats it has to be before the converter mine is behind the transmission cross member (no cats), were the drive shaft cant get it and the lc-1 is on the RH side frame rail with the wires running behind the heat shields up and in through the hole were the factory harness goes it fit fine w/o cut or messing with the lc-1 wires!

Try to stay in between 3 O'clock and 9 O'clock 2 and 10 would be best!

Last edited by twister7; Aug 8, 2007 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 07:31 AM
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yea, you dont want it at 4 o clock, i was able to get mine at about 10 right after the curve in the midpipe (not running a precat)
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 04:25 PM
  #9  
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From: jax
Cool, the last 3 posts help alot. Hopefully today I can get this new bung welded in.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 05:06 PM
  #10  
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From: jax
Sweet!!! i just fixed my welder!
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 09:56 PM
  #11  
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From: jax
I just got everything installed and it looks like it's working good. I'm getting a steady signal and I followed the advice to use the preinstalled settings for the lc-1 in megatune using the brown wire, 0-5 v and the reading is the same between the inovate software and megatune.

Didn't start the car yet, that'll be for tommorow.
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 06:40 AM
  #12  
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ooh, the sweet sound of progress huh? what else do you have to do before trying to start the car?
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 04:01 PM
  #13  
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From: jax
The car has been running, I've been driving it to work and back. It's running way to rich and I was afraid to lean it out. Getting like 2 mpg. That crappy narrow band always told me it was 14.7.

I have been told there is a autotune program I can use to help me get a good VE table.
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 10:57 PM
  #14  
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From: mo
Mega log viewer
www.ideasandsolutions.biz/megalogviewer/
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 04:16 PM
  #15  
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From: jax
I found this bit of information on another site and found it very usefull. I'm going to post it here for everyone to use. It helped me out alot.



I will have to try this and get back to everyone. As you can see, I have been running three squirts, and tuning has seemed to be ok, but for some reason I can't get the gas mialage anywhere near what I want. I will edit this when I figure things out.



Now you can tell megasquirt that you are using a wideband controller. This is done through the EGO Control screen.

Fuel Tables 1+3 >> Exhaust Gas Settings



Now you need to tell megasquirt that you are going to use AFR targets. This can be done through lambda sensor targets.

Fuel Basics >> Lambda AFR Settings



Now you can set your AFR Targets. You should notice that this was not an option before setting the Lambda AFR settings.

Fuel Basics >> AFR Targets for VE Table 1

These are the AFR targets that I chose, but by all means, adjust them, especially if you have gone and changed the 0-5V settings for your wideband, and if they have different settings. You can read more about this below the next image.



These targets are set up assuming you are using the Innovate LC-1, and have not changed the settings that it came with. Most people do, but I could not get the software to work, so I called Innovate and got the pre programed linear regression equation. Below you can download an excell spreadsheet that will allow you to calculate your own AFR > Volts.



DOWNLOAD

Now you can set up your VE table. If you generate one, it should allow your car to run, even if it is rough. You can use the one below if you are stumped, but you must remember that it is not yet tuned. To be safe the VE table below is too rich, so you will need to lean it out, or let megasquirt tune for you.



Other Windows of Interest:

Crank/Warmup >> Cranking Settings



Crank/Warmup >> After Start Enrichment Settings



Fuel Basics >> Acceleration Wizzard



__________________________________________________ ___

To Tune:

Go to TUNING >> VE TABLE 1

Click the Autotune button on the lower right.

Drive around untill the car is warmed up, and MS starts to auto tune.

Stay at lower RPM in beginning.

Every 1/2 mile, click 'B' to burn the values.

Every 2 miles pull over and smooth out your VE table.

Enjoy a Tuned E30!
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