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Megasquirt Its running!!!! And a couple q's too.

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Old May 5, 2009 | 08:07 PM
  #26  
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Now the controller will not take the update to 2.1.0o? What the heck
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Old May 5, 2009 | 08:17 PM
  #27  
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Describe how you are trying to update it.

Ken
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Old May 5, 2009 | 08:32 PM
  #28  
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Ok I got the firm ware 2.1.0o from the top or the forum, saved it in megatune, I go to megatune and open the file, I click on the firmwarebat file, and follow directions, ms2, com1,not updating from ms2 standard code, and hit the key. Then it erases , writes verified succeded, press any key. go to megatune ensure the 210o s19 is activated and open megatune. then it says expected 210o and recieved 2.0.0 from controller. Then i tried using the bootloader and same outcome.

I also have ignition breakup i looked at a datalog and saw at 3500rpm it dropes to 0 then to 8500 then 00 then back down 3500 and own down and if i hold steady when it studders it will come back then go away.
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Old May 5, 2009 | 10:59 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by nu-rx7junkie
Ok I got the firm ware 2.1.0o from the top or the forum, saved it in megatune, I go to megatune and open the file, I click on the firmwarebat file, and follow directions, ms2, com1,not updating from ms2 standard code, and hit the key. Then it erases , writes verified succeded, press any key. go to megatune ensure the 210o s19 is activated and open megatune. then it says expected 210o and recieved 2.0.0 from controller. Then i tried using the bootloader and same outcome.
You didn't run copyini.bat did you? If you didn't, you should.

I also have ignition breakup i looked at a datalog and saw at 3500rpm it dropes to 0 then to 8500 then 00 then back down 3500 and own down and if i hold steady when it studders it will come back then go away.

That's noise on your VR sensor most likely. Check your grounds and make sure they're clean, and set up the same as the factory. Also check that the shielding on your VR wires is grounded in only one spot, and make sure that you wired the VR correctly.

Ken
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Old May 5, 2009 | 11:48 PM
  #30  
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ok got the 210d flash to work. So ground to the block on the rear plate. Then block to fire wall or frame rail?

And ill check the vr wires again but pretty sure I have checked them before and they were right but can hurt to look again and check it off.

Thanks again.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 01:32 PM
  #31  
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The stock grounds are like this:

Battery grounds to strut-tower, and then to the starter.

The megasquirt grounds to the engine, and the bell-housing grounds to the chassis.

You'll also want to make sure all the ring terminals are clean, etc...

Ken
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Old May 8, 2009 | 09:50 PM
  #32  
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OK I have been redoing the grounds and once again cleaning them and using sandpaper to ensure good contact but it is still happening. Right at 4000 rpms it just sucks. The rpm guage in megatune is grayed out in the top center of it if that matters. And does not read anything when it gets to that point, but in realtime display it will read to 4000rpm and then the motor misfires and backfires. I adjusted the r52 pot in the middle of the board until it backfired in the exhaust and still have the interruption. So I put the pot back counterclockwise. Could it be the cas teeth? Or something I set wrong or didn't set in megatune? Almost feels like a revlimiter.lol But that is set 8500 soft and 9000 hard.
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Old May 9, 2009 | 10:03 AM
  #33  
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Sounds like you might be triggering off the wrong edge of the tach signal, or your V3 VR sensor pots are not fully counterclockwise.

You can also try experimenting with the noise filter options.

Ken
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Old May 9, 2009 | 05:08 PM
  #34  
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ok tried rising and falling edge and going high and low settings and still happening.Going to try noise filters and finish my jim stim and see if it is the car.
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Old May 9, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #35  
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Built the jim stim and now how do i get a good vr 12-1 signal out of it ?I set the tach for 12-1 per the instructions and used the 12v pullup for ignition. I can only get anything to happen if i turn the vr pots on the megasquirt but only to 3000rpms.
Also what about r48 on the ms2 board should it be 100k or 10k I read h4inf's write up and it talked about diyautotune using 100k and and other kits using 10k. Which one should I use or will it make a difference?
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Old May 12, 2009 | 06:36 PM
  #36  
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Ok been going back through the board reading anout troubleshooting and found where it mentions d24 being 1n4001 or 1n4148. I found my old bags that had the d24 diode and it said it was 1n4001 and manual recommeds changing it out for the other if you have problems in higher rpms, so why not, cant hurt can it? lol and what about the c32 cap. Should I remove it if nothing else works? Thanks
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #37  
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Ok changed out the d24 diode and still happening. Pulled the cas and wired it to the jim stim so i could get a real signal to messwith instead of depending on the car. I can read 4000rpms and then it starts jumping around to 0 and backup. And the even to 5500 or so. I got a datalog ill post it too, I think it has the problem happening. So what next
Attached Files
File Type: zip
datalog200905122203.zip (56.5 KB, 29 views)
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Old May 14, 2009 | 10:18 AM
  #38  
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I'll take a look when I'm home if nobody beats me to it.

Post your latest and greatest msq while you're at it.

Ken
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Old May 14, 2009 | 10:20 AM
  #39  
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When you changed the rising/falling settings, did you reboot the MS in between?

Ken
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Old May 14, 2009 | 12:50 PM
  #40  
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I always reboot the ms after changes.
Ok great news I have a good tach signal from 0-43000 rpms using the stock cas on the jimstim. I had luck after changing c31 cAP. The kit i got had a .1uf cap in it 'and found a problem just like mine on msextra or msefi. I had to use a .001uf cap for c31. So im off to the car to see what happens there.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 01:05 AM
  #41  
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OK seems to be running good. The spark plugs were fouled when I got to rev it up but it sounded great. Got the plugs changed and adjusted ve table after it warmed up and got a 14-1500 rpm idle @14.3-5 afr. Now the afr in megatune isnt reading it says 10.10afr. I have a plx sm-afr 0-5v wideband. I hooked the output wire on the wideband controller to the o2 wire of the megasquirt and go in megatune and calibrate afr table to the innovative/plx. Nothing
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Old May 18, 2009 | 09:35 AM
  #42  
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Use a voltmeter to measure the voltage on that wire. If it's not going between 0 and 5v and changing when you rev, etc... the output on the wideband is broken.

Ken
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Old May 18, 2009 | 12:43 PM
  #43  
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Crap duh. Ill look at it.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 04:31 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by nu-rx7junkie
Built the jim stim and now how do i get a good vr 12-1 signal out of it ?I set the tach for 12-1 per the instructions and used the 12v pullup for ignition. I can only get anything to happen if i turn the vr pots on the megasquirt but only to 3000rpms.
Also what about r48 on the ms2 board should it be 100k or 10k I read h4inf's write up and it talked about diyautotune using 100k and and other kits using 10k. Which one should I use or will it make a difference?
what did you end up doing with r48?
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Old May 22, 2009 | 03:53 PM
  #45  
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Used a 100k but not sure it mattered.
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