http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCFfT...layer_embedded


Ok it runs pretty good well idling. Starts with a brief bump on the throttle and fires right up. So What would a timing map look like for a half bridge port turbo? I saw the BDC maps and it looked different than mine. Well its in kpa and mine is in throttle % i believe. And other maps were 0-10 degrees in the low throttle range.?

Also I cant get the timing marks on the eshaft pulley to come around? When I stab the cas do I line up the 3rd tooth after the missing? I picked 2 teeth and cut them. I can take a pic of the cas if it helps? But I set the trigger offset I think it is to 60. And locked timing to -5degrees. So how do I get the timing marks around to set it? I have been searching but lots of info for msI. And hard to find what I need for ms2. Let me know guys thanks.

 

Did you set your ignition primary load to alpha-n? If not, and it's still speed density, then you're using kPa too.

For ms2/extra, you don't use trigger offset. That should be set to 0, and you should use the tooth #1 angle in the trigger wheel settings to get the correct timing. If you stabbed it with tooth #3 after the missing tooth lined up then your tooth #1 angle should be 60 degrees.

Ken

 

OK still cant get the timing marks around to the pointer but still trying. Does the car have to warm up completly before the marks line up? I dont think so. I attached a couple photos just incase im doing something wrong let me know.

 

I can't help much with the timing setting on the MSII becuase I don't know the screens off by heart, but are you locking timing before trying to see it with the light and is the engine running at a steady RPM?

As for your low throttle timing map, bridgeports like a lot of timing and a lot of split. You will probably find it idles well from 18-20 degrees and 15 degrees of split.

All those people running 8-10 degrees of timing are crazy anyway. Even a stock port engine really likes at least 15 degrees.

 

locked timimg to -5 the rpm is reading a pretty steady 1500rpm right now im going to close the idle screw on the throttle body some and sse what happens. Maybe idle being high could cause this?

 

Not a street port 12A! -5 to 0 is what mine needs for best idle. It does need an immediate jump to 15 or so just a couple of hundred RPM off idle under any load at all...

 

Yeah, my stock NA 13B needs around -5 to -3 to idle nice, when I push the advance up, it starts missing a lot unless there's some load on it.

 

If you set fixed timing to -5, it should be at -5 no matter what RPM or coolant temperature you're at.

I've found that some timing lights will read 180 degrees out even though the leading coil is a wasted spark system unless I put it on the correct wire. You might try putting the timing light on the other leading wire.

Also, I can check your settings if you post an msq. Did you make the setting changes I suggested yesterday?

Ken

 

mine likes around +5. +8 to +15 makes it idle like ****!

 

The pictures of the cas above is how I stabbed it. And I went into #1 tooth angle and set it to sixty yes. The marks look a good ways off when it idles at what I think sounds good. I changed the #1 tooth angle to 40 and the marks were further out. So today im going try going to like70-80 and see what happens. But how will i know its zeroed to where it supposed to be. Maybe i can chop different teeth out of a different cas the would line up with the sixy angle. And Im sure im not 180 out. And at 65degrees I can turn the cas to the leading mark but it really wants to die and sounds nothing like a HBP. Oh yeah I have the fidle circuit running my fan how do i configure it.Start/idle screen? on off switch? and like 300 degree on and hyst. like 160 just to see if it works? Or do i need to go to aux outputs?pwm#2? Sorry to keep asking this should be simple.

 

If you cut where you say you cut (it's hard to tell from the pics for me anyway) then you should leave it at 60 degrees for the tooth #1 angle, set the timing to -5 fixed, and adjust the CAS to get the timing to line up.

For the fan, make sure you turn off all idle control, then go to the spare ports settings and use the dialog there to set up the fan for whatever CLT you want.

How do you have your MS wired? TSEL to VROUT or VROUTINV?

What do you have your outputs set to (normal, or inverted)?

What edge are you triggering on?

Can you post an msq?

Ken

 

What AFRs are you guys with no timing running?

 

tsel-vroutinv

falling edge going low normal

And on the spare out put the power on valus?1? and trigger value 1? would that be right for a fan ?
sorry the pictures are not great

 

here is a msq

 

Around the 12.5:1 to 13:1 mark. The cars don't really get the lump lump idle until much richer like 10.5:1 - 11:1.

I'd love to idle at 14.7:1 but there is so little room for error there that it will stall all the time. I'm sure 14:1 idle AFR is possible with the right port, intake setup, injectors and ECU correctly tuned with all compensations setup right.

 

I run 12:1-13:1, any leaner, regardless of the timing, it runs crappy.

Ken

 

Are you using the stock flywheel?

Ken

 

Actually, I think due to the rotary having some overlap, and due to the low air velocity at idle, it needs the richer AFR to idle correctly. For me, if I go any leaner than about 13:1, it idles like crap.

Any richer than about 12:1, and the quality of the idle changes, although it's not crappy until about 11:1.

Ken

 

Ok go tthe fan working and the timing marks are pretty close at tooth #1angle btdc @90.

 

Sounds like the CAS might be stabbed wrong or something similar.

Also, I noticed that you're running a REALLY old firmware (2.0.0)

You should switch to 2.1.0 as there are a ton of rotary-specific fixes in there.

Ken

 

Also, your spark A output should be set to D14.


You should probably turn off 1st deriv prediction in "more ignition options" until you get everything running right, as this can cause some ignition jitter.

IF you stabbed the CAS correctly with the engine turned to the -5 degree mark, and the CAS stayed at the third tooth after the missing one (holding the CAS with the Ne sensor at the top of the CAS, the third tooth to the right of the missing one), the tooth #1 angle should be between 60 and 70 degrees.

Also, make sure both of your VR potentiometers are turned fully counterclockwise.

Ken

 

Third tooth to the right, dangit. I got it know. So base timing is good, idle was crappy and lean so threw in some fuel and sounding real good.

Also do you have to build the tacho circuit described in the manual to run the stock tach? Or an aftermarket one? Or can i jumper js10 or other pinout to the db harness?

Has anyone used the bdc maps for the half bridge turbo?

 

if you have the stock leading and trailing coils, the tach pulls its signal from the trailing coil. If its not working, you either have a problem with the wiring between the two, or your trailing coil is not working/not being signalled.

 

Ah, you guys idle your cars almost a point richer then I do. I like an idle in the high 13s and the only way I can achieve it is a lot of timing and a bit more split. BAC becomes important as well.

 

I've done it the way you do too, but then it's not quite as smooth.

the -5 to 0 degrees with around 12-13:1 method produces a VERY smooth idle... like the engine doesn't vibrate at all I think it's stalled at every light smooth.

I use the BAC valve as well as I have my idle screw set to 600 rpm, but idle at 800. I'm using ms2/extra's closed-loop idle speed control to control idle speed.

Ken