Hi

My FC leading coil pack is working fine. First go.

I can't get either of my two FC trailing coil packs to work. I have included a picture. Firstly I have tried switching IGt/T and IGs/T in case I got them the wrong way around. I'm pretty sure I have the right pins soldered to the on DB37, and that they are awesome joints.

Here is how its wired.

http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf1768wg0.jpg
[img=http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/7422/copyofdscf1768wg0.th.jpg]

 

Define "not working"

Are they just not doing anything? Only one of the coils firing? Please elaborate.

I'll have to do some continuity testing on my stock harness to see what wire from the stock harness goes to what wire on the ignitor. I usually just use one of my plug-n-play adapters when I'm testing an MS on a car I have not tested on before, and I've never had any trouble with that.

Ken

 

Not working as in no spark at all.



Now this next bit applies to on the bench.


It will fire if i power the module and touch the Trigger wire to 12V from the battery.

If I put 12V on select and then trigger it again the other coil goes off.

So the coil and module do work, and I had it wired the same way as to the computer :S

 

Just a side-question. Does the trailing coilpack continue firing on decel, or do both leading and trailing packs cut on decel? - I mean in general - not with your specific problem Jobro :P

 

They keep firing.

 

Trailing shouldn't cut out during decel either. The only reason that would happen is if you have the split setting in the split table purposely set to cut trailing at high vacuum (low kPa).

If you're not getting spark on trailing then either the settings for trailing are wrong, the wiring between the MS and the coilpack is wrong, or the internal pullups or wiring inside the MS are wrong.

Ken

 

Thanks Ken I will have a look when I get home!

 

Well I haven't tested it on the car yet, but I did find a dry joint

So that means Ken was right..... again

 

sweet. where was the dry joint ?

 

One or both of D15's pins. I found it by measuring the resistance between the transistors behind the LED's (Q6,Q7,Q8). The resistance was different for the Q7 (middle transistor )in one direction, on two of the pins. I re wet LED15 and the resistance became the same as the other transistors. Interestingly, the middle LED was behaving oddly, and I had noticed that. I thought the problem was a dead Q8 after some checking.

I will road test the car very soon and post back once I confirm it was that.

 

All ignition problems sorted. There was a dry joint on the middle LED.

 

Good News.