sft3303

The pertinent info has been posted, like I said above. Basically, the situation is this: right now my DIYPNP is not sending out the leading coil signal in FC or FD mode. Trailing signal and trailing select toggle signal work, but no leading signal. In FD mode with RX8 mode "on", I have all 4 signals, including leading signals.

I have not found a solution to this, but plan on treating my current setup as if it were an RX8, and sending the leading RX8 signals to the FC leading coil.

This is an N/A car, and will not be running boost. Running just leading coils will be a temporary fix to get the car on the road while the permanent solution is sought/found.

ben@diyautotune

In RX8 mode...
Spark A is front leading
B is front trailing
C is rear trailing
D is rear leading

On your bench, 0 RPM signal, in FC mode (and without coils hooked up!), if you set the spark outputs to going low, do you measure 5V on each spark A, spark B, and spark C?

What I'm reading is that you are seeing signal on spark B and spark C, but not A. The most common cause for this is either selecting MS2 instead of microsquirt when loading firmware or not selecting microsquirt module in the project properties. Also please ensure that your spark A output pin is set to IGN1 and not tacho, D14, or JS10.

sft3303

On the bench, 0 RPM signal, in FC mode (no coils hooked up), I measure 5V on spark A (I have not measured B or C). When I switch to going High, it switches to 0V at 0 RPM, and at other RPM's I get signals at spark B and C.

The spark A output is set to IGN1

Firmware was just flashed, ensured that microsquirt was selected when firmware was loaded. Project setting for megasquirt type was a microsquirt module/diypnp

I'm home now for the weekend, and I hooked the diypnp up to the car. All my inputs are working well and it looks like most of my outputs too, judging by the outcome.

I got the car to sputter and cough tonight (some rather large backfires), catching as if it wanted to start, but it wouldn't catch and run.

The spark setting I'm using for now is FD mode with RX8 mode enabled, sending what would be the RX8 front leading spark signal to the FC leading coil pack.

Anyone seeing any holes in my logic? The Front/Rear leading signals in RX8 mode looked identical (as opposed to phased by 180*, as if quasi-wasted spark setup) so i figured the signal from one would do? Anyone have some experience here? Or more ideas as to how to get the proper FC mode to work?

sft3303

Ok, so the car is almost starting. I got my signals sorted out, but I just can't get the thing to pick up and run. It coughs and puffs and now and again it will let out an angry backfire, but it just won't catch and start.

Here's a vid of the spark outputs being combined. Note that one green LED is for front leading spark signal, one orange LED is for rear leading spark signal, and the last green LED is the combined signal of both (to be sent to the leading coil, used in wasted spark style). Anyone think there would be any issues caused by this set up?:

Spark Output Test

A vid of the car trying to start:
Attempted Starting

Datalog of the longer start attempt:






Anyone have any thoughts or ideas? The smoke in the exhaust is to be expected, I had just put some oil in the housings to try to keep compression up, as it had been sitting a while. I'd host a .msq and .msl if photobucket would let me. If someone wants to be kind enough to look at them for me, then I'll gladly do my best to send them their way.

denverstone

I cant see the videos, and what do you mean you got your signals sorted out? Are you using the RX8 style like Ben described?

sft3303

Dang, the video kind of explained it.

It's in FD/RX8 mode, with the front leading and rear leading (spark outputs A and D) tied together to get a signal for a wasted spark leading spark configuration. So I've got kind of a band-aid solution that should get the car running on the leading coil only.

ben@diyautotune

So you have spark A and spark D just tied together? I don't think that's going to work (not that I've ever tried). I suspect that the non-active output pulls the active output down the whole time, resulting in no valid spark signal. I further suspect that the small signs of life you're seeing are from the trailing coil only -- but this is only a guess.

You'd be better off disconnected spark outputs B, C, D, and leaving only A connected to the leading coil pack. Then set the ECU up as a 4 cylinder piston engine, single coil, distributor.
It should run fairly normally like that, I suspect... at least as well as a rotary without trailing spark would run.

sft3303

I have spark A and spark D tied together through LED's (tl;dr: diodes) so that current can't flow into the other output, as the diode will only allow current out of the output, and not allow any to flow in. Perhaps what you are saying is right though, and it's pulling that signal down.

The trailing coils were unplugged at this point.

I'll attempt using 4 cyl, single coil, distributor. What I'd really like to do is get FC mode to work. Is there anything else I can try that might get the megasquirt to act as it is supposed to?

camman

sounds like a configuration/build/wiring issue

ben@diyautotune

I don't know of any issues with 3.2.4 firmware that would cause the problem with spark A as you describe. However if you like, you can roll back the firmware to an earlier version to see if that resolves your problem. Earlier firmware versions are downloadable here:
Index of /doc/ms2extra/files/release

I recommend disconnecting your "paired" ignition outputs.

sft3303

I'll try starting over again, and remove my ign. output setup and go to the recommended one.

If i try all of that again, starting over from the beginning, and I still get nothing, can it be sent in at all, even just to be looked at?

Thanks for all the help.

sft3303

Switching to the 4 cyl single coil output mode gave me a constant 5V. Toggling between going high/going low gave me the same constant signal.

I'm going to go back to my adapted RX8 mode tonight when my dad gets home and can crank the car while I can check the spark signal with a timing light while he cranks the car, to make sure the CAS is where it's supposed to be (I should think it is, as when the stock ECU is plugged in, the car idles on its own, and the timing seems to be fine, leading me to believe that the physical location of the CAS is where it is supposed to be).

Any thoughts from anyone? I'd really like to just get it to work the way it's supposed to...

denverstone

I actually put the one I built in the car yesterday and all the "magic electrical smoke" stayed in.... so thats a plus. I was able to get a few good pops which is pretty exciting, however I was only able to get one set of coils to spark. I hooked them up the way Ben describes as well and I used ArronCakes guild for settings. I will post more later tonight and my project file for review.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you are mixing writeups, remember that my settings may use different pins for different purposes than the DIY one does.

chango de naranjito

3.2.4 firmware do not work for rotary mode,James is working on a solution,you can use 3.1.1 or .3.1.0 I had the same problem here

ben@diyautotune

Yikes. Thanks for the head's up. I was unaware.

3.1.0 release can be downloaded here:
Index of /doc/ms2extra/files/release

Disconnect your coils when flashing firmware.

camman

i've been using 3.2.4 on my s5t for 6 months with no problems

ben@diyautotune

I confirmed with James that there is a problem with leading coil spark on 3.2.4 when using a Microsquirt Module and rotary mode. This problem does not affect ECUs with MS2 daughterboards, just Microsquirt Module based systems.

Please use 3.1.0 release for now.

James expects to be able to fix this issue with the next MS2/extra release 3.2.5

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

thats shitty.

denverstone

I got the car to "run" a few times but it wont stay running on its own for very long. Does anyone have a base map for fuel and ignition that runs for the DIYPNP?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The VE table and ignition table for the DIYPNP will be exactly the same for any other MS2, so you can import the tables on my website. Even those may not keep the car running as they are quite rich in most cases. But it may be easier than starting from scratch.

sft3303

This has taken a back seat to school recently, i'll give this a look and get my results up.

denverstone

We got the car to actually run for a bit last week...... and it ran pretty good, but still not to a point where we want to start driving.....
The weird thing was it seemed like the timing was WAY retarded..... I had to add about 7 to 8 degrees of timing from from what AaronCake has in his tables for it to start and run smooth..... I tried to follow the guild to set the base timing but there was not enough adjustment in the CAS to hit the timing mark.... wondering if the CAS is not clocked correctly, but it runs fairly well on the stock ECU..... Thoughts?

chango de naranjito

You have to remove/install the CAS a little advanced and adjust it in tuner studio

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The NE sensor is connected backwards. Swap your polarity setting on the MS and see if it clears up. This is especially true if timing drifts farther away from where it should be as engine speed increases.