Megasquirt Diy plug and play
08-25-09, 08:54 PM
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Diy plug and play
Did any one try this?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/d...kit-p-384.html
it seems to be a very good reason to spend $460,considering a microtech retails for $1450 and is not the same fun with the soldering iron!!!!!!!!! I will buy the connectors to make the harness in my gsl rx7 85 what you think?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/d...kit-p-384.html
it seems to be a very good reason to spend $460,considering a microtech retails for $1450 and is not the same fun with the soldering iron!!!!!!!!! I will buy the connectors to make the harness in my gsl rx7 85 what you think?
08-25-09, 09:11 PM
#2
sooo... its basically an MS2/V3 kit, but with extra components for the various outputs, LM1815 circuit etc? The connector it comes with is nice, but you can get that from your stock ECU too... and im not sure that the FB's used the same connector as the FC. Plus, to get control over the fuel pump, you'll need to pull apart the stock emissions harness, and if you're doing that, you may as well hook it up to the DB37, and replace the wires that are deteriorating, clean up the grounds etc.
08-25-09, 10:32 PM
#3
MegaSquirt Mod
I have one. Currently they don't have an S4 setup yet but they do have a connector for the S5.
Once I have time to play with it, I'll post pics, etc... I'll just need to get it on a stock S5.
Ken
Once I have time to play with it, I'll post pics, etc... I'll just need to get it on a stock S5.
Ken
08-26-09, 03:17 PM
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We've pretty extensively tested on in our 84 GSL SE, though that was hardwired in since we don't offer that connector. Runs awesome though.
We also just yesterday fired one up on a 1990 N/A car that belongs to the owner at a neighbor shop. Runs great, going to tune it for him this week sometime and we'll be posting an 'Application Doc' for this car complete with exact pinout/jumper information and base startup map.
We also just yesterday fired one up on a 1990 N/A car that belongs to the owner at a neighbor shop. Runs great, going to tune it for him this week sometime and we'll be posting an 'Application Doc' for this car complete with exact pinout/jumper information and base startup map.
08-26-09, 03:18 PM
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Oh yeah almost forgot, we're drawing up the PCBs for the S4 connector now. I've got several hundred of them on the way here, and a few handfuls of them already here.
We'll be calling that the 'N52' kit.
We'll be calling that the 'N52' kit.
08-26-09, 03:33 PM
#7
MegaSquirt Mod
We've pretty extensively tested on in our 84 GSL SE, though that was hardwired in since we don't offer that connector. Runs awesome though.
We also just yesterday fired one up on a 1990 N/A car that belongs to the owner at a neighbor shop. Runs great, going to tune it for him this week sometime and we'll be posting an 'Application Doc' for this car complete with exact pinout/jumper information and base startup map.
We also just yesterday fired one up on a 1990 N/A car that belongs to the owner at a neighbor shop. Runs great, going to tune it for him this week sometime and we'll be posting an 'Application Doc' for this car complete with exact pinout/jumper information and base startup map.
I have seen that make hot-starts after sitting for 15-20 minutes a lot easier. It keeps vapor-lock from occurring in that situation.
On my S4, the wire that controls that solenoid has a short that's keeping it from working, so it doesn't cut vacuum to the FPR when it should, and hot starts in those situations will sputter a bit then stall after a few seconds. Unhooking vacuum from the FPR and plugging the line for about 30-60 seconds after starting keeps this from happening.
Ken
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08-26-09, 03:41 PM
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Make sure that you set it up to control the fuel pressure regulator solenoid...
I have seen that make hot-starts after sitting for 15-20 minutes a lot easier. It keeps vapor-lock from occurring in that situation.
On my S4, the wire that controls that solenoid has a short that's keeping it from working, so it doesn't cut vacuum to the FPR when it should, and hot starts in those situations will sputter a bit then stall after a few seconds. Unhooking vacuum from the FPR and plugging the line for about 30-60 seconds after starting keeps this from happening.
Ken
I have seen that make hot-starts after sitting for 15-20 minutes a lot easier. It keeps vapor-lock from occurring in that situation.
On my S4, the wire that controls that solenoid has a short that's keeping it from working, so it doesn't cut vacuum to the FPR when it should, and hot starts in those situations will sputter a bit then stall after a few seconds. Unhooking vacuum from the FPR and plugging the line for about 30-60 seconds after starting keeps this from happening.
Ken
08-26-09, 03:50 PM
#10
MegaSquirt Mod
That solenoid cuts vacuum to the FPR when you turn it on... so normally it's off. I believe Mazda just turns it on for 90 seconds after start.
I've got it set to turn on for 90 seconds after start if MAT > 140. I don't know if this is the best way to do it yet however since I need to fix that wire. A pn2222a is enough to run the solenoid properly in my experience. IT should be able to handle 1A, and the solenoid when I last tested it was drawing 300 mA. This was all years ago though so my memory may be faulty.
Ken
I've got it set to turn on for 90 seconds after start if MAT > 140. I don't know if this is the best way to do it yet however since I need to fix that wire. A pn2222a is enough to run the solenoid properly in my experience. IT should be able to handle 1A, and the solenoid when I last tested it was drawing 300 mA. This was all years ago though so my memory may be faulty.
Ken
08-26-09, 09:15 PM
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I can get the conectors for my proyect, but want new pins to do the wiring with the wiring bondle diyautotune sells but need new pins were can I find thems?
08-27-09, 07:44 AM
#12
Sorry to go a little OT, but to clarify, the FPR solenoid basically opens the FPR vac port to atmospheric on hot, heat-soaked starts, giving the engine more fuel just when idling/cruising? I don't know, cause I basically pieced together the wiring from a number of places, and didnt have a stock harness (or vacuum setup etc) to reference on the turbo engine. Interesting way of doing it, but what if you get into boost in the first 90 sec? It sounds like you'd need a conditional statement in there, if MAP<1 bar & MAT>60*C or something similar.
08-27-09, 09:39 AM
#13
MegaSquirt Mod
Sorry to go a little OT, but to clarify, the FPR solenoid basically opens the FPR vac port to atmospheric on hot, heat-soaked starts, giving the engine more fuel just when idling/cruising? I don't know, cause I basically pieced together the wiring from a number of places, and didnt have a stock harness (or vacuum setup etc) to reference on the turbo engine. Interesting way of doing it, but what if you get into boost in the first 90 sec? It sounds like you'd need a conditional statement in there, if MAP<1 bar & MAT>60*C or something similar.
On eage8's TII, we've never had a problem without that solenoid, but on my NA I have.
It doesn't make it richer on those starts, it keeps the fuel in the rail from vaporizing before it squirts out the injector. So when that solenoid turns on, it keeps vacuum from going to the FPR.
In my experience, when it's not working, I can start the engine, but almost immediately after starting, it goes super lean (like 17:1) and dies. If I keep my foot on the gas it'll run really crappy at like 16:1 for about 30 seconds then calm down and run like nothing was wrong.
When that solenoid IS working, I start the engine up, and it just stays running, but at a slightly leaner AFR than tuned (if I tune for 12.5:1, it might run 13.3:1 at first, then drop down to 12:1. Once it's there, I can turn the solenoid off again, and run with vacuum to the FPR again).
Ken
12-14-09, 07:53 PM
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Did any one try this?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/d...kit-p-384.html
it seems to be a very good reason to spend $460,considering a microtech retails for $1450 and is not the same fun with the soldering iron!!!!!!!!! I will buy the connectors to make the harness in my gsl rx7 85 what you think?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/d...kit-p-384.html
it seems to be a very good reason to spend $460,considering a microtech retails for $1450 and is not the same fun with the soldering iron!!!!!!!!! I will buy the connectors to make the harness in my gsl rx7 85 what you think?
MS microtech
1) Save maps to PC Y N
2) User reconfigurable from 2gen to 3gen Y N
3) Edit maps offline Y N
4) View maps offline Y N
5) Upgradable Y N
6) Great customer support Y N
7) Cost 3 times more N Y
In my opinion even if the two systems were the same price I would still chose the MS over the VERY LIMITED microtech. Also I like building them so it's a bonus in my book.
12-16-09, 06:14 PM
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The Megasquirt is actually better than the microtech. I have had both and sold my microtech because it was so limited and the manufacturer made false claims about its capabilities.
MS microtech
1) Save maps to PC Y N
2) User reconfigurable from 2gen to 3gen Y N
3) Edit maps offline Y N
4) View maps offline Y N
5) Upgradable Y N
6) Great customer support Y N
7) Cost 3 times more N Y
In my opinion even if the two systems were the same price I would still chose the MS over the VERY LIMITED microtech. Also I like building them so it's a bonus in my book.
MS microtech
1) Save maps to PC Y N
2) User reconfigurable from 2gen to 3gen Y N
3) Edit maps offline Y N
4) View maps offline Y N
5) Upgradable Y N
6) Great customer support Y N
7) Cost 3 times more N Y
In my opinion even if the two systems were the same price I would still chose the MS over the VERY LIMITED microtech. Also I like building them so it's a bonus in my book.
I agree!!!!!!
12-25-09, 08:02 PM
#16
It means 12A all ways^
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As far as tuning a MS goes... I have the oportunity to buy a MS2 that is assembled and wired for a s4 t2 which is what I have....
Are they any harder to install and tune than lets say a lt8s that is also wired for a s4 t2?
Thanks
Keith
Are they any harder to install and tune than lets say a lt8s that is also wired for a s4 t2?
Thanks
Keith
12-25-09, 10:22 PM
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it easier, because here you have people that will help you with all the related installation questions and all is by far more flexible, you can do more with less.
01-12-10, 04:11 PM
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The Megasquirt is actually better than the microtech. I have had both and sold my microtech because it was so limited and the manufacturer made false claims about its capabilities.
MS microtech
1) Save maps to PC Y N
2) User reconfigurable from 2gen to 3gen Y N
3) Edit maps offline Y N
4) View maps offline Y N
5) Upgradable Y N
6) Great customer support Y N
7) Cost 3 times more N Y
In my opinion even if the two systems were the same price I would still chose the MS over the VERY LIMITED microtech. Also I like building them so it's a bonus in my book.
MS microtech
1) Save maps to PC Y N
2) User reconfigurable from 2gen to 3gen Y N
3) Edit maps offline Y N
4) View maps offline Y N
5) Upgradable Y N
6) Great customer support Y N
7) Cost 3 times more N Y
In my opinion even if the two systems were the same price I would still chose the MS over the VERY LIMITED microtech. Also I like building them so it's a bonus in my book.
_____________________________________MS___________ Microtech
1) Save maps to PC______________________Y___________N
2) User reconfigurable from 2gen to 3gen_____Y___________N
3) Edit maps offline_______________________Y___________N
4) View maps offline______________________Y___________N
5) Upgradable___________________________Y___________N
6) Great customer support_________________Y___________N
7) Cost 3 times more_____________________N___________Y
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