manual123

iTrader: (1)

Hello Guys,
I tried to avoid asking the forum for help on this but I have failed considerbly. Right now I cannot get my streetport TII started. I get cranking speed of around 250rpm(as shown on tunerstudio without indication of breaks) no problem. But as of right now, i get zero combustion which is strange as just yesterday I had it started multiple times and even had it idle around 1400rpm smooth. I go to sleep and the car now does not even want to try to start up.

Things that Ive checked:
Ive ran coil test and all coils spark
Ive tested fuel pump to make sure it turns on
Ive checked and restabbed CAS multiple times
Ive adjusted cranking PW with zero effect

May anyone look at my attached tune and log to see if there is something im missing?

Rotate86

if you have built custom fuse board and have injectors on separate circuit have you checked inj fuse?if you have spark and air only thing missing is fuel.

manual123

iTrader: (1)

The injectors are not on a separate circuit. They seem to work when I use the tuner studio test menu. Not to mention that the trailing plugs are wet after attempt to start.

manual123

iTrader: (1)

so I got the car to atleast try to start. it gets to about 400 RPM and never completely catches. ive tried adjusting WUE up and down with out any real success. I'm starting to think I may have a leading coil issue.

I did check cranking timing by fixing it to -5 and looking at it with a light. timing is maybe 2 degree off, 3 at max. I am a a lost at the moment. Im still happier that its catching but sad that its not starting. attached is a composite log.

manual123

iTrader: (1)

I should have attached this too. this is the current tune.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Sure it's not just massively flooded at this point? Easy to happen if tweaking the startup settings and cranking. In most cases when I'm facing this situation I just push start it with another vehicle and then keep it running at a higher RPM while adjusting the VE table.

camman

what aaron said

manual123

iTrader: (1)

What You said Aaron makes sense, and in a perfect world would be the solution but theres an update i would like to share with you all that could shed some light on what might be the real problem.



I've been trying this for while now and as of 5 mins ago got the car to start, twice for a matter of seconds. Now i know that that should mean that i should adjust ve and such to get to a fuel number its happy with but i don't think thats whats missing in this case.

Before i got it started for those seconds, I took a couple videos of me doing an ignition test on my leading coil. the test is not unlike other test that i had performed in the past week or so. With coil A selected, 180ms, dwell 3, i get very inconsistent spark. sometimes it sparks perfectly (no start) other times i get no spark or weird patterns of spark. like (XXX...XXX...XXX) or something like the sort that if i watch it long enough would change until it sparks consistently.

while taking that video ,once it started sparking normally i stopped the test mode and tried to start..it started then died. I did it again and kept it going by pumping the peddle to get rpms up..it lasted maybe 4 secs then died.


so right now, it feels like i have a ignition problem....again.
I thought i had a bad leading a couple of weeks ago(because I've been getting this test crap since then), so i changed leading to a spare i had. no change, no start. Then i bought two used leadings from two different people...no change, no start (at first) I finally get the car started and run it again. this was the last times it ran. At this point i didn't know why it started but suspected that the coils(all 4) are good and that the problem lied someplace else.

This is where this thread begins, after it ran a couple days and then stopped again.

All Coils test good with ohm meter, 1ohm. Cheap DIY o-scope shows leading trigger 0-3~v.

Did I screw up my board so that it fires trigger for coils randomly?

please watch these videos as they should explain what i am seeing better than the crap i just wrote.

manual123

iTrader: (1)

this may be a better video to showcase what it is I'm talking about. this was taken today

manual123

iTrader: (1)

Also , which coil should correspond to which signal output. Mine is

L1 and L2 = A and B(either one in test knife makes them both fire)
T1 = D
T2 = C

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

For MS2 in FC mode, spark should be set up according to the instructions here:

How To Megasquirt Your 2nd Gen RX-7: Building and/or Modding The Megasquirt MS1/MS2

So I'm confused why you are referring to spark A - D. As configured for the rotary, the MS2 has 3 spark outputs provided by pullup resistors on the LEDs.

There is one output to fire leading (Spark A, D14), then one to fire trailing (D16, trigger) and one to select between trailing coils (D15, toggle).

manual123

iTrader: (1)

I did wire it exactly as your guide tells me. Checked it again several times but in tuner studio when I do test mode, cool a and b both are leading and c is trailing rear and d is trailing front. All I can assume is that it just how the software deals with Fc mode as there are only three wires going out to the coils. If you were to go to tuner studio today and test it on your car, what are your results? If different then I've got some sort of problem.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Oh, you're referring to test mode. I've never used test mode on an MS2 so I'm not sure how it behaves.

That method of testing spark isn't really reliable. Either user a spark tester, or remove the wire from the engine and lay a plug on the shock tower.

I checked the map again and there isn't anything which jumps out as incorrect. Based on your symptoms it really does sound like it's a fuel issue. Try enabling ASE to add some fuel after it starts.

But to get it going at this point may require a push start with another vehicle.

The log you've provided is a composite log. What we need is a standard data log. Composite only shows the CAS triggers.

manual123

iTrader: (1)

First of all, I'd like to thank Aaron Cake for your very detailed info and guide that without it, the car wouldn't be running megasquirt to begin with....a very big Thank you Sir

The car is running, more importantly its starting. I dunno what the problem was, all i can do is list the things i did before it started.:

Adjusted cranking PW 10million times up and down in small increments

Change plug wires with brand new ones

Change leading Coil 4x times

Wire wheeled coil landing area bear metal for metal on metal connection, also wire wheeled coils and connections redone

Prayed to Thor

Changed spark Replaced leading front spark plug with old one...STARTED!

Now its worth noting that those plugs are the BURQ7/9P plugs and had about 0 miles on them. put in the old plug and it started. I haven't ohm out the plug yet to see if it is damaged yet..i honestly don't think it is.

Since then, I've replaced the leading coil with two IGN-1a coils so I'm no longer using the legacy coils now anyways, if the problem comes back i'd know right away it wasn't coil related . The fuel pump is a rebuilt unit from rock auto with about 200miles on it, all put on by me on previous build. Primary injectors are rebuilt units 550 units and secondaries are 720s. I also now have new injector plug connectors as i discovered during this troubleshooting that the old ones were total crap(one broke off during inspection ).

TLR the car starts everytime now and i don't know what fixed the problem.

If anyone has any info on how to fine tune startup so it starts quicker than the 3-4 seconds I'd be very happ to hear from you Once again, thank you Aaron!!

muythaibxr

Obviously that is what fixed it!

13b-rotary-vw

Could have been the plug wires being too close to the CAS wires causing interference. I've had this problem many times. Also if the CAS wires are connected in the wrong orientation specified by the program (rising or falling edge).