v 2.2 board was what i followed. i will triple check the harness and soldiering points on the board....everything else is okay just the tach....sry for the lack of info

 

...

 

dont have a stim....anyway 2 test w/o stim?

 

checked my wiring seems ok but i got a few ?s #1 can som1 post up a pin diagram so i can make sure im doing ok. #2 if i hooke up power to my MS and hook it up to my comp and hook the tach sig only up on another vehicle while the vehicle runs will it show up on the real time display? im asking so i can see if its the car or the MS

 

????

 

Is that map for a GSL-SE or for an FC?

They're kinda different but both "13B N/A"...

 

i have noe idea peejay i just found it a while back and made a few adjustments that were on the msi rotary page. im still having issues. i hooked the MS up to my truck and when i rev it would show super high rpm maxing the the tach on the computer then when i go to megaview it will say 255 or 60 or even 5....wtf is going on? also somtimes it wouldnt show anything at idle.

 

anyone??

 

Something is up with the enrichments. It is showing 20% duty cycle when (attempting) to run at 1700-ish RPM no load. If it wasn't for the MSD, I bet it wouldn't run at all... 20% of 130lb-hr worth of injectors is about 52hp worth of fuel... cruising on the highway takes half that

Once I get things half running I'll upload a MSQ.

 

Okay, I disabled all the enrichments and it was still hideously rich. I ended up taking a *lot* of fuel out, *everywhere*. A lot a lot. And this was after knocking the req_fuel down from 8.0 to the calculated 6.4ms.

My setup is a stock GSL-SE engine, stock injectors, stock manifold, no aux port actuators or sleeves, some sort of header (seriously, I don't know what it is), high flow cat, stock midpipe, and some sort of muffler. Stock coolant temp sender with no changes to the system (it's off by 10deg... big whoop) and a GM wire style IAT screwed into the BAC hose hole in the intake duct. No BAC or any of that other stuff.

My O2 sensor is dead so I am tuning scrictly by feel. Man this is neat.

 

Glad you're enjoying yourself.

Did you make sure you set up staged injection? Maybe at low revs it's injecting on both primary and secondary injectors...

Ken

 

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but don't GSL-SE engines only have primary injectors? All the ones that I have seen have a single 680cc injector per rotor.

 

'84 engines had 680cc, '85 had 720cc. Either way, yes, they're big and there is only one per rotor. (No primary/secondary, they are just there) I have them both running off of INJ1.

Biggest problems I had were that I had the PWM set to 35%. It didn't ever attempt to fire until I threw an ammeter across the injector fuse and saw that it was pulling very little current. That's when I saw the PWM, bumped it to 75%, and it kicked. THEN I discovered that the MAP was stuck at 100KPa. Turned out to be because the vacuum nipple I sourced from was plugged off internally...

With no BAC or other idle controls (including, no FIdle) I had to adjust the throttle stop screw up a quarter turn to get the idle high enough for the air bypass screw to have any effect. This may have been screwed around with by a previous owner, I remember the car it used to be in and he was having idle trouble. Idles solid at 1000rpm, 40ish KPa, at 180-190degF indicated coolant temp.

The MS trigger is the tach output of my MSD. Rock solid. MSD input is the MSD's crank trigger wires connected directly to the leading pickup coil in the distributor. The trailing ignition is completely OEM at this point and is being used to control the tach.

The fuel pump is powered by the OEM fuel cut wiring. On carbureted RX-7s, not sure about later or EFI models, the fuel pump is powered up by a normally-closed relay called the fuel cut relay. When the ECU sees the engine *not* running, it grounds the wire. I simply recycled the A/C relay from under the hood, cutting the wiring harness off about 3 inches from the relay, added spade terminals, and plugged those in to the fuel cut relay connector. Now the relay works like you'd expect and the MS controls it through the factory wiring harness.

 

Ahh, I missed that you were running a 1st gen.

sounds like you're figuring out what's going on pretty well on your own though.

Ken

 

I missed this...

Connect the MS box to everything but leave the ignition input (pin 24) disconnected.

With the system powered up, tap the ignition input wire against the positive battery terminal. If you can't see the front of the Megasquirt case, have someone tap for you. You should see the center LED flash for the first tap and then the LED closest to the serial cable connector should flash for every tap afterwards. (The center LED is the injector pulse, the other one is ignition trigger)

I worked out this way when I was making sure my box was good before installing.

 

Here's what I have worked up so far... accel enrichment and EGO are still disabled, but it starts and revs just fine. (Still need to work on cold-temp starting) It should be enough to get the car running up to operating temp cleanly. It's still untested/probably really rich in the over-2500 parts of the map.

 

thx peejay... i tried this b4 and the LEDS would blink so where from here? am i getting a crap signal? im running stock ignition.

 

I believe peejay is running fuel-only, so his settings are going to be different from yours.

I'll try to get a look at them this weekend.

Ken

 

im running fuel only as well.

 

dang 40kpa? I'm at like 85kpa at idel, maybe its the porting?

 

Ahh, good info to know then.

Ken

 

i can start the car running from the stock ECU and hook up just the tach wire for MS but doesnt show any signal. but if i do what peejay said with taping it on the 12v wire the LEDs blink