Hi everybody
I did install a MS2 V3.0 on a FC of one of my friend but it's difficult to start
It will make some re-sync when cranking

I have all the stock sensors

The car is fine when started, it's tuned but it's the starting the problem.

 

Increase the cranking PW, and increase fuel in the warmup wizard.

If you are getting resync with cranking, verify all of your grounds, make sure you have a 0.01uF capacitor across the CAS input of your LM1815 circuit, and make sure the CAS shield is grounded only on the ECU end.

 

Also check your cranking timing (and your timing in general). The rotary is somewhat sensitive where the cranking timing is concerned. I set it to 0 degrees on every rotary that I set up, and that works pretty well, but making sure the timing is correct while running may fix the problem too if you already have the cranking timing set to 0.

Ken

 

Thanks for your help
I will give it a try this week

I have another 13B running on haltech, you seem to know rotaries a lot so here's my question, i have some detonation, i did retard ignition timing a lot without effect, i did retard the trailling coil up to 14-18 degree at 14psi. I need to retard the trailing coil on boost, i'm right ?

I need to know some details about tuning the trailing coil, do you can give me some hints ?

Thanks
Fred

 

You want to make split as large on boost, so if you retard leading, you must retard trailing more.

The MS's trailing references leading, so if you retard leading on an MS, it'll automatically retard trailing as well.

Have you made sure you have your trailing coils wired right on the Haltech. One of the main causes of knock on a rotary that I've seen is having the trailing coils wired backwards (front rotor trailing on the rear rotor and rear rotor trailing coil on the front rotor) or having the coilsel and IGt-T signals backwards.

If fixing the split doesn't help you then make sure the trailing coils are firing at the right time.

Ken

 

Too lean or too rich can cause misfires. Are we talking full load knock or where?

 

The guy have them wired backward almost a year and it was knocking hard, i change them and at 6 psi don't have any detonation but when i boost 13 psi on fourth gear (high load) it detonate. On the lower gear, don't have this problem.

It cannot hurt more if i put the trailing at max (20degree) on high load ?

The AFR is fine in the 11:1 range

I will make some test tomorrow with the car and let you know

Thanks for your advice

 

For the knock issue at 13psi, he either needs more split or less timing. Make sure that leading is firing sooner than trailing (preferably by 10-15 degrees) and make sure that both have a sufficiently low amount of advance.

Ken

 

For the haltech one, i did advance my leading timing and it was a lot better but due to overheat problems, i had to stopped
I did disconect the trailling coil and detonation stopped right there so i knew my problem was there !!!!!!!!

For the MS one, the cap is there like the circuit, its just when starting, when running, the rpm is very stable, i did make a datalog if you can see something more with my msq attached

 

If you're getting bad RPM signal while cranking, then you have ground issues and need to clean them up and wire them like factory. Aaron Cake's site has a good reference for this.

You should also make sure you built your second trigger circuit properly.

Ken