New Rx7 Owner
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
when I stayed in Japan we had different octane and the highest here where I'm at is 93.
Lastly I plan on premixing but I'll dig thru the FAQ section as I'm sure those have popped up several times
#3
JDM Junkie
iTrader: (5)
The USA uses AKI vs RON in Japan as the measure for octane, meaning the "numbers" at the pump are lower but still suitable for your car. Use 91+ and you will be fine. HOWEVER this is assuming your car is stock.- check your ecu - if it's aftermarket I would get a tune to be safe.
Tom
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase!
The USA uses AKI vs RON in Japan as the measure for octane, meaning the "numbers" at the pump are lower but still suitable for your car. Use 91+ and you will be fine. HOWEVER this is assuming your car is stock.- check your ecu - if it's aftermarket I would get a tune to be safe.
Tom
The USA uses AKI vs RON in Japan as the measure for octane, meaning the "numbers" at the pump are lower but still suitable for your car. Use 91+ and you will be fine. HOWEVER this is assuming your car is stock.- check your ecu - if it's aftermarket I would get a tune to be safe.
Tom
it's nearly 100% stock with stock ECU as well.
#6
JDM Junkie
iTrader: (5)
Well in that case fill her up with 91+ and have fun!
I would however recommend taking the first few tanks of gas easy and not boosting hard. Just to make sure everything is running well and no issues develop. With it being an import you have to take into account that it has been sitting for a while and likely has not had a decent service recently - a lot of cars go to auction just before they need to pass their next road inspection. So be sure to change all your fluids and be aware your brakes may not be great.
Tom
I would however recommend taking the first few tanks of gas easy and not boosting hard. Just to make sure everything is running well and no issues develop. With it being an import you have to take into account that it has been sitting for a while and likely has not had a decent service recently - a lot of cars go to auction just before they need to pass their next road inspection. So be sure to change all your fluids and be aware your brakes may not be great.
Tom
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#12
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I drove it 3hrs from the place I picked it up from.
everything is perfectly fine as of so far with the exception:
5th gear has a little grind when going into sometimes but it just might be me since I haven't driven a stick in a such a long time.
I have a slight ticking noise coming from passenger rear, not sure if it's a bad CV joint or not.
will be looking into those issues shortly.
it was purchased thru a dealer but ai am looking into getting into the business.
everything is perfectly fine as of so far with the exception:
5th gear has a little grind when going into sometimes but it just might be me since I haven't driven a stick in a such a long time.
I have a slight ticking noise coming from passenger rear, not sure if it's a bad CV joint or not.
will be looking into those issues shortly.
it was purchased thru a dealer but ai am looking into getting into the business.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Pretty sure I'm gonna have to swap out the CV axle and I'll just end up doing them both because I get a loud clicking out of the rear passenger. No big deal but it will have to wait until I get back from overseas.
added some extra pics
Removing the rear spoiler eventually and putting on a roof spoiler. Nice and simple
Really want to swap out the front bumber
added some extra pics
Removing the rear spoiler eventually and putting on a roof spoiler. Nice and simple
Really want to swap out the front bumber
#15
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
Get tested
Further to cautions above you may want to get five tests done up front:
1. Have codes read by a JDM code reader . The car does not have a check engine light. The code reader can detect up to about 75 potential problems.
2. Get a "smoke test" of the air intake and vacuum lines.
3. Get a coolant system pressure test
4. Get compression test
5. get electrical system tested for shorts and/or ground faults.
These tests should not cost a lot in aggregate, but could save you considerable $$ before you start chasing problems around.
1. Have codes read by a JDM code reader . The car does not have a check engine light. The code reader can detect up to about 75 potential problems.
2. Get a "smoke test" of the air intake and vacuum lines.
3. Get a coolant system pressure test
4. Get compression test
5. get electrical system tested for shorts and/or ground faults.
These tests should not cost a lot in aggregate, but could save you considerable $$ before you start chasing problems around.
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Further to cautions above you may want to get five tests done up front:
1. Have codes read by a JDM code reader . The car does not have a check engine light. The code reader can detect up to about 75 potential problems.
2. Get a "smoke test" of the air intake and vacuum lines.
3. Get a coolant system pressure test
4. Get compression test
5. get electrical system tested for shorts and/or ground faults.
These tests should not cost a lot in aggregate, but could save you considerable $$ before you start chasing problems around.
1. Have codes read by a JDM code reader . The car does not have a check engine light. The code reader can detect up to about 75 potential problems.
2. Get a "smoke test" of the air intake and vacuum lines.
3. Get a coolant system pressure test
4. Get compression test
5. get electrical system tested for shorts and/or ground faults.
These tests should not cost a lot in aggregate, but could save you considerable $$ before you start chasing problems around.
loud clicking was a sticker the came off the rim and was hitting brake caliber
Last edited by Justin.K; 05-03-18 at 10:58 AM. Reason: Edit
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