New Rx-7 Owner
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Joined: Feb 2022
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From: Georgia (GA)
New Rx-7 Owner
Hey guys, I just recently bought a 1988 Rx-7 Convertible. I don't know much about cars, but I have always wanted an RX-7, and couldn't be happier about finally having one. It does need some work done to it as it was pretty beat up when I got it, and I've heard countless times that Rx-7's aren't good first time project cars but I got a pretty good deal on it and couldn't pass it up. I'm sure ill be looking for help on here constantly so I'm glad there's a place like this. Thanks in advance and looking forward to talk with you all.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 4
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From: Georgia (GA)
Car Update
Looks like a good base to work from. One thing I would suggest, both as a repair and preventative maintenance is addressing your grounds.
https://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Since extracting the original ground cable means un-taping the Front Harness, it's a good idea to address the Positive Cables too as they are likely in equally poor condition too. It is generally a good idea to "divorce" the 8awg Alternator Cable from the Fuse Box Input Cable. They were originally stapled together under the mountain of tape covering the harness. Cut the staple, separate the cables and crimp on a new lug/ring terminal for the Fuse Box Cable.
As for the Alternator Cable, I would personally plan for an alternator upgrade as 86-88 alternators aren't known for Mjolnir-like output. Retrofitting one from a FD (100 amps) or Ford Taurus (130 amps) are the most common choices, both of which require a larger output cable. 4awg is what I used on mine.
Battery Positive to Starter: 48"
Battery Negative to Chassis Ground: 24"
Chassis Ground to Starter: 24"
I'm not sure of the exact length required for Battery Positive to Alternator, but it's probably around 24-30", If in doubt, grab some string and measure, then add a little so you can route it nice and pretty.
4awg is sufficiently large for all of these cables, just follow Aaron Cake's guide and you'll be fine. Pre-made cables with lugs on them are fine, or you could make your own. Try calling some welding supply stores and ask what they charge for 4awg cable and terminal lugs, you might be pleasantly surprised.
Last, Marine Battery Terminals such as these will make life much easier as there are now 3 cables (Starter, Alternator, Fuse Box) going to the positive terminal:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
This style can be found almost anywhere for $5 or less. Even Lowes has them for $3.
https://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Since extracting the original ground cable means un-taping the Front Harness, it's a good idea to address the Positive Cables too as they are likely in equally poor condition too. It is generally a good idea to "divorce" the 8awg Alternator Cable from the Fuse Box Input Cable. They were originally stapled together under the mountain of tape covering the harness. Cut the staple, separate the cables and crimp on a new lug/ring terminal for the Fuse Box Cable.
As for the Alternator Cable, I would personally plan for an alternator upgrade as 86-88 alternators aren't known for Mjolnir-like output. Retrofitting one from a FD (100 amps) or Ford Taurus (130 amps) are the most common choices, both of which require a larger output cable. 4awg is what I used on mine.
Battery Positive to Starter: 48"
Battery Negative to Chassis Ground: 24"
Chassis Ground to Starter: 24"
I'm not sure of the exact length required for Battery Positive to Alternator, but it's probably around 24-30", If in doubt, grab some string and measure, then add a little so you can route it nice and pretty.
4awg is sufficiently large for all of these cables, just follow Aaron Cake's guide and you'll be fine. Pre-made cables with lugs on them are fine, or you could make your own. Try calling some welding supply stores and ask what they charge for 4awg cable and terminal lugs, you might be pleasantly surprised.
Last, Marine Battery Terminals such as these will make life much easier as there are now 3 cables (Starter, Alternator, Fuse Box) going to the positive terminal:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
This style can be found almost anywhere for $5 or less. Even Lowes has them for $3.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Georgia (GA)
Looks like a good base to work from. One thing I would suggest, both as a repair and preventative maintenance is addressing your grounds.
https://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Since extracting the original ground cable means un-taping the Front Harness, it's a good idea to address the Positive Cables too as they are likely in equally poor condition too. It is generally a good idea to "divorce" the 8awg Alternator Cable from the Fuse Box Input Cable. They were originally stapled together under the mountain of tape covering the harness. Cut the staple, separate the cables and crimp on a new lug/ring terminal for the Fuse Box Cable.
As for the Alternator Cable, I would personally plan for an alternator upgrade as 86-88 alternators aren't known for Mjolnir-like output. Retrofitting one from a FD (100 amps) or Ford Taurus (130 amps) are the most common choices, both of which require a larger output cable. 4awg is what I used on mine.
Battery Positive to Starter: 48"
Battery Negative to Chassis Ground: 24"
Chassis Ground to Starter: 24"
I'm not sure of the exact length required for Battery Positive to Alternator, but it's probably around 24-30", If in doubt, grab some string and measure, then add a little so you can route it nice and pretty.
4awg is sufficiently large for all of these cables, just follow Aaron Cake's guide and you'll be fine. Pre-made cables with lugs on them are fine, or you could make your own. Try calling some welding supply stores and ask what they charge for 4awg cable and terminal lugs, you might be pleasantly surprised.
Last, Marine Battery Terminals such as these will make life much easier as there are now 3 cables (Starter, Alternator, Fuse Box) going to the positive terminal:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
This style can be found almost anywhere for $5 or less. Even Lowes has them for $3.
https://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Since extracting the original ground cable means un-taping the Front Harness, it's a good idea to address the Positive Cables too as they are likely in equally poor condition too. It is generally a good idea to "divorce" the 8awg Alternator Cable from the Fuse Box Input Cable. They were originally stapled together under the mountain of tape covering the harness. Cut the staple, separate the cables and crimp on a new lug/ring terminal for the Fuse Box Cable.
As for the Alternator Cable, I would personally plan for an alternator upgrade as 86-88 alternators aren't known for Mjolnir-like output. Retrofitting one from a FD (100 amps) or Ford Taurus (130 amps) are the most common choices, both of which require a larger output cable. 4awg is what I used on mine.
Battery Positive to Starter: 48"
Battery Negative to Chassis Ground: 24"
Chassis Ground to Starter: 24"
I'm not sure of the exact length required for Battery Positive to Alternator, but it's probably around 24-30", If in doubt, grab some string and measure, then add a little so you can route it nice and pretty.
4awg is sufficiently large for all of these cables, just follow Aaron Cake's guide and you'll be fine. Pre-made cables with lugs on them are fine, or you could make your own. Try calling some welding supply stores and ask what they charge for 4awg cable and terminal lugs, you might be pleasantly surprised.
Last, Marine Battery Terminals such as these will make life much easier as there are now 3 cables (Starter, Alternator, Fuse Box) going to the positive terminal:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
This style can be found almost anywhere for $5 or less. Even Lowes has them for $3.
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Thank you for the info, I'll make plans to change out all my grounds, and the link you attached is awesome, it is very informative and even gives the location of each ground which will save me a bunch of time. Thanks again, this will be a great way to get me started, that will help a lot in the long run and im looking forward to getting the RX-7 up and running again.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
Nothing beats the originals when it comes to spelling out how the car works, where the tail lights are grounded, etc, in plain English. Well, unless the originals are in Japanese, Fox got those manuals from me
Looks like a good car to restore! Being the third owner, I'm hoping you don't find any hack work from a previous owner or someone attempting to fix something improperly. I'm unsure of that exhaust and rear "spoiler" but otherwise looks like it will be a great car! Will look forward to seeing updated pictures once you get the car cleaned up.
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