New Member from New Zealand
08-27-12, 06:26 AM
#1
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New Member from New Zealand
Hi Everyone,
I have been reading this forum for the last 4 years or so, while I was looking to buy an Rx7, and now while owning it. Threads here have solved so many of my issues, or given me insight into future potential problems and how to avoid them, that this has slowly evolved into my home page. I figured it's about time I joined and started passing on what I have learned and joined the community!
I am a design teacher from Puhoi, just north of Auckland, New Zealand.
My car is a Series 7 1996 FD3S in Silver, and is one of the very few left (around these parts anway) that is almost completely stock and in near-mint condition. I have done wheels, suspension, sway bars, and a cat-back exhaust. Otherwise 100% standard, and intending to keep it that way for the forseeable future.
Looking forward to joining the community here and seeing you all around.
- Michael Stewart (MiSt)
I have been reading this forum for the last 4 years or so, while I was looking to buy an Rx7, and now while owning it. Threads here have solved so many of my issues, or given me insight into future potential problems and how to avoid them, that this has slowly evolved into my home page. I figured it's about time I joined and started passing on what I have learned and joined the community!
I am a design teacher from Puhoi, just north of Auckland, New Zealand.
My car is a Series 7 1996 FD3S in Silver, and is one of the very few left (around these parts anway) that is almost completely stock and in near-mint condition. I have done wheels, suspension, sway bars, and a cat-back exhaust. Otherwise 100% standard, and intending to keep it that way for the forseeable future.
Looking forward to joining the community here and seeing you all around.
- Michael Stewart (MiSt)
08-29-12, 01:48 AM
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08-29-12, 09:49 PM
#7
Convict
kept my eye on Trade-me every day for any new 7's
i drove to Gisborne,viewed a White S8,came home empty handled (good 450kms in Rx8 drive
)drove to Hamilton twice , viewed a Blue and a Black S7
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08-29-12, 11:10 PM
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I was holding out for a S8 Rx7,i drove her up from Wellington last November (best 650kms i have driven)
kept my eye on Trade-me every day for any new 7's
i drove to Gisborne,viewed a White S8,came home empty handled (good 450kms in Rx8 drive )
drove to Hamilton twice , viewed a Blue and a Black S7
kept my eye on Trade-me every day for any new 7's
i drove to Gisborne,viewed a White S8,came home empty handled (good 450kms in Rx8 drive
)drove to Hamilton twice , viewed a Blue and a Black S7
I almost went out to Gisborne to view that white one too - it looked very clean also, but at the time it was more than I could afford (he was asking 18k or so if I recall correctly, and he seemed pretty reluctant to negotiate.
Funnily enough I ended up buying mine in Wellington also and drove it home, so I know exactly how you felt.
It's amazing how many thrashed, modified and damaged 7's there are out there.
08-30-12, 02:05 AM
#9
Convict
Well worth the effort.
I almost went out to Gisborne to view that white one too - it looked very clean also, but at the time it was more than I could afford (he was asking 18k or so if I recall correctly, and he seemed pretty reluctant to negotiate.
Funnily enough I ended up buying mine in Wellington also and drove it home, so I know exactly how you felt.
It's amazing how many thrashed, modified and damaged 7's there are out there.
I almost went out to Gisborne to view that white one too - it looked very clean also, but at the time it was more than I could afford (he was asking 18k or so if I recall correctly, and he seemed pretty reluctant to negotiate.
Funnily enough I ended up buying mine in Wellington also and drove it home, so I know exactly how you felt.
It's amazing how many thrashed, modified and damaged 7's there are out there.
he initially had it for $20k then $18k nothing less,then i think $17k
no nego on price he said,even before seeing the car
minor prob with my 7 at the mo though
she goes into LIMP mode after a shutdown & startup after a long drive
08-30-12, 02:29 AM
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Yup, its the same S8 in Gisborne we talking about
he initially had it for $20k then $18k nothing less,then i think $17k
no nego on price he said,even before seeing the car
minor prob with my 7 at the mo though
she goes into LIMP mode after a shutdown & startup after a long drive
he initially had it for $20k then $18k nothing less,then i think $17k
no nego on price he said,even before seeing the car
minor prob with my 7 at the mo though
she goes into LIMP mode after a shutdown & startup after a long drive
Just yesterday I solved my own limp-mode problem - though probably different to yours as mine was permanent until I fixed the problem.
The wires to the Oil Metering Pump were cut by the belts due to an intercooler hose popping off. An easy solution in the end, but bloody hard to find.
Pulling the ECU codes will give you a starting point for what to look for.
08-30-12, 02:44 AM
#11
Convict
Yeh that's the one. It was on TradeMe for a long time too.
Just yesterday I solved my own limp-mode problem - though probably different to yours as mine was permanent until I fixed the problem.
The wires to the Oil Metering Pump were cut by the belts due to an intercooler hose popping off. An easy solution in the end, but bloody hard to find.
Pulling the ECU codes will give you a starting point for what to look for.
Just yesterday I solved my own limp-mode problem - though probably different to yours as mine was permanent until I fixed the problem.
The wires to the Oil Metering Pump were cut by the belts due to an intercooler hose popping off. An easy solution in the end, but bloody hard to find.
Pulling the ECU codes will give you a starting point for what to look for.
been emailing GreenBros in Tauranga on advice on LIMP mode prob
they suggest i check ECU codes
one of the ways was with a LED test light ($30 from BNT)-will check this weekend
then give then a call on how to use LED test light
08-30-12, 06:36 PM
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You can make a test light for 20 cents with an LED and a resistor (see instructions below).
Otherwise it is possible to read them with a multi-meter by looking for spikes in voltage (instead of flashing lights).
You need to find the 'DIAGNOSTIC' connector box in your engine bay. It will be just forward of the passenger side strut, near the battery. It's a small black box.
You then need to bridge the 'TEN' and 'GND' plugs inside using a paper clip or short wire.
Finally you connect the test light or multi-meter to the adjacent pins and check how many times the light flashes (or the voltage spikes), which then gives you the Code.
You can find the codes and what they mean at:
Check Engine Light Codes, which is linked to from the FAQ for 3rd Gens on this site.
Keep in mind that the locations of the pins they post on that link didn't work for me, and I had to find them elsewhere (probably because the site deals with 93-95 cars mainly in the US).
There are 4 pins in the top row (2, a gap, then 2). There are 7 pins in the second row down.
I bridged the 3rd pin in the top row (the first of the right 2), with the far left on the second row. I then connected my tester to the 1st and 4th pins in the top row.
You can find an image of what to bridge/test at the link below.
Mazda Engines
Good luck.
-------------------------
How to make a diagnostic connector:
Step 1
Solder a 10K ohm resistor on to the positive (longer leg) of an LED. You need the 10K ohm resistor to limit the current draw from the vehicles diagnostic lines. The LED will still be bright enough to see flashing.
Step 2
Solder one wire onto the bottom of the resistor. Solder another wire WHICH IS SLIGHTLY SHORTER THAN THE FIRST WIRE onto the remaining LED leg. The Longer wire is your Positive (+) wire. You should now have something looking similar to the picture below. This basic LED tester will work perfectly well, and allow you to read the codes with the Manual CodeReader Instructions.
Otherwise it is possible to read them with a multi-meter by looking for spikes in voltage (instead of flashing lights).
You need to find the 'DIAGNOSTIC' connector box in your engine bay. It will be just forward of the passenger side strut, near the battery. It's a small black box.
You then need to bridge the 'TEN' and 'GND' plugs inside using a paper clip or short wire.
Finally you connect the test light or multi-meter to the adjacent pins and check how many times the light flashes (or the voltage spikes), which then gives you the Code.
You can find the codes and what they mean at:
Check Engine Light Codes, which is linked to from the FAQ for 3rd Gens on this site.
Keep in mind that the locations of the pins they post on that link didn't work for me, and I had to find them elsewhere (probably because the site deals with 93-95 cars mainly in the US).
There are 4 pins in the top row (2, a gap, then 2). There are 7 pins in the second row down.
I bridged the 3rd pin in the top row (the first of the right 2), with the far left on the second row. I then connected my tester to the 1st and 4th pins in the top row.
You can find an image of what to bridge/test at the link below.
Mazda Engines
Good luck.
-------------------------
How to make a diagnostic connector:
Step 1
Solder a 10K ohm resistor on to the positive (longer leg) of an LED. You need the 10K ohm resistor to limit the current draw from the vehicles diagnostic lines. The LED will still be bright enough to see flashing.
Step 2
Solder one wire onto the bottom of the resistor. Solder another wire WHICH IS SLIGHTLY SHORTER THAN THE FIRST WIRE onto the remaining LED leg. The Longer wire is your Positive (+) wire. You should now have something looking similar to the picture below. This basic LED tester will work perfectly well, and allow you to read the codes with the Manual CodeReader Instructions.
08-30-12, 07:17 PM
#13
Convict
thanks for the great info
the easy part is making the tester ,
the challenging part is making sure testing the right PIN in the DIAGNOSTIC box
will print out and have a closer read to familiarize the testing process
the easy part is making the tester ,
the challenging part is making sure testing the right PIN in the DIAGNOSTIC box
will print out and have a closer read to familiarize the testing process
10-13-12, 05:14 PM
#15
Convict
Seem to have the limp mode sorted...
built the tester, it was throwing up error 45 Solenoid valve - charge control
so when driving not in limp mode i only experienced boost at 6000rpm upwards
the primary turbo wasn't kicking in....
spoke to Green Brothers down in Tauranga Green Brothers Racing Ltd - Rotary Specialists
Booked the 7 in ,drove down one Saturday morning (2 hours)
they took out a dead on the Solenoid block
they also noticed the volt at the fuel pump was low (11.5volts) so they wired the + terminal of the fuel pump directly to the positive terminal of battery (with a fuse in-between)
this increased the voltage at the fuel pump to 12.5/13volts
ever since (2 weeks now) , haven't had the 7 in limp mode and can feel the primary turbo boost'n at low rpms
built the tester, it was throwing up error 45 Solenoid valve - charge control
so when driving not in limp mode i only experienced boost at 6000rpm upwards
the primary turbo wasn't kicking in....
spoke to Green Brothers down in Tauranga Green Brothers Racing Ltd - Rotary Specialists
Booked the 7 in ,drove down one Saturday morning (2 hours)
they took out a dead on the Solenoid block
they also noticed the volt at the fuel pump was low (11.5volts) so they wired the + terminal of the fuel pump directly to the positive terminal of battery (with a fuse in-between)
this increased the voltage at the fuel pump to 12.5/13volts
ever since (2 weeks now) , haven't had the 7 in limp mode and can feel the primary turbo boost'n at low rpms
10-15-12, 01:14 AM
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Nice! Glad to hear you sorted it.
I've heard only good things about Green Brothers too.
A good feeling when you can enjoy the 7 at its best again!
I've heard only good things about Green Brothers too.
A good feeling when you can enjoy the 7 at its best again!
10-16-12, 04:19 AM
#17
Convict
if you interested RX Cruise being organised for 28 October
http://m.facebook.com/home.php?refsr...ser=1499592089
http://m.facebook.com/home.php?refsr...ser=1499592089
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