Female racer/drifter :D
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
I should Abuse my Moderator status and Demand Pics of you and your car..but I won't do that............................today...cough...lo l!
Welcome to the forum!
I am gonna go where no other guy on here has ever gone!..you got any Single FRIENDS?.!!!
Welcome to the forum!
I am gonna go where no other guy on here has ever gone!..you got any Single FRIENDS?.!!!
You have two local rotary shops within a hour of you. Rotaryresurrection.com and addictedperformanceunltd.com
I don't take customer work anymore but those two shops could help you with any engine needs.
I don't take customer work anymore but those two shops could help you with any engine needs.
Is the engine you put in it a S4 or S5T2? Swapping a S5T2 engine into a S4 car seems to be a pain in the butt because of the stock N370 ECU's pinout being different from the N330/N333 (electronic OMP, no quick-spool actuator and a couple other things). FWIW, the S5's OMP is VERY expensive to replace with a brand new one if it fails (and puts the car into Limp Mode as a result).
If this happens to your car, my advice would be to put the ~$1500 in a Haltech or other suitable EMS and possibly convert to premixing. IMO, the S4 chassis is much easier to give a standalone than the S5 because they changed quite a few things in the S5's wiring diagram. I'm not too familiar with the S5, but checking the https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/ and downloading the wiring diagrams would answer any questions that would come up.
My 20B-REW S4 was surprisingly easy to retrofit with a Haltech PS2000 standalone EMS as everything that the Haltech would control was originally in the Emission Harness that came out with the old engine. The only thing that wasn't there was the wire for the Coolant Gauge Sender (rear iron, driver's side), but it wasn't too hard to integrate. With my swap, the original alternator wiring went with the old engine but it wasn't an issue since I'm using a 130A Taurus Alternator.
If you haven't already done this, the first modification you should do once the car is running is a FD Alternator. It is entirely bolt-on & plug&play in a S5, only needing a pulley such as #11480 from MAZDATRIX for Mazda RX7, RX8, Rotary Engine Parts and Accessories. This was the first modification I ever did and it made a world of difference.
If this happens to your car, my advice would be to put the ~$1500 in a Haltech or other suitable EMS and possibly convert to premixing. IMO, the S4 chassis is much easier to give a standalone than the S5 because they changed quite a few things in the S5's wiring diagram. I'm not too familiar with the S5, but checking the https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/ and downloading the wiring diagrams would answer any questions that would come up.
My 20B-REW S4 was surprisingly easy to retrofit with a Haltech PS2000 standalone EMS as everything that the Haltech would control was originally in the Emission Harness that came out with the old engine. The only thing that wasn't there was the wire for the Coolant Gauge Sender (rear iron, driver's side), but it wasn't too hard to integrate. With my swap, the original alternator wiring went with the old engine but it wasn't an issue since I'm using a 130A Taurus Alternator.
If you haven't already done this, the first modification you should do once the car is running is a FD Alternator. It is entirely bolt-on & plug&play in a S5, only needing a pulley such as #11480 from MAZDATRIX for Mazda RX7, RX8, Rotary Engine Parts and Accessories. This was the first modification I ever did and it made a world of difference.
Thread Starter
Mazda lover
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
Oh my! I'm surprised by the response of this thread.. I finally have a few pictures of my fc but she's not finished.. yet 
When I first picked her up
Andddd..... here's me :3
Yes, that is a rotary tattoo and a rotor and rotor housing in my bedroom :3
When I first picked her up
Andddd..... here's me :3
Yes, that is a rotary tattoo and a rotor and rotor housing in my bedroom :3
Last edited by Mazda.doll; Sep 30, 2012 at 12:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Mazda lover
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
Is the engine you put in it a S4 or S5T2? Swapping a S5T2 engine into a S4 car seems to be a pain in the butt because of the stock N370 ECU's pinout being different from the N330/N333 (electronic OMP, no quick-spool actuator and a couple other things). FWIW, the S5's OMP is VERY expensive to replace with a brand new one if it fails (and puts the car into Limp Mode as a result).
If this happens to your car, my advice would be to put the ~$1500 in a Haltech or other suitable EMS and possibly convert to premixing. IMO, the S4 chassis is much easier to give a standalone than the S5 because they changed quite a few things in the S5's wiring diagram. I'm not too familiar with the S5, but checking the https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/ and downloading the wiring diagrams would answer any questions that would come up.
My 20B-REW S4 was surprisingly easy to retrofit with a Haltech PS2000 standalone EMS as everything that the Haltech would control was originally in the Emission Harness that came out with the old engine. The only thing that wasn't there was the wire for the Coolant Gauge Sender (rear iron, driver's side), but it wasn't too hard to integrate. With my swap, the original alternator wiring went with the old engine but it wasn't an issue since I'm using a 130A Taurus Alternator.
If you haven't already done this, the first modification you should do once the car is running is a FD Alternator. It is entirely bolt-on & plug&play in a S5, only needing a pulley such as #11480 from MAZDATRIX for Mazda RX7, RX8, Rotary Engine Parts and Accessories. This was the first modification I ever did and it made a world of difference.
If this happens to your car, my advice would be to put the ~$1500 in a Haltech or other suitable EMS and possibly convert to premixing. IMO, the S4 chassis is much easier to give a standalone than the S5 because they changed quite a few things in the S5's wiring diagram. I'm not too familiar with the S5, but checking the https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/ and downloading the wiring diagrams would answer any questions that would come up.
My 20B-REW S4 was surprisingly easy to retrofit with a Haltech PS2000 standalone EMS as everything that the Haltech would control was originally in the Emission Harness that came out with the old engine. The only thing that wasn't there was the wire for the Coolant Gauge Sender (rear iron, driver's side), but it wasn't too hard to integrate. With my swap, the original alternator wiring went with the old engine but it wasn't an issue since I'm using a 130A Taurus Alternator.
If you haven't already done this, the first modification you should do once the car is running is a FD Alternator. It is entirely bolt-on & plug&play in a S5, only needing a pulley such as #11480 from MAZDATRIX for Mazda RX7, RX8, Rotary Engine Parts and Accessories. This was the first modification I ever did and it made a world of difference.
I want to build my own 20b, any suggestions or helper threads?
The other one, I haven't heard of, but I shall check it out (: Thank you!!
I made sure I went with a s4 t2 to make it easier on me lol
I want to build my own 20b, any suggestions or helper threads?
I have heard of Rotary Resurrection, it's about a hour away from me and I've been up there a few times for a few things (: He is a great guy.
The other one, I haven't heard of, but I shall check it out (: Thank you!!
I want to build my own 20b, any suggestions or helper threads?
I have heard of Rotary Resurrection, it's about a hour away from me and I've been up there a few times for a few things (: He is a great guy.
The other one, I haven't heard of, but I shall check it out (: Thank you!!
There are a few people who offer 20B engines here, but you REALLY need to be careful who you deal with. One well-known forum vendor recently scammed two members out of $2200 and $2100 each on engines for their FDs. Details are in the Feedback Section. Two shops I can recommend getting a 20B from are Banzai Racing (Banzai Racing Home Page) and Defined Autoworks (GTORX7. is their username here). For parts such as gaskets, I generally go through Atkins Rotary (Atkins Rotary - Rx7 | Rx8 | Mazda | Rotary | Engine | Parts). Kevin Landers (Rotary Resurrection) is another great source for parts that I've had consistently good results with (including pulling a couple ebay auctions for me, major props there), although he doesn't stock 20B parts that I am aware of.