Cheers!

I just installed my sony aftermarket deck... it has 4x40 output.

I'm also broke now, so i'm using the factory speakers for now...

My question is how can i use the door woofers with my deck. I bought a wiring harness adapter and solder + heatshrinked it to the sony harness.

I went to try everything out but only the speakers under the dash come on and the rear strut speakers...

I did find the factory door speaker amplifer under the dash near the clutch pedal, is there anyway to use this and hte door woofers?

I don't want to overstress the deck by trying to run the door speakers + the dash speakers in parallel on the 2 front channels.

THanks

the car btw is a 89 TurboII, which had the EQ and the tape deck in it.

Cheers!

no help eh guys? thats ok... i tink i'll just chuck the amp and run the door woofers in parallel with the dash speakers...

(i'm expecting icemark to chime in here, and tell me... NO DON"T DO THAT!")

icemark?

Icemark

Okay... no don't do that...

Sorry I am slow too reply. I have been out of town and didn't take a laptop with me...

anyway, there is a 6 pin DIN plug behind the stock radio that is the input to the amp. Its pretty easy to go down to your local radio shack or industrial/computer/electronics parts liquidators and buy the plug and a RCA cable pair and solder them together.

Then you can plug the RCA ends into any aftermarket radio and have the stock sub amp still work.

I'll try and post the diagram on how to solder it in the next day or so, but if I forget, PM me to remind me.

But, if you really need to wire both the dash and door speakers together, get a 150 MFD bypolar (or non polar) capacitor for each dash speaker (Radio shack even has them on-line for a couple of bucks each) and put them in series on each dash speaker, then you can wire the door speakers parallel.

The cap will block the lower freqs from going into the dash speakers, and won't stress the deck as much.

Cheers!

icemark,

ok i just went out into the parking lot during work and took a gander.

i see the 6 pin plug.... 4 of the wires i know are for positive and negetive for the rear speakers and 2 i'm guessing is the signal for teh factory amp.

the plug has 6 wires. 4 blue and 2 brown... sorry i'll get into details when i take a closer look at home.

i got a harness adapter from a store that utilizes only 4 of the leads on that 6 Pin adapter... so i'm assuming the 2 that are not used is for sending a signal to the amp right?

so i just need to figure out which is neg and which is positive, splice into the line with RCA plugs and just plug the RCA plugs into the amp out for my deck.

I have 3 amp outs on my deck. front, back, and sub, which one should i use? i'm leaning on using the front, is that a correct move?

Cheers!

Icemark,

Ok thinking about this again... there are 2 wires left on the 6 pin plug.... the factory harness has 2 plugs btw... i have a 89 or newer FC.

so with 2 wires left on the plug, how is the the signal sent to the amp. the amp has 2 channels... (2 door speakers) so 2 wires means only 1 channel??

confused, ebcause it looking at the fsm it looks like the amp is tied in parallel with the dash speakers... and there is an a connection (L/B) from the I-07 connector to the I-08 connector of the door woofer.

Cheers!

an interesting note... that door woofer amplifer is made my matshushista (which is the japanese brand of panasonic)

i have hte type 3 audio system according to the FSM

Icemark

Hmmm... I have only seen Pioneer door amps in FCs... anyway from top to bottom clock wise, here are the pins... with the bottom being closeset to the notch on the metal plug sheild:

3
2 4
6
1 5

Pin 1 = Right + signal
Pin 2 = Amp Turn on + signal
Pin 3 = Left + signal
Pin 4 = Right - signal
Pin 5 = Left - signal
Pin 6 = Ground

The funny thing is that both pin 2 (the amp turn on 12V+ in) and pin 6 (ground) have to be hooked up for the Pioneer versions of the amp to power up (which is very unusual in the aftermarket world) and gain seems to be the typical 500MA found on most lower and mid-level aftermarket radios.

Cheers!

Icemark,

Sorry, that setup doesn't resemble the setup for the stock stereo. Are you sure that isn't for 88 or older cars... because my is a 89 or newer

anyhow i've attached the following pics.

Cheers!

and this one.

Cheers!

from what i can tell is that the matshushista amp needs 12V. THere is suppose to be 12 volts at connection L/W of I-08 Door woofer amplifer.

i checked that... when the key is at ACC, there is 12 volts.

Cheers!

ok after checking the harness adapter + pigtails i got from canadian tire (sorta like pepboys) the connector that plugs into the I-06 connector...

the picture below shows the pins not utilized on the I-06 connector by the canadian tire harness adapter



I then cross referenced this with the back of the stock radio+cassette, and the stock radio has a pin for BR/R coming out...

so what i'm saying is that i'm not utilizing the BR/R pin, the aftermarket harness adapter does not utilize this pin, and this pin goes from I-06 (audio) to I-08 (door woofer).

so Icemark, or anyone else... can you tell me what signal/voltage etc is at this BR/R pin? my stock stereo is fried... it won't even turn on so i can't double check it with my.

Thanks for your paitence.

Icemark

Ah yes I was using the 88 info...

On the 89+ I have the brown/Red as amp turn on. So it should have 12+ whenever the stereo is on, to turn on the stock door amp

Cheers!

hrm... crap-0-la then... i don't think the aftermarket deck amp remote turn on uses 12 volts... i'll double check when i get home tonight... but it does say, max 0.3A on the amp remote turn on for the aftermarket deck.

maybe i can get a relay, have the amp turnon going to the relay, and use the relay to get 12v from an ACC switched source.

Cheers!

ok thikning about this again...

Icemark, are you certain 12V exist at BR/R lead? becuase the door woofer amplifer is already getting 12V ACC switched from L/W pin.

i wish i could check myself but my stock stereo no longer works at all.

Icemark

I'll check tonight for you

Cheers!

thanks alot

Cheers!

btw here is what the door amp looks like.

the panasonic one.

Cheers!

Ice,

i don't mean to be an ******* or anything... but i kinda still need some help... i still can't figure out what BR/R lead does... or what signal it gives/voltage or anything... i'm hoping it could be the remote amp turn on.... and i can use my sony deck's amp remote turn on for this.

Cheers!

Can anyone else chim in on this little discussion? still hesitant to just put the amp remote out of the deck into lead BR/R and see what happens... next thing iknow with my luck every single wire will be toast in my car

Icemark

Sorry, I haven't been checking the interior/audio forum that often.

Anyway, I have a couple of conflicting things, It looks like both the Lightblue/Black and the Brn/red are common to the decks, indicating turn on. But according to the shop manual the Brn/red feeds back to the deck, suggesting a ground.

So I guess you are gonna have to try and power it up.

Wire it all up leaving the two wires off and see what happens. If it works your set. If it doesn't, try powering the Ltblue/Black, and see it that works.

If that doesn't, then the next test would be to check for voltage on the Brn/Red when the Ltblue/Black is hooked up.

Cheers!

ok made a discovery!!!!!

I connected BR/R to amp remote turn on of my deck

it worked... L/B does nothing... atleast i intially tried grounding it.

The FC door amp chassis/case must be grounded. Very very imporatnt.

anyhow... got sound.

SOUNDS LIKE ****.
the door speakers are distorting like mad.
BUZZ BUZZ BUZZ BUZZ...

hrm...

ok so then i tried turn off the LOUD feature on my sony deck.. better...

sitll distortion...

i think the out put of the deck is too high.

the FC stock clarion deck must be very small... maybe 25 watts per channel, with 4 channels.

the dash speakers are rated at 25 watts i know...

i want to take apart the door to see what the door speakers are rated at but i need the car to drive to work tommorrow and don't want to do this into the wee hours of the night trying to put the door back together

i will post again with my result tommorrow night around.

What i'm pondering now is taking the front amp out signal off my deck by using a RCA cable, cutting the other end off...

the door speaker amplifer gets its signal by splicing into the front dash speakers ... if i cut the leads going into the FC door amp... and splice in the RCA leads which contain the un amplified signal it might work...

i'll keep u posted.

ICEMARK! THANK U FOR ALL YOUR HELP. I REALLY APPRECIATE IT!!!!

Icemark

yeah the stock decks don't have much output so any stock amps tend to be over driven very easy. Might be easier just to wire past it, using that cap I mentioned earlier or try only hooking up the + speaker output from the deck to the stock amp input, instead of both positive and neg sides.

Or running off the RCA outputs to the stock door amps speaker inputs if you have a 4 volt RCAout on that sony deck.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Basically you should have just bypassed the amp to start with. I try to never use factory amps when I install stereos. Only factory amps I use are the Bose ones if they work, cause with 1 ohm speakers in Bose cars you kinda forced too And yes Im a professional car installer too

BTW: i thought that the input to the amp via the Din cord is low level not high level You are probally feeding 25X's the input to the amp than it was designed to have max

Icemark

actually we get lucky with our '88s, the factory sub/door amp input is low level (500ma) input, but for the later 'vert models it jumps up to the high level 6 volt AC input.

Cheers!

update,

anyhow i tried running off the sony deck RCA output... and yes it does have a 4V output...

still sounded like crap... so right now i just pulled that small amp out... i haven't wired up the speakers yet... i will try to find the cap and make a basic crossover.

this is just to tie me back until have money for nicer things