so I got a s4 base and all I got are crappy 4incher up in the dash.

I was wondering if anyone figured out a good way to mount a 6.5 some were in the doors?

 

I am keeping an eye on this thread, since I am in same boat with you. I have yet to peel the door cards off my car to see if the convert door mounted factory speaker holes are somewhat there, and just covered. But, I did come across a thread where a guy custom mounted some speakers in his (he had to cut some of door panel, not my cup of tea). If I find that link, I'll forward to you to see. Cheers!

 

The S4 can take a 5.25" in the space above the armrest.

 

mine doesn't have a spot for that.

 

Getting a custom door mounted speaker in that location below arm rest should be pretty simple and straight forward- using door cubby. That was going to be my option if there wasn't a factory hole behind card. The space seems deep and large enough to hold two 5.25 or 5.5 comfortably - sub shops here do those at $100 per door.

 

Maybe this will give you a better idea:

 

I might do that along with a 6.5 near the kick panel.

 

I put 5x7's in the dash.along with the 4inch..lol!
One under the steering column and one under the glove box,where the old speaker grill is.
2-8's in the shock towers and a set of 6x9's in the rear bins.

 

got any pics?

 

Couldn't you just swap an s5 door panel on? Those are the ones with factory speakers in the door right?

 

I'm a certified installer and if you want good sound and staging in your rx7 you have to build some kick panels. There is enough room to get a set of 6 1/2 in component up there or a good set off coaxials. I used a set of mb quart 8in. coaxials (they will fit) with electronic crossover one kicker solo dual 2 ohm coils and 2 phoenix gold mps-2240's (24)watts per channel stable to 1/4 ohm and won 13 iasca events in the 0-100 sound quality class with 3 speakers. Hit 141.2 db with 1 sub in a s5. More is not always better. Don't waste your time on door speakers.

 

Sorry Clayton I do not have pics right now.I've been trying to get the car tuned for a meet.
I just installed a 6200 Watt amp. (ya,not an error!)

Pink Floyd sounds awesome!

 

Kick panels are definitely the best way. Pretty easy to do too, fiber glass is just like paper mache but more toxic. I've got 6.75 audison components each getting 150w rms in my doors and nothing else in the car. Just remeber to measure more than once to check leg clearance. I'll post pics once I get home.

 

Are you building an SPL car or sound quality car? Your going to need a 190 amp alternator and extra battery minimum to handle a true 6200 RMS amp. Or your going to fry the stock alternator just saying. Your power wire for your amp should be 0 gauge. I've had 13 rx7's and competed with both 1st and 2nd gens. If your competing in sq you need to get the front speakers as far forward as you can. I've judged cars and it should sound like they are playing on the hood of your car. The bass should sound like it's coming for the front like at a real concert. Your sub should be used for real fill. First gens just a sub in the back. Second gens don't use highs in rear towers it will mess up your front imaging. The way the sound rolls off in a car you want to form a standing wave across your dash. Dash mats aren't pretty but the system I qualified for the Iasca finals I had one made just for contest. I have a linear x PCrta and have spent hours building door pods and kickpanel designs and testing them. Kick panels win.....you need a true 31 band 1/3 octave EQ to truly tune a system and win. 24db slope crossovers between midbass and tweeter electronicaly preferably. Pull your carpet out and deading the car every 3db you can drop the noise floor of the car is like doubling the power of your system. You have to double power and cone space to go up 3db. Deading material way cheaper. Use something where you have a minimum of 4volts going through you rca's the lower you can run your gains on your amp the cleaner the sound.
If there is anything else I can help with I'd be glad to.
Damn you guys I wasn't going to put a nice system in my vert but now you got me thinking!

 

Pics of my doors in the process of being reupholstered. Far from perfect but they work.

 

Looks like a good start. Buy some foam speaker baffles (crutchfield or eBay) to put behind the speaker. Will give you more mid bass. Keep your tweetet close to your midbass so the crossover can work as designed and blend the components. Nice design especially if you have a clutch. Kickpanels are tricky with a clutch pedal. I had to remove the footrest in mine to get speakers angled right.

 

I had to lose my dead pedal too. SUKS2BU, did you see my post a few threads down from this one ? I squeezed a Adire Extremis 6.4 in my FD kick panels.

 

Do you have any pictures of your setups? Would definitely love to see!

 

I will do some digging and find some pics

 

may not be pertinent but I put FOUR of these in the rear Bins.(2 in each bin)
Cadence Comp 6x9's.
Wut?....(effin Loud!).Oh..not for anyone looking to shave weight off the car..they weigh 50 Pounds.

 

Why would you want to add dual battery an new alternator set-up? That is a lot o money and weight to add to what essentially is a sport car. In my comp car (Jeep Cherokee) I am using a Rockford 10 farad cap and optima yellow top, running over 2500wtts, and no voltage drop at all. The sound deadener I agree with, that's always a good idea for comfort, sound quality, and easy to hide.
My RX is getting a treatment with Phoenix Gold 6x9 with MB Quart 4" in panels over each bin. DynaMat on bare floor interior, and still researching front stage.
The previous post was correct with his initial statement- build the car stereo for purpose (if you care). I am racing my car, so keeping weight low is key, and having items that are removable with minimum effort.
To me, quality products have been the most important thing. Stereos can be an expensive big boy toy. Good luck