coneklr

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone tried to remove the stock sound deadening material? Is there a magical trick to do it? Is the metal underneath painted? I was thinking I would remove the stock material and lay down Second Skin Dampening material and not add very much weight.

Rx7@Rocketship.com

Dry Ice does the trick I understand.

Saten

did you search?

jdmdavey

iTrader: (3)

Crush up dry ice.. Place it in a section on the floor. Use a hammer to tap the floor and the sound deadener will just crack, split and come off. Just takes some patience. Use your vacuum and your all set. Did it in my 240sx, took about 4-5 hours with also removing the adhesive. I lost around 40lbs removing it all. So overall I felt it was worth it. Then you should paint to match.

coneklr

iTrader: (2)

Thanks everyone. I must not have searched for the correct terms. I was over at Second Skin Audio forums and found this thread referring to the removal of other after market sound deadening material (not oem).

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/forum...ead.php?t=2486

They later explain that it is normal to leave the OEM stuff there because there isn't very much of it and it is difficult to remove. But it is not optimal.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I don't think there is much of that stuff in an FD. I haven't looked behind the dash yet, but there is nothing under the seats, bins or trunk.

coneklr

iTrader: (2)

gracer7-rx7, you have the R1 model. Base and Touring have sound dampening in the trunk and under the bins among other places.

Bunchies

iTrader: (1)

i stripped out the entire interior and went to town with 20 lb of dry ice. Took HOURS, but it's sorta fun i guess. I've dropped my car to 2700lb, so i'm happy.

VacavilleFC

WTF hours? use an air compressor and a air chisel on a cold day should take about an hour,

blue 88

the dry ice is probably the best method and it will basically peel up. it is really fun to after a couple of beers

micah

So.. I just did this... and I had started with a chisel/hammer... got half of the tunnel done then after sweating gallons inside that car, I decided to go buy some damn dry ice.

Just would like to add another success story for dry ice.

Dry ice made it SO easy, it made a dreadful job into an almost fun one. Chunks that were coming off in 1" chunks were now coming off in large 1' sheets. With 15lbs of dry ice (5 blocks), I finished the drivers side front, passenger side front, one of the storage bins, and most of the tranny tunnel.. All in under an hour too.

Now I just need to go buy another 20lbs or so of it so I can do the vertical areas... those are the bitches. Just patience and thick gloves for those....

Angel1992

dose anyone have any experience with heat to remove the sound deadening

micah

Definitely do not use heat. Turns it into a gooey mess. Use dry ice and a rubber mallet. Works like a champ.

Bust the dry ice into dust and hold it in place over the stuff... give it a second and you'll HEAR it start to get brittle and crack itself apart.. Then just smash the stuff with the rubber mallet and it'll break off in hard chunks/plates. IMHO, no better way.


--Micah

micah

Hahahaa! Just realized I answered this right before he asked...... 5 YEARS AGO. Did you not read the post?

moritsune

iTrader: (3)

I used dry ice and an air chisel after a full bag of dry ice and hammer and chisel got the drivers side floor panel done. Swapped to the air and finished the car so much faster. Just make sure to use eye protection because that stuff flies EVERYWHERE. Also tried heat and that just turns it into the tar stuff they patch asphalt with :P

Your knuckles will love you for using an air tool i promise.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Buy 20 air dusters turn them upside. Forget everything else you've read.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Pretty much, you just spray the air dusters upside down on the sound deadending in short bursts, then grab a chizzle and hammer and tap the edges. The tar material will pop off in huge flakes but you must move fast.

Dry Ice sucks, heat sucks, all the above methods pale in comparison to freezing with air duster. Only thing that might beat the duster is co2 tank or nitrous oxide.

mprotaryhead

Dry ice world best on the floor and any other flat surfaces but the duster cans work really good on vertical areas because u don't have to hold the dry ice.

moritsune

iTrader: (3)

Gloves ftw

rogrx7

iTrader: (11)

Chemtronics ES1050: Freez-It® Freeze Spray, Circuit Chiller, 10 oz Aerosol

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

I just did this **** by hand chisel,hammer, wide flat head screwdriver. Took it to town on it and it took me 2 days to get it all off I even took the dash out to get the hard to read areas under it. Came out good. No dry ice. However three were some very soft spots that were a bitch cuz of all the silicon that was added.