Power locks
Power locks
Can anyone tell me how to install an actuator for power door lock on the drivers side? I have the actuator but I can't seem to figure out how to connect it to the lock mechanism. Any suggestions?
I haven't purchased mine yet, but if this ends up being the easier route, I would rather just do that.
No pics, but it just replaces the stock door latch. The hardest part was maneuvering the rods that attach to the outer door handle. I got lucky and found someone in the US that had ne he was looking to get rid of. There was a guy in LA that makes regular trips to Japan and he was willing to bring one back for me. I'll see if I can track down his user name.
I found out the factory actuator for the left side is available...for $230! If anyone is interested it's at WWW.japanparts.com , part number 58-310Z. Still looking for the guy who was going to get this for me...or you could just go to the Far East Forum and see if someone there will hook you up.
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So technically, I can buy a left hand door handle and actuator from a RHD RX-7 (their passenger door), and just finagle the rods from the outside door handle and it should work? How it is wired? I'm needing one so I can install a keyless entry system into my car.
more door lock info
No, you want the latch, NOT the handle. The latch is the part that bolts inside the door and engages with the striker when you close the door. It holds the door closed when engaged.
Once you have that, it really is that simple. Remove the old one, install the new one. It even uses the same screws
For my explanation of wiring, refer to diagram K-2 of the FSM.
For the new actuator I ran a pair of wires to the door lock timer (K2), which is really just a glorified pair of relays. It only has one set of outputs, for the passenger door. I just wired the driver door actuator in parallel by tapping into the Green and the Orange wires on the relay connector (K2-01). It works fine that way, but if you want the door locks to be separate you’ll have to add a pair of relays (or another Mazda Door-lock timer) for the drivers side. I don’t think the door-lock timer is available from Mazda, but you might be able to find one used. I bought 3 and all were bad. Turns out they are transistor driven relays and the transistors fail, but I figured out a way to just bypass the transistors and they work fine.
Another thing you might be interested in...when you remove the original door latch there will be an electrical connector that does not exist on the new latch/actuator. This is for a micro-switch on the latch that engages the automatic lock/unlock for the passenger door. Without this the passenger door will no longer lock/unlock when you use the key to lock/unlock the driver door, but that’s not a problem since your alarm or keyless entry will now handle this function. I used this to add a SPDT rocker switch so I can lock/unlock my doors from inside the car without using the alarm. If you trace the wires for the old latch they end up at connector J4-08 on the driver side door. This is where the switch will connect. To do this I cut the harness off of the old latch. I then connected BLACK wire to the center of the rocker switch, the G/Y wire to one side of the momentary switch and the G/R to the other side of the momentary switch. I mounted the switch inside my map pocket. When I need to remove my door panel the switch just unplugs like all the rest of the connectors.
Hope this helps.
Once you have that, it really is that simple. Remove the old one, install the new one. It even uses the same screws
For my explanation of wiring, refer to diagram K-2 of the FSM.
For the new actuator I ran a pair of wires to the door lock timer (K2), which is really just a glorified pair of relays. It only has one set of outputs, for the passenger door. I just wired the driver door actuator in parallel by tapping into the Green and the Orange wires on the relay connector (K2-01). It works fine that way, but if you want the door locks to be separate you’ll have to add a pair of relays (or another Mazda Door-lock timer) for the drivers side. I don’t think the door-lock timer is available from Mazda, but you might be able to find one used. I bought 3 and all were bad. Turns out they are transistor driven relays and the transistors fail, but I figured out a way to just bypass the transistors and they work fine.
Another thing you might be interested in...when you remove the original door latch there will be an electrical connector that does not exist on the new latch/actuator. This is for a micro-switch on the latch that engages the automatic lock/unlock for the passenger door. Without this the passenger door will no longer lock/unlock when you use the key to lock/unlock the driver door, but that’s not a problem since your alarm or keyless entry will now handle this function. I used this to add a SPDT rocker switch so I can lock/unlock my doors from inside the car without using the alarm. If you trace the wires for the old latch they end up at connector J4-08 on the driver side door. This is where the switch will connect. To do this I cut the harness off of the old latch. I then connected BLACK wire to the center of the rocker switch, the G/Y wire to one side of the momentary switch and the G/R to the other side of the momentary switch. I mounted the switch inside my map pocket. When I need to remove my door panel the switch just unplugs like all the rest of the connectors.
Hope this helps.
No, you want the latch, NOT the handle. The latch is the part that bolts inside the door and engages with the striker when you close the door. It holds the door closed when engaged.
Once you have that, it really is that simple. Remove the old one, install the new one. It even uses the same screws
For my explanation of wiring, refer to diagram K-2 of the FSM.
For the new actuator I ran a pair of wires to the door lock timer (K2), which is really just a glorified pair of relays. It only has one set of outputs, for the passenger door. I just wired the driver door actuator in parallel by tapping into the Green and the Orange wires on the relay connector (K2-01). It works fine that way, but if you want the door locks to be separate you’ll have to add a pair of relays (or another Mazda Door-lock timer) for the drivers side. I don’t think the door-lock timer is available from Mazda, but you might be able to find one used. I bought 3 and all were bad. Turns out they are transistor driven relays and the transistors fail, but I figured out a way to just bypass the transistors and they work fine.
Another thing you might be interested in...when you remove the original door latch there will be an electrical connector that does not exist on the new latch/actuator. This is for a micro-switch on the latch that engages the automatic lock/unlock for the passenger door. Without this the passenger door will no longer lock/unlock when you use the key to lock/unlock the driver door, but that’s not a problem since your alarm or keyless entry will now handle this function. I used this to add a SPDT rocker switch so I can lock/unlock my doors from inside the car without using the alarm. If you trace the wires for the old latch they end up at connector J4-08 on the driver side door. This is where the switch will connect. To do this I cut the harness off of the old latch. I then connected BLACK wire to the center of the rocker switch, the G/Y wire to one side of the momentary switch and the G/R to the other side of the momentary switch. I mounted the switch inside my map pocket. When I need to remove my door panel the switch just unplugs like all the rest of the connectors.
Hope this helps.
Once you have that, it really is that simple. Remove the old one, install the new one. It even uses the same screws
For my explanation of wiring, refer to diagram K-2 of the FSM.
For the new actuator I ran a pair of wires to the door lock timer (K2), which is really just a glorified pair of relays. It only has one set of outputs, for the passenger door. I just wired the driver door actuator in parallel by tapping into the Green and the Orange wires on the relay connector (K2-01). It works fine that way, but if you want the door locks to be separate you’ll have to add a pair of relays (or another Mazda Door-lock timer) for the drivers side. I don’t think the door-lock timer is available from Mazda, but you might be able to find one used. I bought 3 and all were bad. Turns out they are transistor driven relays and the transistors fail, but I figured out a way to just bypass the transistors and they work fine.
Another thing you might be interested in...when you remove the original door latch there will be an electrical connector that does not exist on the new latch/actuator. This is for a micro-switch on the latch that engages the automatic lock/unlock for the passenger door. Without this the passenger door will no longer lock/unlock when you use the key to lock/unlock the driver door, but that’s not a problem since your alarm or keyless entry will now handle this function. I used this to add a SPDT rocker switch so I can lock/unlock my doors from inside the car without using the alarm. If you trace the wires for the old latch they end up at connector J4-08 on the driver side door. This is where the switch will connect. To do this I cut the harness off of the old latch. I then connected BLACK wire to the center of the rocker switch, the G/Y wire to one side of the momentary switch and the G/R to the other side of the momentary switch. I mounted the switch inside my map pocket. When I need to remove my door panel the switch just unplugs like all the rest of the connectors.
Hope this helps.
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