Powder coating question: "near chrome" finish?
#1
Super Snuggles
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Powder coating question: "near chrome" finish?
I just got some powder coating done (rear subframe, IRS cradle, engine cradle, etc.) and wanted to get some more parts (intake, engine cover, door sill plates, strut tower bar) done by the same place. However, they don't have a chrome-like or polished aluminum appearing finish.
They've got every other color under the sun, 42 different silver metallics (just kidding), but nothing that looks like chrome or polished aluminum. The best they said they could do for me would be to clear powder coat the polished aluminum.
Some of the aluminum pieces have tiny scratches which are unavoidable on a newly polished part that's been cleaned with a cotton towel, but the powder coat would fill that in. However, some haven't been polished, and some aren't even aluminum. I want low maintenance on these parts, so all I want is a finish that I've heard called "near chrome" that looks like polished aluminum, or close enough.
I know it exists, because I seem to get an Eastwood Company catalog every 10 minutes or so in the mail, and they have a chrome-like powder coat which they then recommend using a clear or translucent coating over the top. I figured I could just buy the powder myself and take it to the shop to apply, but I wanted to be sure I was getting the right stuff. There are very few examples of actual colors in the Eastwood catalog. It's mostly just "drawings" representing various colors.
I don't think I've ever seen anyone with parts done with the Eastwood "chrome" finish, but I have seen some parts done by people at home with a spare oven that looked pretty good and nearly polished. Anyone have suggestions for the best powder to buy for a finish of this type?
Thanks!
They've got every other color under the sun, 42 different silver metallics (just kidding), but nothing that looks like chrome or polished aluminum. The best they said they could do for me would be to clear powder coat the polished aluminum.
Some of the aluminum pieces have tiny scratches which are unavoidable on a newly polished part that's been cleaned with a cotton towel, but the powder coat would fill that in. However, some haven't been polished, and some aren't even aluminum. I want low maintenance on these parts, so all I want is a finish that I've heard called "near chrome" that looks like polished aluminum, or close enough.
I know it exists, because I seem to get an Eastwood Company catalog every 10 minutes or so in the mail, and they have a chrome-like powder coat which they then recommend using a clear or translucent coating over the top. I figured I could just buy the powder myself and take it to the shop to apply, but I wanted to be sure I was getting the right stuff. There are very few examples of actual colors in the Eastwood catalog. It's mostly just "drawings" representing various colors.
I don't think I've ever seen anyone with parts done with the Eastwood "chrome" finish, but I have seen some parts done by people at home with a spare oven that looked pretty good and nearly polished. Anyone have suggestions for the best powder to buy for a finish of this type?
Thanks!
Last edited by jimlab; 11-13-04 at 02:07 AM.
#2
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=Powdercoating
I am not sure that he used Eastwood, but Brian( 93BlackFD) did his engine parts and tranny front housing in a near chrome finish.
I think the links are dead but he talks about it in the thread.( I am tired and didn't re-read it)
That's the best i can do rite now. Pm him if he is around anymore. Haven't seen him in a while.
I am not sure that he used Eastwood, but Brian( 93BlackFD) did his engine parts and tranny front housing in a near chrome finish.
I think the links are dead but he talks about it in the thread.( I am tired and didn't re-read it)
That's the best i can do rite now. Pm him if he is around anymore. Haven't seen him in a while.
#3
Super Snuggles
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Thanks!
I think those are probably the parts that I saw, but I'm out of town at the moment, so I can't check my picture archives. I PM'd him to see if he can help.
I think those are probably the parts that I saw, but I'm out of town at the moment, so I can't check my picture archives. I PM'd him to see if he can help.
#4
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These were done by Scott (raspyrx7) and the polished rotor is on the left, and powdercoat chrome on the right. I think I remember him mentioning that he uses Eastwood powder.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=kit
And here's a link for more pics of "near chrome" powder.
I'll be trying out the Eastwood chrome powder on my manifolds as soon as I get my oven in but you can probably contact Scott to get some feedback right away.
Last edited by DamonB; 11-13-04 at 02:43 PM.
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#8
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Originally Posted by -TAL-
If u have to, just buy the powder in a small amount and give it to them to use with the parts
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They obviously know what they are doing, they just don't have the colour.
Don't flame me in an attempt to pull business off the board.
Powder as i'm sure you know comes in tons of sizes. 8oz all the way up to 50lbs.
It does make sense because an 8oz bottle is only 13 dollars. It's not like it goings to break the bank, and by the size of the parts he got done allready i'd imagine they are local.
They money he would save on shipping it to you, he could buy the powder and Have money left to spare.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...keyword=Chrome
Don't flame me in an attempt to pull business off the board.
Powder as i'm sure you know comes in tons of sizes. 8oz all the way up to 50lbs.
It does make sense because an 8oz bottle is only 13 dollars. It's not like it goings to break the bank, and by the size of the parts he got done allready i'd imagine they are local.
They money he would save on shipping it to you, he could buy the powder and Have money left to spare.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...keyword=Chrome
Last edited by -TAL-; 11-14-04 at 10:43 AM.
#10
Super Snuggles
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Originally Posted by TurboSmoke
see, that dose not make sence since he would be buying a whole bottle and depending on what he has done he might have alot of the powder left over.
i did some powdercoating with raspy when i was out in idaho in march. You'd be better just sending your parts to someone that knows what they are doing.
They simply don't carry a chrome-like powder (for whatever reason) and recommended clear powder coating polished aluminum pieces instead because the gloss is higher. I'm sure they'd be happy to spray whatever powder I give them and keep the rest for their trouble, and I'm fine with that. My only question was WHERE to get the powder, because Eastwood's prices are usually high, and I didn't know if anyone had used that particular powder before. I'm more concerned with the results than the cost, but I do appreciate your effort to save me some money.
#11
Super Snuggles
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Originally Posted by Dan H
These were done by Scott (raspyrx7) and the polished rotor is on the left, and powdercoat chrome on the right.
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i'm not the one that dose the powdercoating, scott RaspyRx7 is. if you look on his site. That rotor and housing in the pic on the left. That is mine. and also all the parts on the main page at the bottom are mine as well.
TurboSmoke
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#15
Super Snuggles
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BTW, I just ordered 5 lbs. of Eastwood Company's "Reflective Chrome" powder today. I'll have plenty left over when they're done coating my parts if anyone is interested in buying the remainder.
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Jim,
I used the same powder and a clear for my manifolds. It did not hold up to the heat. After about 6 months (Driving twice a week) the lower manifold looked like shattered glass. The upper manifold developed long cracks and tappered off the closer they got to the TB. I would not recommend it.
I ended up stripping it all off, polishing and applying a bare metal sealant. That has held up very well.
Chris
I used the same powder and a clear for my manifolds. It did not hold up to the heat. After about 6 months (Driving twice a week) the lower manifold looked like shattered glass. The upper manifold developed long cracks and tappered off the closer they got to the TB. I would not recommend it.
I ended up stripping it all off, polishing and applying a bare metal sealant. That has held up very well.
Chris
#18
Super Snuggles
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Originally Posted by manatecu
Jim,
I used the same powder and a clear for my manifolds. It did not hold up to the heat. After about 6 months (Driving twice a week) the lower manifold looked like shattered glass. The upper manifold developed long cracks and tappered off the closer they got to the TB. I would not recommend it.
I ended up stripping it all off, polishing and applying a bare metal sealant. That has held up very well.
I used the same powder and a clear for my manifolds. It did not hold up to the heat. After about 6 months (Driving twice a week) the lower manifold looked like shattered glass. The upper manifold developed long cracks and tappered off the closer they got to the TB. I would not recommend it.
I ended up stripping it all off, polishing and applying a bare metal sealant. That has held up very well.
#20
Originally Posted by jimlab
Thanks Chris, but I don't have a rotary engine any more.
1) Does this mean you're definitely finishing up your FD??
2) Would you happen to know just how big the difference is between the normal operating temps of a rotary and the V8 you're running?
Ok...one more Wouldn't using a sealer (like for example polishing the UIM then clearcoating it) be very bad, since it would decrease the metal's ability to dissapate heat? (I dunno if that's any diff than powdercoating, in the sense that you apply a layer of "paint" onto a metal, effectively sealing it from the outside...)
#21
Super Snuggles
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
1) Does this mean you're definitely finishing up your FD??
2) Would you happen to know just how big the difference is between the normal operating temps of a rotary and the V8 you're running?
Wouldn't using a sealer (like for example polishing the UIM then clearcoating it) be very bad, since it would decrease the metal's ability to dissapate heat? (I dunno if that's any diff than powdercoating, in the sense that you apply a layer of "paint" onto a metal, effectively sealing it from the outside...)
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Originally Posted by manatecu
Jim,
I used the same powder and a clear for my manifolds. It did not hold up to the heat. After about 6 months (Driving twice a week) the lower manifold looked like shattered glass. The upper manifold developed long cracks and tappered off the closer they got to the TB. I would not recommend it.
I ended up stripping it all off, polishing and applying a bare metal sealant. That has held up very well.
Chris
I used the same powder and a clear for my manifolds. It did not hold up to the heat. After about 6 months (Driving twice a week) the lower manifold looked like shattered glass. The upper manifold developed long cracks and tappered off the closer they got to the TB. I would not recommend it.
I ended up stripping it all off, polishing and applying a bare metal sealant. That has held up very well.
Chris
And just curious. Was it just coated once and without clearcoat powder?
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Another possibility is Jetcoating the parts. It's a ceramic filish and they do chrome/aluminum looking parts and will hold up real well to heat.
I have used them on a "badboy" Austin Healey I built years ago. Before anyone asks, a "badboy" Healey is a V8 powered Healey...
Jetcoat's site is at
http://www.jetcoat.com/customer/index3.html
Badboy Healey site is at
www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys
I have used them on a "badboy" Austin Healey I built years ago. Before anyone asks, a "badboy" Healey is a V8 powered Healey...
Jetcoat's site is at
http://www.jetcoat.com/customer/index3.html
Badboy Healey site is at
www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys
#24
Originally Posted by jimlab
I've never "not" been finishing it. I'm just finishing it slowly, when I feel like it.
Are you referring to EGTs or just general component temperatures?
Sealing it from oxidation, not heat transfer, and the difference is probably negligible.[/QUOTE] Well can it still transfer heat as efficiently as if it wasn't sealed w/ a powdercoat or clearcoat? Because the underside is obviously the hot side, and the top side that's now sealed is the main area heat's gonna be disappated into the surrounding air...