evotechnik

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know how to repair the little screw post on the shift boot console? The 4 post on mine have weathered and cracked over time and the screws no longer have anything to screw into.

Any suggestions on repairing this.

Sideo

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/eureka-fix-plastic-parts-kinda-long-w-pics-828143/

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=11666

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

Just what I needed. Going to takle this next week.

evotechnik

iTrader: (1)

Just ordered it! Gonna tackle this next week!

Thanks!

Sideo

let me know how it goes i want to try it as well

browndog9

iTrader: (3)

Finally something I know a little about. Thematerial presented is methmethacrylate or acrylic. It can be bought through any dental lab supply house. Youcould try drill and tap the acrylic but by nature it is very brittle. Better would be to drill and superglue a brass cylinder with knurled outside and proper threads. Also at woodworking shops

BlinD26

iTrader: (27)

I wasn't too impressed with plast-aid's 'workability', so I'm trying something a little different this time, I'm going to use Mighty Putty (yes, the Billy Mayes product) since it's already pre-metered for mixing regardless of how much you cut off, super moldable, and has the ability to be sanded, drilled and tapped when cured.

I am also going to top that off with the ABS cement as the top sealer.

I will make a thread on the results.

Nosferatu

"3M" and "SEM" to name a few make many different adhesive fillers for plastic. Apart from being somewhat expensive, the real irratant is that you require one of their propriatory dispensing dual cartrage guns that only fit that particular line of adhesives which is another $100 bones.

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

The mighty putty don't work. My AC control panel and gauges where installed using that stuff and they didn't hold up well or at all.


I plan on using a slightly different method using styrene plastic hallow rods about the same size as the factory studs. For the larger broken studs I will make a threaded mold so it will not crack when crewing screws.

BlinD26

iTrader: (27)

Hmmm thats a bit disconcerning.. What exactly failed? The adhesion to the plastic or the cured putty itself?

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

A bit of both. It did stick to the panel but it didn't stick to the ac controls themselves. The previous owner used it on the mounting areas and it started to crumble once I would push the AC switch on/off and it ended up caving in. Same happened to the pop up light switch and the blank off button where the cruise control is on other FDs other than the R models. Now to remove the reminding putty seems to be a bitch but not imposible. So on a nut shell if it put to some stress it will crumble. To me the mighty putty feels more like the modeling clay that hardens over time type.

Now if you go to the plast-aid website it has some videos on how to make threaded molds that will be helpfull. If you canwait till later on this week I will show you how I plan on doing it.

Sideo

looking forward to your results pllease take tutorial pics

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

Finally got around to do this today. Don't mind the background mess. Working on all my interior panels today. Some of them required the use of fiberglass to remake tabs and where broken piece where at. That will be on my log thread later when it is ready.

As you can see all my studs were broken on my gauge panel. I got some of this plastic tubing at my local hobby store (Hobbytown USA). It is 1/4" thick. This was my test run. for the rest of them I will wait till the glue is a bit thicker so it doesn't run down.

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

Well the stud is holding on very well. Tried to break it off with some pliers and the stud broke on the upper part where there was no glue. So I'm convinced that this stuff works very well.

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem on some of the screws for the glovebox. I filled the holes with E3000 and then drilled a pilot hole after letting them cure for 3 days. The E3000 is pliable and VERY strong. The screws now grip well but I think you could over-torque them if you weren't careful.

I also used E3000 to repair my passenger door handle, but in addition to the adhesive I drilled a hole through the handle and put a small steel rod all the way through the handle. I doubt I will ever break it now.

BlinD26

iTrader: (27)

Pretty good idea. Ordered a pack for ~$8 and I'll rebuild my standoffs and let you know how it goes.

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

Before you start putting screws in the new studs, I would find screws that will fit good in there and screw them in before you glue the new stud in, the plastic is pretty hard. That way it is already threaded and it will be a snap to screw in. I bought new screws to use with the new studs.

browndog9

iTrader: (3)

Or you could use knerled brass inserts available at cabinet shops. These are already threaded and will reduce the shear load on the acrylic to plastic junction which is the weakest point. It has great tensile strength. Use the proper machine bolt and a lock washer and improve the cheap method to a better one for little or no extra effort.

browndog9

iTrader: (3)

Perhaps my comment would be viewed as a criticism of your hard work and effort in detailing your work for the general community. If this is the case please accept my apology. I am only implying that screwing a screw into a piece of plastic is the inexpensive method manufacturers might use to redue cost. So much nicer when you work metal to metal. Good luck with your project and thanks for your hard work.

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

^ No worries, this is why we have forums, so we can get a bunch of heads together and come up with solutions.

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

As you can see all my studs were gone in the AC panel. Everything was glued in place. What I like about using this plastic stud, is that once they are in, you can brake out the Dremel and trim them to needed height or if the base needs to be at certain angle it is a lot easier to trim.