My fix for the FDs crappy light output
10-26-10, 06:00 PM
#28
11-05-10, 05:06 PM
#31
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
i did a similar thing with single beam projectors. I didnt use HID because the kit i got was deffective so i ended up using halogen bulbs to try it out. Melted the housings with the halogen bulbs within 5 minutes of operation on the bench
04-05-12, 01:03 PM
#32
Hey guys VERY interested in trying my hand at making a set of these.
Any other good threads on the topic?
Can anyone that has done this please supply any better pictures of the lights themselves, perhaps with measurements?
Is there anywhere to find specs on these lights?
What is the light output on these?
What is the specific model number,manufacturer?
for those who have these, have there been any failures?
How hot are these lights getting after a long period of time?
Is there any risk of melting the plastics if installed incorrectly?
Are they relying on outside cooling air?
How are they bing sealed to the existing housing?
Any pictures of how these were mounted, and the modifications before and after mounting the lighting?
Any pictures of the lighting on a road showing how far these light both lo/hi?
Are there perhaps any better substitutes in the appropriate size lighting that might be worth considering?
The light housing has ~60mm OD running light housing,~65mm OD turns.
How are people controlling these?
Deleting stock popup functionality?
Or augmenting the system with a auxiliary 3 step toggle?
Has anyone considered utilizing 2 light per side, 4 total, and adding LED SMT circular pads for running and turn?
I found this place that sells for ~$63US presumably before shipping.
http://translate.google.com/translat...com%2F&act=url
Any other good threads on the topic?
Can anyone that has done this please supply any better pictures of the lights themselves, perhaps with measurements?
Is there anywhere to find specs on these lights?
What is the light output on these?
What is the specific model number,manufacturer?
for those who have these, have there been any failures?
How hot are these lights getting after a long period of time?
Is there any risk of melting the plastics if installed incorrectly?
Are they relying on outside cooling air?
How are they bing sealed to the existing housing?
Any pictures of how these were mounted, and the modifications before and after mounting the lighting?
Any pictures of the lighting on a road showing how far these light both lo/hi?
Are there perhaps any better substitutes in the appropriate size lighting that might be worth considering?
The light housing has ~60mm OD running light housing,~65mm OD turns.
How are people controlling these?
Deleting stock popup functionality?
Or augmenting the system with a auxiliary 3 step toggle?
Has anyone considered utilizing 2 light per side, 4 total, and adding LED SMT circular pads for running and turn?
I found this place that sells for ~$63US presumably before shipping.
http://translate.google.com/translat...com%2F&act=url
04-07-12, 06:29 PM
#34
Absolutely I did!
Intently....
What are you referring to here I am wondering?
I wish to ask you some specific questions if you will indulge me please.
If you are eluding to the refocus on the heat issue, there is some concern about this dependent on the specific plastic used in some of the reproduction housings, as well as the specific way they are mounted on the shroud. I have at least one account of HID specific lighting used in this mannor causing housing melting issues.
If you would kindly specify the temperature you are seeing from your specific lighting it would be very helpful.
The picture posted here are against a wall, hardly good for showing usable field of view lighting in a real world application.
I am able to determine cutoff and hot spots from your pictures, not a lot else.
I know nothing about the lights you used , I see no specs dimensions benchmarks or comparisons ect...
Seems fairly important for a retrofit to be able to determine fitment pre purchase, as well as make some kind of judgment on their suitability over other options?
How are these lights compare to the morimoto mini DS2 2.0 found here?
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=236
I dont ask these questions just to use HD space they are very pertinent questions to the topic at hand.
If you have information about this topic you are willing to share I ask that you kindly consider the questions and answer them in kind.
Intently....
What are you referring to here I am wondering?
I wish to ask you some specific questions if you will indulge me please.
If you are eluding to the refocus on the heat issue, there is some concern about this dependent on the specific plastic used in some of the reproduction housings, as well as the specific way they are mounted on the shroud. I have at least one account of HID specific lighting used in this mannor causing housing melting issues.
If you would kindly specify the temperature you are seeing from your specific lighting it would be very helpful.
The picture posted here are against a wall, hardly good for showing usable field of view lighting in a real world application.
I am able to determine cutoff and hot spots from your pictures, not a lot else.
I know nothing about the lights you used , I see no specs dimensions benchmarks or comparisons ect...
Seems fairly important for a retrofit to be able to determine fitment pre purchase, as well as make some kind of judgment on their suitability over other options?
How are these lights compare to the morimoto mini DS2 2.0 found here?
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=236
I dont ask these questions just to use HD space they are very pertinent questions to the topic at hand.
If you have information about this topic you are willing to share I ask that you kindly consider the questions and answer them in kind.
04-08-12, 11:35 AM
#35
as i have stated in this tread on page 1. they do not get hot, even with 55w 6000k Hid bulbs the projector assembly itself is cool enough to hold in your hand, no more than 40C. with halogen you will ruin the 99 lights in a few minutes. so temp is NOT an issue. i have used this setup for quite some time, in norway we have to use the lowbeams even during daytime, so these have seen 6-7hours use in summer temp continually without heat being an issue, so if they work here, they will work for everyone
the field of view is pretty good, it lights upp the entire front end, no dark spots (as some have claimed because of the way the 99lights are built) my PJ lens is 1mm from the plastic lens, so no trouble there. both high and lowbeams are an incredible uppgrade from the stock lights (though lighting a fart gives better driving light than the stockers )
but mounting PJ in the popups will give better lighting, the bumperlights are mounted alittle to low to the ground to be optimal, not a big issue but its there. i only did it this way for looks, and the fact that i have REamemiya lights instead of the popups, i dont think you will be able to do this retrofit with working popups, at least not the way i did it.
i had no other choise than to do it this way, since the old school RE light give Zero usable low beam. (Norway is pitch black 12+ hours big parts of the year, so good lighting is a must)
and i know nothing more about my PJs other than that they work,WELL. they where realtively cheap, they are approved (tuv/sae) and they are Bi xenon units with a mechanical shield inside the PJ unit. benchmarks, specs, comparisons are not of any interest. these work and they fit the 99 lights perfectly, they fit so snuggly that i didtn even have to make a braket to mount the PJs, i just trimmed the hole, mounted the lights, added silicone sealant, adjusted the lights to my liking( a bit og trial and error) and finished up. not very complicated ( cause it doesn't need to be)
only thing i would like to change is the plastic lens on the 99lights, they are a bit dim, so a lot of light output is lost there(they are the reason i needed to go up to the 55watters) with glass/lexan or some other kind of material that is intended for headlight use it wouldnt need anything over 35w. if the opportunity to make something like this appears, i will make at least 10 sets.
the field of view is pretty good, it lights upp the entire front end, no dark spots (as some have claimed because of the way the 99lights are built) my PJ lens is 1mm from the plastic lens, so no trouble there. both high and lowbeams are an incredible uppgrade from the stock lights (though lighting a fart gives better driving light than the stockers )
but mounting PJ in the popups will give better lighting, the bumperlights are mounted alittle to low to the ground to be optimal, not a big issue but its there. i only did it this way for looks, and the fact that i have REamemiya lights instead of the popups, i dont think you will be able to do this retrofit with working popups, at least not the way i did it.
i had no other choise than to do it this way, since the old school RE light give Zero usable low beam. (Norway is pitch black 12+ hours big parts of the year, so good lighting is a must)
and i know nothing more about my PJs other than that they work,WELL. they where realtively cheap, they are approved (tuv/sae) and they are Bi xenon units with a mechanical shield inside the PJ unit. benchmarks, specs, comparisons are not of any interest. these work and they fit the 99 lights perfectly, they fit so snuggly that i didtn even have to make a braket to mount the PJs, i just trimmed the hole, mounted the lights, added silicone sealant, adjusted the lights to my liking( a bit og trial and error) and finished up. not very complicated ( cause it doesn't need to be)
only thing i would like to change is the plastic lens on the 99lights, they are a bit dim, so a lot of light output is lost there(they are the reason i needed to go up to the 55watters) with glass/lexan or some other kind of material that is intended for headlight use it wouldnt need anything over 35w. if the opportunity to make something like this appears, i will make at least 10 sets.
04-11-12, 09:29 PM
#36
Thank you, that is a very good answer!
That description instills a lot of confidence that there will be absolutely NO issue what so ever with the heat using HID for this specific application, despite how they are mounted.
What is a PJ lens?
I see PF - precision focus, but no PJ?
What about operation? How are you controlling these?
Simple relay and a switch?
Is it possible to get a few hi/low photos of the lighting on a darkened strait level road showing the benefits of this lighting and that the low mounting location provides appropriate lighting.
BTW they look amazing, hard to believe more people are not on board with this mod or that a production set with the correct attributes exist to make this easy for the lay person.
That description instills a lot of confidence that there will be absolutely NO issue what so ever with the heat using HID for this specific application, despite how they are mounted.
What is a PJ lens?
I see PF - precision focus, but no PJ?
What about operation? How are you controlling these?
Simple relay and a switch?
Is it possible to get a few hi/low photos of the lighting on a darkened strait level road showing the benefits of this lighting and that the low mounting location provides appropriate lighting.
BTW they look amazing, hard to believe more people are not on board with this mod or that a production set with the correct attributes exist to make this easy for the lay person.
04-14-12, 10:23 PM
#37
PJ lens=projector hehe,
the qsps light comes with a in harnes relay that connects directly to the FDs H4 connector (as this unit is meant for uppgrading R-bikes with old h4 tech)
ill try to get you some pics soon, i dont know when since i dont have plates ob my car at the moment (has been in storage for some time) i did however drive the car at night last Wednesday, they work pretty darn good, BUT! im still having issues with the 99 combolight lens, it distorts and takes away so much of the lightoutput. im actually thinking of trying one of the new 75W hid kits, just to see if thats enough wattage to overcome the loss of output,(this will be doen AFTER i buy myself a good lux meter, so i can test before and after output.
i wish there where someone close that could make that damn lens for me, in a better more suited material. the stupid 99 lens is just so dull (all the way through the material, polishing wont work, i tried) maybe sanding it real this just in front of the PJ and then polishing it is the answer
the qsps light comes with a in harnes relay that connects directly to the FDs H4 connector (as this unit is meant for uppgrading R-bikes with old h4 tech)
ill try to get you some pics soon, i dont know when since i dont have plates ob my car at the moment (has been in storage for some time) i did however drive the car at night last Wednesday, they work pretty darn good, BUT! im still having issues with the 99 combolight lens, it distorts and takes away so much of the lightoutput. im actually thinking of trying one of the new 75W hid kits, just to see if thats enough wattage to overcome the loss of output,(this will be doen AFTER i buy myself a good lux meter, so i can test before and after output.
i wish there where someone close that could make that damn lens for me, in a better more suited material. the stupid 99 lens is just so dull (all the way through the material, polishing wont work, i tried) maybe sanding it real this just in front of the PJ and then polishing it is the answer
04-15-12, 02:42 PM
#39
Very good post, those are the things I am typically after, the limitations of these not just their Pros, but also their Cons, which can be just as important a consideration if not more so..
How do you suppose the system will cope with a 75W kit?
Have you considered the detrimental effects from high foreground lighting?
Have you worked on solutions to limit its effects?
Do you feel the lighting currently is sufficient, but there is room for improvement, or are you just looking for better solutions for the sake of a better system?
Have you looked into having lenses manufactured with better transmittance and refraction properties?
Closer where?
What kind of costs can you get something like that done for if you have looked into it?
I have played with some small vacuum forming, but not sure what materials would not only be vacuum formable, but also be advantageous for light transmittance?
How do you suppose the system will cope with a 75W kit?
Have you considered the detrimental effects from high foreground lighting?
Have you worked on solutions to limit its effects?
Do you feel the lighting currently is sufficient, but there is room for improvement, or are you just looking for better solutions for the sake of a better system?
Closer where?
What kind of costs can you get something like that done for if you have looked into it?
I have played with some small vacuum forming, but not sure what materials would not only be vacuum formable, but also be advantageous for light transmittance?
04-16-12, 08:31 AM
#40
the things you are asking are just the things ive been thinking about myself. foreground lighting is an issue, i really noticed it the last time i drove, its almost like driving with the fogs on, might be an idea to put in an extra shield inside the projector to get rid of that(if i really feel like it)
im not sure if the whole assembly will cope with 75w, i have never tries HID with that kind of power, but for the gain of greater output im willing to try, as a precaution im thinking of putting a computer fan on each PJ, just to be sure (like in the corvettes without popups,c5 i belive)
The lighting is suffisient, bur could use more power on the highbeams, its alittle dark in the middle og the highbeam pattern (this will not be an issue for me once i fix the relays that power the 4x55wHID i have in my RE amemiyas, all 4 used as high beams, since they are 100%useless as low)
about the bumperlenses: i really want to start looking into having something made out of a better material, but im not sure where to start. but it shouldn't be that hard to make, since the shape isnt wery complicated, might be able to make something myself only using lexan and a heatgun. im open to suggestions here
im not sure if the whole assembly will cope with 75w, i have never tries HID with that kind of power, but for the gain of greater output im willing to try, as a precaution im thinking of putting a computer fan on each PJ, just to be sure (like in the corvettes without popups,c5 i belive)
The lighting is suffisient, bur could use more power on the highbeams, its alittle dark in the middle og the highbeam pattern (this will not be an issue for me once i fix the relays that power the 4x55wHID i have in my RE amemiyas, all 4 used as high beams, since they are 100%useless as low)
about the bumperlenses: i really want to start looking into having something made out of a better material, but im not sure where to start. but it shouldn't be that hard to make, since the shape isnt wery complicated, might be able to make something myself only using lexan and a heatgun. im open to suggestions here
04-16-12, 11:44 PM
#41
Are these light you are using able to accept custom shields?
Have you played with the shielding at all?
I have been reading about foreground lighting, but not clear on the solutions and methods to decrease it.
any thoughts on the matter?
On the lenses, that would seem like one of the more deceivingly complex items to conquer.
If you have talked to anyone that would be able to make them out of automotive grade glass
On the plastic ones, I think it is the precision of the molds, or rather the as cast lens that produces the quality of the lighting through the lens.
Even small distortions and differences in thickness causes lensing distortion and inconsistent refraction.
Have you played with the shielding at all?
I have been reading about foreground lighting, but not clear on the solutions and methods to decrease it.
any thoughts on the matter?
On the lenses, that would seem like one of the more deceivingly complex items to conquer.
If you have talked to anyone that would be able to make them out of automotive grade glass
On the plastic ones, I think it is the precision of the molds, or rather the as cast lens that produces the quality of the lighting through the lens.
Even small distortions and differences in thickness causes lensing distortion and inconsistent refraction.
04-17-12, 09:17 PM
#42
making custom shielding is no problem, to kill foreground light i would just ad a small stripp of thin metall to the top of the PJ.
the most suited material to make the lens from would be thins automotive grade lexan. going to look into it in the future
the most suited material to make the lens from would be thins automotive grade lexan. going to look into it in the future
04-18-12, 12:13 PM
#43
woop woop
Join Date: Jun 2007
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you think it would be possible to do something like this but for the 93 model signals. was also interested in a stronger reverse light since the stock one sucks monkey *****
02-26-13, 12:48 AM
#47
We played around with offering something similar using bi-xenon HID's in the 99 spec marker lights. The biggest issue we ran into was making them aimable. I personally would only use a projector in the marker lights as auxiliary lighting (DRL, fog lights). It's a cool concept/alternative regardless
-Dan
Last edited by SakeBomb Garage; 02-26-13 at 12:50 AM.
