Dont forget even if you do come really really close to fitting it, you have to account for excursion of the mid! So you would have to add on for that, im going to take some pics of my unfinished kickpanels to night to give you some type of alternate idea.

 

I'm going to be going home soon (live in my dorms) and see how much space I have and if I can mock up a panel. I've been messaged by some people that there is a way to push the window track back (atleast on Tundra) by adding washers to the screw or something, it pushes the window track back enough to fit everything. I have a PDF and will see if I am able to do it with the RX-7.

 

Okay heres are a couple of pics of my kickpanels that im currently making. I put down tape where i wanted the mold to be and layed down some fiberglass. Than took that out and made the wood rings and dowels and lots of hot glue it came out like this.

Next I covered it with fleece. Once it was fleeced I put a ton of resin on. This is where I am at now and plan on putting the fiberglass tomorrow. Should be done this weekend and ill have pics of it inside the car. Although its rather small ill probally throw some polly fill in to make the woofer feel its in a bigger enclosure.


Heres a pic of my baby, and yes the rear bumper is getting painted and molded in two weeks to match.

Anymore questions feel free to ask.
BP

 

Ok, well I worked on the car today to see if there was any kind of way for us to fit the 6.5" 2.8" mounting depth and it just wasn't working out. I figured that I am going to return the speakers and I guess get 5.25" that'll fit in the door without having to do any major work other than baffel if I need to.

Please let me know what exactly I'm going to need dimension wise as mounting depth etc. I want to keep my door panel stock, I don't want the speaker to interfere with the grille, and I want really good SQ.

Another dilema is I have an amp for the components, should I still go components because I do not want to cut into my a-pillar to mount the tweeters. The only thing that will work out is having the tweeter mounted with the midbass in the door which is what I did with my Kicker Resolutions when I had my Blazer, but again I don't want it hitting my door panel. So should I go with coaxiles and power them with an amp still or what?

Basically this is what I get. For mounting depth, I can go as deep as around 2.1" with a baffel, then once it is mounted, the speaker can come out as far as 2.5" (meaning if I did mount the tweeter inside the midbass, the total would have to be less than 2.5" or else it would hit my grille.

Let me know your suggestions, options are

Return amp/components and get really good coax running off Alpine CDA-9855 deck

Return components and get really good coax running off amp (100x2 @4ohms)

Return components and buy a set of 5.25" or thin 6.5" components which can mount the tweeter in the midbass powered by the amp (100x2 @ 4ohms)

 

Excursion of the mid has nothing to do with mounting depth at all.

 

if it its to close to the door panel, on excursion it will hit it, creating noise. Hence if its not mounted deep enough than it could be a problem.

 

Yeah, so I can go to about 2.2-2.3" of mounting depth in able to make it fit nice. What do you guys suggest? I want some pretty good components that are slim.

 

Rainbow components are very slim: I had them before and they fit just fine, and sounded damn good too. They are about 2.3" mounting depth, check out speedsound.com, also you can find them for sale occasionaly at elitecaraudio.com, carsound.com, and caraudio.com....

 

Yeh I post regularly on caraudio.com and caraudioforum.com and sounddomain.com etc.

So do you think I should go 6 1/2 or 5 1/4?

 

you will get more bass with 6.5, but on the downside the magnet will be much bigger. Not sure what the depth is on the 6.5" rainbows.....

 

Ok, well I've decided to make a project out of it. I'm going to try and fiberglass a pod for the door and do a custom install. We'll see how it ends up but there is no way I am going to want to give up these speakers. Worse comes to worse, I'll have a shop do the install, but they want $400 for it. I rather try it myself and save myself the money.

John, you have any step by step pictures or instructions when you did your pods?

 

Sorry, no step by step on the pods. I do have step by step on the sub work.

 

I basically know how to do a sub box I believe. Basically, do the mounting ring, have a MDF frame and then have a cloth over it tightly, soak it in resin and all that stuff right?

I would probably do the one for my door pod, just a matter of how to mount it on the actual door without damaging anything or cutting the door panel.

 

I have an explanation on mounting it above. The best and easiest is to take your panel off and use the factory mounting locations to sucure your new pod.