TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

Does anyone on the forum make or know where to find an enclosure that fits int he back hatch or nicely under the rear strut bar. I have this big ugly box just sitting behind the seats and really wanna get rid of it for something nicer. I didnt really want to go have a custom one made if its easier and cheaper to find one already made for the FD. Thanks

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

BTW, im looking to fit 1 or 2 12's...whatever is available, would prob rather have just the 1 though.

YellowR1

iTrader: (3)

I have one that i just took out that needs to be re carpeted that is designed to git under the strut and a matching amb rac i am going to sell i attahced a pic if your interested email at project93r1@aol.com and we can work something out

SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

^That's pretty sharp looking.

TpC, you been around? Haven't seen you post in a long time.

driFDer

iTrader: (1)

Ye Im looking for something like that too. Only way I see of doing it is custom at a shop that knows what they're doing.

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

Offhand I don't know of any pre-fabbed enclosure that will fit flush under rear strut bar so you may have to go custom.

You can try "Mr. Marv" from the Elite Car Audio forums:

http://community-2.webtv.net/MarvsPlace/MarvsPlace/

Calculate the internal volume for your sub(s), give him the dimensions (and size and shape), and he will build any enclosure you want. This guy is a wood craftsman by trade and does custom cabinetry for a living. His work is first class. He uses no glue and screws are used at a minimum - the tolerances of the cuts of wood are so precise that he barely needs to use any. You can fill up one of his enclosures with water and it won't leak! I had him make me the little Miata pax side enclosure for an 8" sub on page 3 (pics #151 & 153).

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

SiKoPaThX, im still around and in the past year have done more reading/modding/working on the car then actual posting. Im still here for anybody that needs anything whether its a question or requests for pics.....i have ungodly amounts....most of which are just in a "random" folder which i have yet to organize into the collection(takes alot of time)

YellowR1

iTrader: (3)

You know if there is enough deman i can start knocking out a few custom boxes for fd's in my spare time I am going to be doing an rx8 next so i will let you know how the box on that turns outs

94RHDFD

iTrader: (3)

Can you make a box that matches the contour of the divider and hold two 8's and fit under the rear strut tower?

driFDer

iTrader: (1)

YellowR1, if you were to make them how much are you looking to get for a box similar to the one you attached above?

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

What size sub is that? That looks really good, I'm looking to put one or two 10s into something like that, that doesn't take up a whole lot of room, and something I can take out if I need to without too much trouble.

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

From our very own moderator, DamonB:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...threadid=52096

YellowR1

iTrader: (3)

the sub in the picture is a 12w6v2

YellowR1

iTrader: (3)

and as far as the two eights i could do that pretty easily but i need to find another divider i just pitched the one that i had that way i can use it to make a mold for the back of the box but that wouldnt be to hard to do

YellowR1

iTrader: (3)

But i dont want to start anything until until i see if this rx8 box is going to need to be built but after that I can start making a few boxes here and there

94RHDFD

iTrader: (3)

YellowR1, I want the eights to fire forward (toward the back of the seats)

usma_2006

iTrader: (3)

I wish I was home right now so I could start working on the custom box I blueprinted... 2 10" speaker rings and an amp rack mounted underneath the sway bar and firing forward, fiberglassed, painted, and polished. I won't be home again until late May, so hopefully by then I'll be able to post pictures.

In the mean time, I need to get rid of the custom set up currently in the car to make room for the new setup. These are three kicker 10's in a custom box powered by a kicker amp (I can get more info on the amp this weekend; the car is up in the lots) but the subs and amp are matched very well. This setup will fill up your trunk, it's made for show. I'd keep it, but I need the trunk space because I commute and I need to be able to throw a rucksack and a flight bag back there every once in a while. My only request is that whoever buys the subs, box, and amp gives me their (preferably) black, non-bose carpet because this setup is built on a custom fab board that is cut to the inside of the trunk. I've never heard these subs at distortion because I can't turn the volume up that high without hurting me ears.

I'm looking for $400 obo. I have one picture attached but I can get more this weekend if they're needed.

usma_2006

iTrader: (3)

http://usma2006.myphotoalbum.com/vie...mName=Car-Pics

Pic didn't come through... follow the link...

YellowR1

iTrader: (3)

what kind of eights do you want to use that way i can see the air space need and mounting depth needed for the subs and what kind of amps do you just want to bolt the amp to the back of the box of do you want it flushed in.

spoolage

iTrader: (2)

Just so you know, you actually get better sound by firing the subs at the hatch glass. The way these cars are designed, they are actually sound machines, if you fire the subs at the glass it reverbs back and generates much greater sound than if you were to position them at your back.

YellowR1

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I know that you get better sound firing towards the rear considering a sub level frequency sound wave measured peak to peak is longer then the length of an suv but using the glass to reflect the sound helps promote the the sound by allow the sound wave to travel a further distance before reaching the listening are of the car but that is the way he wanted in and no matter how hard i try i found it is easier to just give people what they want

DamonB

Pure bologna. So how do you reckon people ever hear any low frequencies at all when they are wearing headphones? Afterall, the speakers are only a fraction of an inch from their ear drums in that case...

The wavelength "fitting" inside some enclosed space has nothing to do with your perception of audibility or loudness. As for which way the enclosure faces bass frequencies are omni-directional. You cannot "aim" them, they travel in every direction regardless of which way you point the cone. It is impossible to aim a bass driver, all you can do is place it in space.

94RHDFD

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to be using Dynaudio 8in subs

YellowR1

iTrader: (3)

Sound travels though air as waves. The length of the wave gets longer as the frequency decreases. How long are the wavelengths? Hard question to answer. The length of the wave of any particular audio frequency varies with air density/pressure -- just as the speed of sound varies with atmospheric conditions and altitude. In fact, it is because the speed of sound varies significantly over time that the wavelengths of audio frequencies in air varies. Let’s say the speed of sound at your altitude and current atmospheric pressure happens to be 1150 feet per second. To calculate the length of a 100Hz sound wave, you want the answer to come out in feet per cycle, so make 1150 the numerator and the divisor will be 100(Hz). You get 11.5 feet for the length of a 100Hz sound wave. Tomorrow the speed of sound for you might be 1100 feet per second, which will make 100Hz sound waves 11 feet long. Does this make a difference to the sound of your system? You bet it does! Ever wonder why you like the sound of your system more on some days than on other days? You think it is related to temperature? Sure, it could be. Think it is related to humidity? Yes again, that could do it. And electricity? Yes, another source of time-to-time differences. But I’ll bet not all that many audiophiles have considered how day-to-day changes in the speed of sound affects the sound of their systems. Wavelengths change and the acoustics of the room will change a bit with the wavelengths. I’ll even go so far as to speculate that setting up a system to sound good at 5000 feet elevation is different than setting up a system to sound good at 500 feet because of the significant change in the speed of sound between those two elevations -- assuming the same room and speakers in both locations, of course.

Quoted from max db with Doug Blackburn article was from feb 1999 avaible at soundstage.com I remeber reading allout from this gentlemen during the week we went over advanced acoustics at school

part 2. of article
So we know 100Hz sound waves are going to be in the range of 11 to 12 feet long or so. How about 50Hz? Double the length -- 22 to 24 feet. This means that if one dimension of your room is 23 feet, on some days you’ll be able to contain a fully developed 50Hz wave within the room and on other days you won’t! Pretty interesting, eh? I’m not saying there will be a huge qualitative or quantitative difference in the sound of 50Hz in that room on different days, but it is inevitable that some sonic difference will arise from the change in wavelengths from day to day.

Twenty-five Hertz waves in air are twice as long as 50Hz -- 44 to 48 feet. And 20Hz, the lowest frequency we’re supposed to be able to hear, would clock in around 55 to 59 feet long. Do you need a room with at least one 60-foot dimension in it to hear a real 20Hz in the room? No. Your ears actually pick up sound in a different way, reacting to the compressions and rarefactions that happen in the air as the sound propagates though the room. Twenty Hertz creates 20 compressions and rarefactions per second and your ear will pick that up even if you are listening to headphones that respond to frequencies that low. Otherwise your ear canal would have to be 60 feet long -- we would look rather odd if our heads were 60 feet wide.

Twenty-five Hertz waves in air are twice as long as 50Hz -- 44 to 48 feet. And 20Hz, the lowest frequency we’re supposed to be able to hear, would clock in around 55 to 59 feet long. Do you need a room with at least one 60-foot dimension in it to hear a real 20Hz in the room? No. Your ears actually pick up sound in a different way, reacting to the compressions and rarefactions that happen in the air as the sound propagates though the room. Twenty Hertz creates 20 compressions and rarefactions per second and your ear will pick that up even if you are listening to headphones that respond to frequencies that low. Otherwise your ear canal would have to be 60 feet long -- we would look rather odd if our heads were 60 feet wide.

Twenty-five Hertz waves in air are twice as long as 50Hz -- 44 to 48 feet. And 20Hz, the lowest frequency we’re supposed to be able to hear, would clock in around 55 to 59 feet long. Do you need a room with at least one 60-foot dimension in it to hear a real 20Hz in the room? No. Your ears actually pick up sound in a different way, reacting to the compressions and rarefactions that happen in the air as the sound propagates though the room. Twenty Hertz creates 20 compressions and rarefactions per second and your ear will pick that up even if you are listening to headphones that respond to frequencies that low. Otherwise your ear canal would have to be 60 feet long -- we would look rather odd if our heads were 60 feet wide.

DamonB

True.

Also true.

Pure bologna. Easy question to answer. All you need to know is the frequency and the properties of the medium. If that medium is air all you need to know are temp, pressure and humidity.

You posted an entire article that has nothing to do with the point you made earlier about facing the subs to the glass. Relate the article to your point of improved sound by aiming the subs at the glass.

The wavelengths of bass frequencies are very long. So what. That has nothing to do with the quality of sound you hear. The wavelength "fitting" inside some enclosed space has nothing to do with your perception of audibility or loudness. Again, think of the example of wearing headphones.

Give up on wave length and instead look for some info on interference and standing waves. Then continue with 1st, 2nd and 3rd order harmonics etc.