door speakers
12-24-03, 10:00 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ohio
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
door speakers
i have heard that u need to rewire everything to put something in the doors other than bose. anyone have any knowledge on the subject? im looking to put some new ones in the door, i have heard 6x5's are good for it. anyone have any suggestions? any help is greatly appreciated. thanks
12-25-03, 07:37 PM
#4
Missin' my FD
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Seminole, FL (Tampa Bay Area)
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually, in the Bose system the front speakers are 4 inch speakers in a plastic enclosure. I suppose you could use the wiring, but I'll be running an amplifier pushing 100+ watts to each side, so I'll need upgraded wiring.
12-25-03, 09:07 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ohio
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by ObliqueFD
If you have BOSE you do not have rear speakers. You have the Acoustic Wave System. Also you do not have to rewire. You only need a Scosche adapter. And you will have to do some modding of the stock speaker mounts for the new speakers to fit.
If you have BOSE you do not have rear speakers. You have the Acoustic Wave System. Also you do not have to rewire. You only need a Scosche adapter. And you will have to do some modding of the stock speaker mounts for the new speakers to fit.
12-25-03, 09:52 PM
#6
The Power of 1.3
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,837
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by BOOSTTN
how much is this Scoshe adapter, and where can i get it. as for the mounts, there was no official answer from anyone. could i fit 6x5s in there or 6x9s? thanks for the helps guys
how much is this Scoshe adapter, and where can i get it. as for the mounts, there was no official answer from anyone. could i fit 6x5s in there or 6x9s? thanks for the helps guys
5.25 in (round ones) speakers fit nicely in the doors. You can't use the rectangular ones, not enough room.
12-26-03, 03:20 AM
#7
If you're going to redo the whole system, I'd forego the adapter and rewire with better (Esoteric, Monster, et al.) and larger gauge speaker wires, especially if you're going to be installing a high end system or as "pianoprodigy" mentions, adding an amp. 5.25" speakers will fit in the doors however you will be limited to what you can install because there is not much mounting depth. Check the "What Fits My Car?" link on the left under "Car Products" at crutchfield.com to give you an idea of what you can put there. Compare the speaker's measurements and buy accordingly. If you will not be adding a subwoofer, you can fit 5x7s or 5x7/6x8s in the panels behind the seats for some measure of bass and rear fill.
Trending Topics
01-18-04, 04:34 PM
#9
I specialize in Bose systems in Nissans, and the early 90's Maxima and 300ZX have virtually the same system. The only major difference is the shape of the enclosures (of course) and the harnesses are different
The front speakers are 4.5" Bose drivers and are powered by “Omega” series amps. Nissans have Sigma series amps, but in reality there is very little difference (if any) and they are interchangeable from 91 up (front amps anyway). All Bose automotive amps from 91 and up have the same modular connection...even in GM and Honda products!
The front speakers are housed in perfectly tuned enclosures, and IF powered properly, will easily sound better than 75% of all aftermarket speakers you could buy. These are the same drivers, yet with tougher cones and cloth surrounds as the $1500 Bose 901 home speakers. These were also used in virtually every Bose automotive and PA system from the early 80's up until the mid to late 90's.
BEFORE you run and buy new speakers, I advise you to take out one front enclosure / speaker assembly. Then run a wire directly to the speaker (through the port for this test). Make sure you have reassembled the enclosure 100% airtight. Then hook the speaker up to your home stereo (for testing). If you think that you can beat the sound you then hear with aftermarket speakers, go for it! I am not saying you cannot do so with enough money and time invested, but typical off the shelf stuff won’t even come close.
Next, if desired, you can easily bypass the front amps in the RX7, simply by patching the output from the tabs in the female harness connector directly to the Bose speaker using the existing pass through on the enclosure. I make (sell) bypass harnesses for Nissans, but this is somewhat unnecessary for the RX7, since the tabs are standard .250’s in the female harness at the door panel. Anyone with common sense, and a set of strippers and crimpers could make their own bypass harness in about 10 minutes without cutting a single wire in the car. If you do this, remember that the drivers are 1 ohm, so wire and / or amplify accordingly.
The rear "Wave" setup is not so great unfortunately. They use 6.75" drivers which are also the same speakers used in the 90 model Z car, as well as Legends, and GM "Gold Bose" systems. These drivers are quite unreliable in comparison to the front drivers, which are nearly bulletproof.
In my opinion, I would eliminate the rear assembly unless you simply want to keep it for conversation’s sake or to keep the car OEM looking.
Another note, the Scosche adapter isn't totally necessary, but is helpful if you are not an experienced installer. The issue I have with them is that in reality, they are also a line level converter, so your system will never sound better than the weakest link. By using one of these you introduce quite a bit of noise, due to the process of the initial amplification of the signal by the deck’s amplifier, then the conversion to low level output by the Scosche adapter, then re-amplification back to speaker level sound by the Bose amp. However most people probably couldn’t tell the difference anyway (but I can!). I have seen other adapters that convert RCA leads to simple wires, but unless this is dirt cheap, why not do this yourself? Also, these have gain controls, so once again, you would be adding noise to the original signal by processing the signal through potentiometers, PLUS low level output is several times more volnerable to noise anyway.
The alternative is to wire in the new deck, just as you would if you didn’t have a Bose equipped car. The only major difference is that you would "splice" the RCA output of the deck into the speaker leads of the harness, rather than the speaker output of the deck. Doing the latter would overdrive the Bose amps into oblivion!
Any more questions…email me direct. Also, check out my site at the link below. Although it is written for Nissan-Bose systems, almost everything will also apply to the Bose equipped RX7. I will likely add a small RX7 section soon anyway, because I am currently dealing with a 93 RX7 with the Bose system.
http://webpages.charter.net/dm1/misc/bose.htm
The front speakers are 4.5" Bose drivers and are powered by “Omega” series amps. Nissans have Sigma series amps, but in reality there is very little difference (if any) and they are interchangeable from 91 up (front amps anyway). All Bose automotive amps from 91 and up have the same modular connection...even in GM and Honda products!
The front speakers are housed in perfectly tuned enclosures, and IF powered properly, will easily sound better than 75% of all aftermarket speakers you could buy. These are the same drivers, yet with tougher cones and cloth surrounds as the $1500 Bose 901 home speakers. These were also used in virtually every Bose automotive and PA system from the early 80's up until the mid to late 90's.
BEFORE you run and buy new speakers, I advise you to take out one front enclosure / speaker assembly. Then run a wire directly to the speaker (through the port for this test). Make sure you have reassembled the enclosure 100% airtight. Then hook the speaker up to your home stereo (for testing). If you think that you can beat the sound you then hear with aftermarket speakers, go for it! I am not saying you cannot do so with enough money and time invested, but typical off the shelf stuff won’t even come close.
Next, if desired, you can easily bypass the front amps in the RX7, simply by patching the output from the tabs in the female harness connector directly to the Bose speaker using the existing pass through on the enclosure. I make (sell) bypass harnesses for Nissans, but this is somewhat unnecessary for the RX7, since the tabs are standard .250’s in the female harness at the door panel. Anyone with common sense, and a set of strippers and crimpers could make their own bypass harness in about 10 minutes without cutting a single wire in the car. If you do this, remember that the drivers are 1 ohm, so wire and / or amplify accordingly.
The rear "Wave" setup is not so great unfortunately. They use 6.75" drivers which are also the same speakers used in the 90 model Z car, as well as Legends, and GM "Gold Bose" systems. These drivers are quite unreliable in comparison to the front drivers, which are nearly bulletproof.
In my opinion, I would eliminate the rear assembly unless you simply want to keep it for conversation’s sake or to keep the car OEM looking.
Another note, the Scosche adapter isn't totally necessary, but is helpful if you are not an experienced installer. The issue I have with them is that in reality, they are also a line level converter, so your system will never sound better than the weakest link. By using one of these you introduce quite a bit of noise, due to the process of the initial amplification of the signal by the deck’s amplifier, then the conversion to low level output by the Scosche adapter, then re-amplification back to speaker level sound by the Bose amp. However most people probably couldn’t tell the difference anyway (but I can!). I have seen other adapters that convert RCA leads to simple wires, but unless this is dirt cheap, why not do this yourself? Also, these have gain controls, so once again, you would be adding noise to the original signal by processing the signal through potentiometers, PLUS low level output is several times more volnerable to noise anyway.
The alternative is to wire in the new deck, just as you would if you didn’t have a Bose equipped car. The only major difference is that you would "splice" the RCA output of the deck into the speaker leads of the harness, rather than the speaker output of the deck. Doing the latter would overdrive the Bose amps into oblivion!
Any more questions…email me direct. Also, check out my site at the link below. Although it is written for Nissan-Bose systems, almost everything will also apply to the Bose equipped RX7. I will likely add a small RX7 section soon anyway, because I am currently dealing with a 93 RX7 with the Bose system.
http://webpages.charter.net/dm1/misc/bose.htm
Last edited by Dane; 01-18-04 at 05:02 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Dane:
armans (12-26-18),
WankleAddict (03-31-23)
01-18-04, 05:21 PM
#10
Full Member
Nice Website Dane 
Wow, thats the best advice I have heard on this subject.
It makes perfect sense that a high end, 1 ohm stable amp would do wonders for the Bose speakers.
I need to try that out.
Wow, thats the best advice I have heard on this subject.
It makes perfect sense that a high end, 1 ohm stable amp would do wonders for the Bose speakers.
I need to try that out.
01-19-04, 11:31 AM
#11
Thanks. Another idea I am toying with for someone that wants only 4 speakers and has no plans to buy a sub for their FD...use Maxima or 300ZX Bose enclosures in the rear of an FD to replace the Wave assembly.
They use the exact same drivers as the fronts in the FD, therefore you could use any 2 channel amp wired in a series (safe 2 ohm load). This is what 300ZX owners often do (because 91-96 models have the same drivers all around as FD's do in front). The 90 models used the same speaker as FD's Wave, but they often replace these with the better 4.5's.
I have setup many Z's like this, and this is easily the best sounding setup I have heard...NOTE, without a subwoofer, that is, because the 4.5" speakers actually cover the full frequency well when tuned properly (as is the case in the enclosures). If you Bose FD owners will notice, the fronts actually put out more bass than the rear anyway, so imagine this sound playing throughout the whole car evenly.
Also this would likely shave a few pounds from the overall weight, plus you would get full range sound from the rear.
Anyone interested? I would sell the equipment at cost if if anyone wants to try this (only once however)!
They use the exact same drivers as the fronts in the FD, therefore you could use any 2 channel amp wired in a series (safe 2 ohm load). This is what 300ZX owners often do (because 91-96 models have the same drivers all around as FD's do in front). The 90 models used the same speaker as FD's Wave, but they often replace these with the better 4.5's.
I have setup many Z's like this, and this is easily the best sounding setup I have heard...NOTE, without a subwoofer, that is, because the 4.5" speakers actually cover the full frequency well when tuned properly (as is the case in the enclosures). If you Bose FD owners will notice, the fronts actually put out more bass than the rear anyway, so imagine this sound playing throughout the whole car evenly.
Also this would likely shave a few pounds from the overall weight, plus you would get full range sound from the rear.
Anyone interested? I would sell the equipment at cost if if anyone wants to try this (only once however)!
01-19-04, 11:48 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Myanmar
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
damn its a shame that the owner before me took out the Bose system. I feel in love when i first heard the accoustimas system... i even bought one for my small entertainment system.. it sounds amazing! 
but all of this, of course, at the expense of cost!! 
but all of this, of course, at the expense of cost!!
Last edited by Cihuuy; 01-19-04 at 11:51 AM.
