Door Actuator Help
#1
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Door Actuator Help
I'm in the middle of installing a remote start/keyless entry system in my FD.
I got the remote start finished and working, and my door lock actuator came in the mail today so I tried to install it.
And no matter which way I position it's little rod thing it seems as if the actuator doesnt have enough power to lock and unlock the door.. does anyone have any tips or info on their setup? Thanks.
I got the remote start finished and working, and my door lock actuator came in the mail today so I tried to install it.
And no matter which way I position it's little rod thing it seems as if the actuator doesnt have enough power to lock and unlock the door.. does anyone have any tips or info on their setup? Thanks.
#5
You will need a relay if the alarm does not have built in ones for door locks. An easy addition. Try adding wire to the end of the actuators and use your car battery. If this does not work, you might need haevby duty actuators. I picked mine up from partsexpress.
#6
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I'm not sure how you have the actuator attached to the cable/latch but if it's binding that can cause it. I also had an actuator go bad before I even had everything buttoned back up (luckily). So either I had a bad one or it failed due to me having it electrcially hooked up incorrectly...
I'm attaching a pic of my actuator placement. I made a little attaching plate between the wire and the plastic piece holding the cable. I forgot to take any pics until after I had installed...
I'm attaching a pic of my actuator placement. I made a little attaching plate between the wire and the plastic piece holding the cable. I forgot to take any pics until after I had installed...
#7
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Well I have it hooked up to the wires coming from the keyless entry system.. so it can switch power to it. I don't know what to do here, because I want the keyless entry system to work too! =/ Where did you get that purple box actuator?
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#8
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Oh wow apparently I need a relay. Does anyone know how I would wire the relay? I have a relay here.. but I'm confused on the wiring of it. Since FD's only need one door lock actuator (the keyless only needs to be hooked up to the drivers door.. since that automatically triggers the passanger door.) So I'm lost on how to wire it.. any help would be appreciated.
#9
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ZeroBanger has a good write-up https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/nice-keyless-entry-money-252190/
I bought the actuator from here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-582
even though it shows gray in the pic, both mine showed up purple.
Also, the (2) relays you'll need are right below it on the link above.
I bought the actuator from here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-582
even though it shows gray in the pic, both mine showed up purple.
Also, the (2) relays you'll need are right below it on the link above.
#10
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Thanks for the links. My actuator works fine now.. just need to find a new brass piece that connects it to the metal rod thingy.. mine broke. I had a couple relays laying around so now all I have to do is hit the hardware store and get back under the dash wiring some more. Thanks for the help!
#11
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Got it working great today.. needed two relays.. one for lock one for unlock, routed the wire through the door into the cabin and hooked everything up.. works great!
#12
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Just A piece on foresight i had my actuator installed in a similar way but using a DEI piece after after use the way that actuator is angled causes stress on the cable and will eventually cause it to break or bind. there is a way to fix it when it happens but after time it more then likely will.
#13
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Originally Posted by YellowR1
Just A piece on foresight i had my actuator installed in a similar way but using a DEI piece after after use the way that actuator is angled causes stress on the cable and will eventually cause it to break or bind. there is a way to fix it when it happens but after time it more then likely will.
#14
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yeah neather was mine i actaully drilled a hole for the push rod right next the the one for the actuator just the angel of thrust cause it to put stress on the cable causeing it to break right at the piont were the cable comes into the metal elbow attaching it to the lock lever but since that was a DEI piece if might not have the same kick and might not put the strain as mine did
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