BigJim

so im picking up 2 10" subs and am building a setup for them. I just need to know about the holes for the subs. I am getting 10" so should the holes be cut at 10" diameter? The reason i ask is because i am not sure if a 10" speaker iss 10" inside the mounting bracket or outside of it. I assume it is inside but just want to be sure.

AntiVenom7

should be 10" on the inside. if my feeble memory serves me, you usually get a template in the speaker box.

on the other hand, you could use a tape measure, or perhaps a ruler. some sort of measuring device.

BigJim

I dont know what subs im getting yet, im just building. I know im getting 10"s though. I think i am gonna cut it at 9 inches.

SchoolZone

You shouldn't be building **** for them yet until you know what you are gonna get. Every sub requires different requirments from the hole size to the box airspace. So my advice would be to stop and wait to build until you get them. And I hope your building it out of MDF, anything else will leak air.

AntiVenom7

yea you should definitely wait until you get the speakers. different subs will require different backspacing, and different cubic inches/feet(which will vary if you go ported or non-ported)

i prefer non-ported. gives a tighter sound, but you will get less bang for the buck, soundwise. the advantage to nonported is a smaller box.

not sure what the advantage of MDF. especially if porting, you are already 'leaking' air.

i've always built mine out of good quality plywood, and sealed the edges. I have 2 12's in my FD running 550watts at 2ohms and the box sounds beautiful. nice tight base, it'll shake the whole car if i want, or just add a little extra rumble, if i am relaxing.

my goal was a clean sound, not competition style, window blowing bass. so take it FWIW.

SchoolZone

When you port you are leaking a specific amount of air for it to sound correct. Plywood leaks air, if you build a plywood box and size the ports to specs its not going to be correct. If you dont believe that plywood leaks air, then put your hand or a piece of paper next to a side and youll see what I mean. MDF is filled with resins that prevents any air leaking, it also does not vibrate or rattle. If you are gonna build a box, build it right.

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

You should not build a box until you know what will go in it. Different subs have different "cutouts" which are the sizes of the actual hole you cut in the wood to drop the sub in. On top of that the volume of the box needs to be a specific value for each sub. MDF wood is best for box building but plywood will work too. You need to make sure that you seal the seams with wood glue and silicone sealant to prevent any leaks.

More on box building here....http://www.lalena.com/Audio/FAQ/Build/

drivelikejehu

you can most definately build a box and out of some nice 3/4" wood.

ive only seen arguements over the acoustics of wood vs mdf vs whatever, ive never heard of 'leaking air'. are you talking about it swelling or something?

SchoolZone

You sure can, and you can ship freight with that box as well. But I wouldnt put any subwoofers in it.

drivelikejehu

i have no idea, im not an expert. but ive seen speakers in boxes made of solid wood, and they sounded great, and the guy was talking about how the humity can make the wood swell and cause issues. thats all ive heard. am i mis-informed?

BigJim

so how imperitive is the cubic size of the enclosure to the sound? In order to get these to fit im not going to have a very normal shaped enclosure. I decided on 2 10" sony xplod subs btw.

jonesfromindia

the sub could blow if its too small, bottom out if its too big.

its the most important thing.

oh and BTW you are a *** for getting sony explodes. PM and ill hook you up with some great subs.


wrong. 10" is the actual driver soft parts ie. the cone and surround. not the basket.





your first box will sound like ****, but dont get discouraged. just keep builed.

use 3/4" MDF its cheapest. dont use plywood, it sucks and sounds like ***.

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

Ok, this is what we are going to do...
First off....You will build your box out of 3/4 MDF, end of story. There is no reason to build out of anything else, it's not like MDF is expensive.

Secondly, if you are in the Sony Xplode price range but want sound that doesn't suck get some Ascendant Audio Assassins

jonesfromindia

AA=<3

i can hook up anyone with TC sounds. great deals.

honegod

howcome they put the mounting gaskets on the FRONT of the speaker and then everybody mounts the speaker by dropping it into the hole in the enclosure ?

when I built the enclosure for little sisters 15" {soundstream SPL160} I made a 1" mdf plate to mount the sub to, from behind, using the gasket on the front, the plate then mounted to the box {1"mdf} with its own gasket.

so there were TWO holes for the speaker, the first hole, in the plate, was a little smaller than the standard 'drop it in' 15 hole so it matched up with the gasket on the speaker, the second hole, in the box, was a little bigger, so the whole speaker would drop inside the box.


this doesn't help with the question though.

jonesfromindia

um.....what?

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

I think I understand what you mean. Some people do an inverted sub setup like this so maybe thats why it's there....

AntiVenom7

i guess the 'gurus' have spoken. i did the paper test and couldnt find a single leak on my box, but you know, whatever floats your boat, and keeps you buying MDF. i am happy with the sound of my box, it doesn't rattle, or vibrate, and provides a cleaner sound than any of the 'professional' built stuff i have heard in other's cars.

FWIW, a high quality plywood has virtually no gaps in any of the layers, so i am not sure why it would leak anywhere, but the seams. high quality plywood is essentially solid wood. Also with my vague understanding of physics, is going to seek the easiest method of escape. In other words it is going to much rather escape throw the large port, than a small leak/gap in the wood.

again, i am not a professional, or a competition guy. i know what works for me, and am super happy with my box. again it sounds better than most of the **** i have heard, store bought, and custom made by shops.

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

Ply wood will work just fine....really it will

But it's just that MDF is exactly the same all the way through, no variation in composition. As long as you seal up the box perfectly they you will be fine. But why would you want to use plywood, it's harder to cut and the cuts aren't nearly as neat.

I would not, however, use plywood for a SEALED box! Any leak in a sealed box will make it sound like crap.

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

Here is some stuff I have build from beginning to end...
Box for an RL-i8 Sub






Two boxes for my EU700's (6.5"subs)




When they were finally done they found a home attached to the underside of my rear deck in the 6x9 locations

AntiVenom7

well, i had the plywood so that helped in the decision. you are probably right about the MDF being more consistent. but there are different grades of plywood, as i am sure you probably know, which makes all the difference.

anyhow, i have a sealed box, with no leaks. i took my time building it, and it came out fine. i have built boxes before so i guess i know what to look for. i suppose a first time builder should go with what's easiest, MDF.

here is a really bad picture of it in my 7, before i routed any of the wires. it is now facing the opposite direction(i.e. the amp faces into the trunk). it fits nice and tight between the rear shock towers.

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

^^looks good!

I agree for a first timer MDF for sure. Also, if you need to round out an edge it sands really easily.

I think with any box project though you need to make sure that you have plenty of wood glue and silicone in the seams.

jonesfromindia

just be careful about using glue and silicone.

wait for it to dry for atleast a day before you put the sub in the box. the fumes will eat through the surround of the sub.

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

I've never heard that, as far as I know every guy I know uses wood glue and silicone.

What I do is I put a bead of glue along the cut edge of the wood then I lay the other piece of wood on top of it. Use a clamp to keep them together and then drill some pilot holes for the screws. Then countersink the screws in to the boards. Then add a decent line of silicone in the seams and corners

This pic is me balancing the top piece of wood on the two vertical ones waiting for the glue to dry

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I've heard that, too. Yes, go ahead and use wood glue and silicone, it'll do the job well. Just let it air out for a while.