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Bose system

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Old 04-20-04, 05:34 PM
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Bose system

Is the system amplified? If so and soem speakers are goign bad can i replace them with any old speaker? Certain ohm rating needed? what are the sizes? Can replacement bose pieces be bought?


Or is it common practice for everyoen to just junk the system? Also if this si what shoudl be done, what all needs done to make it look as if it where never there? I know a new hatch cover, but what about strut tower covers and such?
Old 04-20-04, 05:37 PM
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I'm not super familiar with the intricate workings on the Mazda/Bose system, but I owned a '90 300Z TT with a BOSE system and the amplifiers were inline with each speaker (if I'm remembering correctly). So you either had to replace the entire system/speakers, or get a replacement stock speaker. Take this for what it's worth as I'm not 100% sure how correct this info I'm remembering is.
Old 04-20-04, 06:02 PM
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zmarko's got it basically right. This thread will probably get shoved off to the interior section, BTW...

The Bose system incorporates a head unit that puts out low level signals, much like the pre-amp outputs you find on some stereos. The signal runs to small amplifiers that are integrated into the speaker modules in the doors, plus there is a small amp that drives the center speaker, and there is an amp that drives the bass tube in the back (the amp is part of the tube).

The Bose speakers themselves are typically pretty low impedence speakers, on the 1 to 2 ohm range. This will cause many aftermarket amps being used to drive the stock speak to distort due to too high current load for a given volume. Conversely, if you replace the stock speaks with aftermarket higher impedence speakers, the sound will again distort as the amplifiers were built specifically to handle low impedence. It'll sound like crap.

SO what to do? First, search the interior section, as there are a great many different options others have taken. Given that the head unit is a low level output, you could run the output for the front speaks to a reasonable sized amp, say mounted in or near the bins, then run the speaker wire for those through the doors (a PITA, and then some), and then try to drive speaks you have mounted in the stock modules (these are big plastic lumps that hold the nearfield amplifier and provide acoustic loading of the speakers to provide that oh-so-expensive Bose sound), but this is pretty much a bitch to accomplish. Further, many folk persuing this route will pull the amp out of the module, only to find the sound isn't as good because the loading is incorrect.

Another option would be to look for small amplifiers you could mount in the doors, but that road probably leads to madness.

Or scrap it all and start fresh. New head unit with proper level outputs (say a Nakamichi CD-400 or so) that drive an amp that then drives the doors. Modify the module to properly load the aftermarket speaks. Try adding speaks to the rear pockets (again, a head unit with 4 aux outs will help here...). Finally, you CAN drive the bass tube if you want with a sub out. The center speaker can be driven from front aux outs, but you will have to split the signal.

Now, I haven't done half of what I'm talking about on my car yet, but those seem to be the options. You can also try going to the site below to see if they can help...

http://carstereohelp.net/index.htm
Old 04-20-04, 06:34 PM
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I got a wire harness for my panasonic and it worked perfect!
Old 04-21-04, 01:12 AM
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the head unit isn't the problem. You can find unpowered headunits, Eclipse makes some nice ones. What I need is extremely low impedence speakers, the search begins.

Sorry I wasn't sure about the interior section since the bose system is 3rd gen specific.
Old 05-04-04, 05:42 PM
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The search feature isn't currently working. I want to remove my non operational cd player from my bose system to install some gauges their. My question is will the system still work without the cd player or do they both need to be connected? Thx
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