Bose Headunit replacement HELP NEEDED (and I have read each and every thread on this)
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Bose Headunit replacement HELP NEEDED (and I have read each and every thread on this)
Hi, please forgive me.
I have gone through every thread I could get my hands on and I don't see the answer I am looking for.
I am aware of the Bose system architecture as I read the posts.
My intention at this time is only to remove the Bose headunit and replace it with a single DIN stereo to gain room for the installation of a few gauges. I am not going to spend incredible amounts of money in a stereo system, unless this would actually shed weight in the car; I believe that driving a sports car is more about hearing all its sounds, rather than trying to transform it into my living room to listen to music (my 2 cents).
I understand that with one adapter from Scosche I could almost do a straight through conversion. I also read that it is not the best idea. Based on what I read, it is my understanding that it would be possible to feed the Bose amps (and speakers) with an aftermarket head unit. I believe I read this in one of the posts.
Unfortunately, besides being a newbie owner (I've been reading for at least 1.5 years on this forum), I have never tackled complicated projects on this matter (a simple stereo installation and speakers installation is as far as I've gone).
Could somebody please tell me:
1) Is there anyway to wire directly?
2) If so, how do you do that (imagine you have to explain it to a 5 year old child)
Once again, apology, but although I read at least 10 different threads, I either didn't get the point or I didn't find exactly what can/cannot be done.
Please, don't put up a thread link with a picture of the wiring diagram, because until I open it up, I won't be able to really understand what is going on.
Thank you,
Giovanni
I have gone through every thread I could get my hands on and I don't see the answer I am looking for.
I am aware of the Bose system architecture as I read the posts.
My intention at this time is only to remove the Bose headunit and replace it with a single DIN stereo to gain room for the installation of a few gauges. I am not going to spend incredible amounts of money in a stereo system, unless this would actually shed weight in the car; I believe that driving a sports car is more about hearing all its sounds, rather than trying to transform it into my living room to listen to music (my 2 cents).
I understand that with one adapter from Scosche I could almost do a straight through conversion. I also read that it is not the best idea. Based on what I read, it is my understanding that it would be possible to feed the Bose amps (and speakers) with an aftermarket head unit. I believe I read this in one of the posts.
Unfortunately, besides being a newbie owner (I've been reading for at least 1.5 years on this forum), I have never tackled complicated projects on this matter (a simple stereo installation and speakers installation is as far as I've gone).
Could somebody please tell me:
1) Is there anyway to wire directly?
2) If so, how do you do that (imagine you have to explain it to a 5 year old child)
Once again, apology, but although I read at least 10 different threads, I either didn't get the point or I didn't find exactly what can/cannot be done.
Please, don't put up a thread link with a picture of the wiring diagram, because until I open it up, I won't be able to really understand what is going on.
Thank you,
Giovanni
Yes, buy a Scosche adapter, and follow the directions for how to hook it up. You should buy a wire crimper tool, and use crimped connections on the wires. (Believe it or not, this is a better connection than soldering if you have a crimping tool). I've been running my Bose system in my daily driver for 5 years with a Pioneer headunit and Scosche adapter.
I believe there are full instructions in the Audio/Visual forum. Just dig in, and if you get confused about what wires go where, ask in there.
Dave
I believe there are full instructions in the Audio/Visual forum. Just dig in, and if you get confused about what wires go where, ask in there.
Dave
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Yes, buy a Scosche adapter, and follow the directions for how to hook it up. You should buy a wire crimper tool, and use crimped connections on the wires. (Believe it or not, this is a better connection than soldering if you have a crimping tool). I've been running my Bose system in my daily driver for 5 years with a Pioneer headunit and Scosche adapter.
I believe there are full instructions in the Audio/Visual forum. Just dig in, and if you get confused about what wires go where, ask in there.
Dave
I believe there are full instructions in the Audio/Visual forum. Just dig in, and if you get confused about what wires go where, ask in there.
Dave

Thanks, I think somebody was saying it could be done without the adapter, but... I guess it's my mistake
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I understand that it'd blow easily.
I believe that somebody was saying it can be done if wired in a certain way, without blowing the system.
I am going to find the post.
I thought about using RCA out to Amp... But that is only for subs, right? Which means it would work, but out of a single channel?
I believe that somebody was saying it can be done if wired in a certain way, without blowing the system.
I am going to find the post.
I thought about using RCA out to Amp... But that is only for subs, right? Which means it would work, but out of a single channel?
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Found it
Here's the post I was referring to:
So, according to DAVE, you can splice the RCA out into the speakers leads, do I understand this correctly?
Now, the question I have is this: as far as I know, normally decks have only 2 RCAs out, don't they (which should drive the sub?) How does all that relate to this and the way it works?
Originally Posted by Dane
I specialize in Bose systems in Nissans, and the early 90's Maxima and 300ZX have virtually the same system. The only major difference is the shape of the enclosures (of course) and the harnesses are different
The front speakers are 4.5" Bose drivers and are powered by “Omega” series amps. Nissans have Sigma series amps, but in reality there is very little difference (if any) and they are interchangeable from 91 up (front amps anyway). All Bose automotive amps from 91 and up have the same modular connection...even in GM and Honda products!
The front speakers are housed in perfectly tuned enclosures, and IF powered properly, will easily sound better than 75% of all aftermarket speakers you could buy. These are the same drivers, yet with tougher cones and cloth surrounds as the $1500 Bose 901 home speakers. These were also used in virtually every Bose automotive and PA system from the early 80's up until the mid to late 90's.
BEFORE you run and buy new speakers, I advise you to take out one front enclosure / speaker assembly. Then run a wire directly to the speaker (through the port for this test). Make sure you have reassembled the enclosure 100% airtight. Then hook the speaker up to your home stereo (for testing). If you think that you can beat the sound you then hear with aftermarket speakers, go for it! I am not saying you cannot do so with enough money and time invested, but typical off the shelf stuff won’t even come close.
Next, if desired, you can easily bypass the front amps in the RX7, simply by patching the output from the tabs in the female harness connector directly to the Bose speaker using the existing pass through on the enclosure. I make (sell) bypass harnesses for Nissans, but this is somewhat unnecessary for the RX7, since the tabs are standard .250’s in the female harness at the door panel. Anyone with common sense, and a set of strippers and crimpers could make their own bypass harness in about 10 minutes without cutting a single wire in the car. If you do this, remember that the drivers are 1 ohm, so wire and / or amplify accordingly.
The rear "Wave" setup is not so great unfortunately. They use 6.75" drivers which are also the same speakers used in the 90 model Z car, as well as Legends, and GM "Gold Bose" systems. These drivers are quite unreliable in comparison to the front drivers, which are nearly bulletproof.
In my opinion, I would eliminate the rear assembly unless you simply want to keep it for conversation’s sake or to keep the car OEM looking.
Another note, the Scosche adapter isn't totally necessary, but is helpful if you are not an experienced installer. The issue I have with them is that in reality, they are also a line level converter, so your system will never sound better than the weakest link. By using one of these you introduce quite a bit of noise, due to the process of the initial amplification of the signal by the deck’s amplifier, then the conversion to low level output by the Scosche adapter, then re-amplification back to speaker level sound by the Bose amp. However most people probably couldn’t tell the difference anyway (but I can!). I have seen other adapters that convert RCA leads to simple wires, but unless this is dirt cheap, why not do this yourself? Also, these have gain controls, so once again, you would be adding noise to the original signal by processing the signal through potentiometers, PLUS low level output is several times more volnerable to noise anyway.
The alternative is to wire in the new deck, just as you would if you didn’t have a Bose equipped car. The only major difference is that you would "splice" the RCA output of the deck into the speaker leads of the harness, rather than the speaker output of the deck. Doing the latter would overdrive the Bose amps into oblivion!
Any more questions…email me direct. Also, check out my site at the link below. Although it is written for Nissan-Bose systems, almost everything will also apply to the Bose equipped RX7. I will likely add a small RX7 section soon anyway, because I am currently dealing with a 93 RX7 with the Bose system.
http://webpages.charter.net/dm1/misc/bose.htm
The front speakers are 4.5" Bose drivers and are powered by “Omega” series amps. Nissans have Sigma series amps, but in reality there is very little difference (if any) and they are interchangeable from 91 up (front amps anyway). All Bose automotive amps from 91 and up have the same modular connection...even in GM and Honda products!
The front speakers are housed in perfectly tuned enclosures, and IF powered properly, will easily sound better than 75% of all aftermarket speakers you could buy. These are the same drivers, yet with tougher cones and cloth surrounds as the $1500 Bose 901 home speakers. These were also used in virtually every Bose automotive and PA system from the early 80's up until the mid to late 90's.
BEFORE you run and buy new speakers, I advise you to take out one front enclosure / speaker assembly. Then run a wire directly to the speaker (through the port for this test). Make sure you have reassembled the enclosure 100% airtight. Then hook the speaker up to your home stereo (for testing). If you think that you can beat the sound you then hear with aftermarket speakers, go for it! I am not saying you cannot do so with enough money and time invested, but typical off the shelf stuff won’t even come close.
Next, if desired, you can easily bypass the front amps in the RX7, simply by patching the output from the tabs in the female harness connector directly to the Bose speaker using the existing pass through on the enclosure. I make (sell) bypass harnesses for Nissans, but this is somewhat unnecessary for the RX7, since the tabs are standard .250’s in the female harness at the door panel. Anyone with common sense, and a set of strippers and crimpers could make their own bypass harness in about 10 minutes without cutting a single wire in the car. If you do this, remember that the drivers are 1 ohm, so wire and / or amplify accordingly.
The rear "Wave" setup is not so great unfortunately. They use 6.75" drivers which are also the same speakers used in the 90 model Z car, as well as Legends, and GM "Gold Bose" systems. These drivers are quite unreliable in comparison to the front drivers, which are nearly bulletproof.
In my opinion, I would eliminate the rear assembly unless you simply want to keep it for conversation’s sake or to keep the car OEM looking.
Another note, the Scosche adapter isn't totally necessary, but is helpful if you are not an experienced installer. The issue I have with them is that in reality, they are also a line level converter, so your system will never sound better than the weakest link. By using one of these you introduce quite a bit of noise, due to the process of the initial amplification of the signal by the deck’s amplifier, then the conversion to low level output by the Scosche adapter, then re-amplification back to speaker level sound by the Bose amp. However most people probably couldn’t tell the difference anyway (but I can!). I have seen other adapters that convert RCA leads to simple wires, but unless this is dirt cheap, why not do this yourself? Also, these have gain controls, so once again, you would be adding noise to the original signal by processing the signal through potentiometers, PLUS low level output is several times more volnerable to noise anyway.
The alternative is to wire in the new deck, just as you would if you didn’t have a Bose equipped car. The only major difference is that you would "splice" the RCA output of the deck into the speaker leads of the harness, rather than the speaker output of the deck. Doing the latter would overdrive the Bose amps into oblivion!
Any more questions…email me direct. Also, check out my site at the link below. Although it is written for Nissan-Bose systems, almost everything will also apply to the Bose equipped RX7. I will likely add a small RX7 section soon anyway, because I am currently dealing with a 93 RX7 with the Bose system.
http://webpages.charter.net/dm1/misc/bose.htm
Now, the question I have is this: as far as I know, normally decks have only 2 RCAs out, don't they (which should drive the sub?) How does all that relate to this and the way it works?
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...I guess I'm talking to myself at this point.
I was looking at some of the decks available out there.
Some have 2 or 3 pre-out lines.
Would it then be possible to go with a 3-pre-out into centre, doors and rear?
...
I was looking at some of the decks available out there.
Some have 2 or 3 pre-out lines.
Would it then be possible to go with a 3-pre-out into centre, doors and rear?
...
Honestly the best way i would think you could do it is buy a completely passive stereo where as its pretty much just a cd/ tuner and putts out no power to the speakers. Wire it to use the stock bose speaker amps and go from there. They are out there but hard to find and a bit pricey. If you could find a way to wire up the amps for the front door speakers together then run the amps through a RCA cable and into an amp front amp output on a new deck that might work too.
Mine has fout amp outputs I could use Front, mids, rears, subs. You would have to wire the two front amps together then to the front amp output, you wouldnt want to run them all to there each own amp output cause then you would never be able to control the right speakers through the deck.
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Thanks for the input.
I managed to find some decks with 3 pre outs, but nothing else. Prices are pretty high considering that I really don't care...
Problem is, all the ones I found have only 2 volts pre out and another 4 volts.
I read on a thread that you should send no less than 4.5 to the Bose amps and that seems to be the minimum to get acceptable sound out...
It looks more and more like I am going to give up and buy the Scosche (or similar) adapter...
I managed to find some decks with 3 pre outs, but nothing else. Prices are pretty high considering that I really don't care...
Problem is, all the ones I found have only 2 volts pre out and another 4 volts.
I read on a thread that you should send no less than 4.5 to the Bose amps and that seems to be the minimum to get acceptable sound out...
It looks more and more like I am going to give up and buy the Scosche (or similar) adapter...
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Well guys, am I (or my thread, for that matter) that boring?
Or you just don't care?
I have tried to sort out my options.
I have come up with an idea and I'd like some suggestions/feedback on it.
I found a line converter that I could attach both the door amp/speakers to.
I would remove the snake from the back and mount a sub.
I would remove the centre speaker or replace it with a regular speaker and wire it to the new deck
I would use the existing wiring and simply change the connectors.
Logic:
I don't want to change the entire system because:
a) I am not attempting to create a killer system;
b) I have learned that the door speakers are very good:
c) One sub instead of the wave system would improve the sound qality
d) I cannot find the Scosche adapter anywhere around here and I don't want to wait;
e) I don't see the utility of the centre speaker
f ) I don't want to spend too much to do this (in terms of time and money)
I have however some questions.
What channels should I attach the door speakers? Front or Back (on the new deck)?
Would I be able to send both left and right front channels to the centre speaker?
Thank you...
Giovanni
Or you just don't care?

I have tried to sort out my options.
I have come up with an idea and I'd like some suggestions/feedback on it.
I found a line converter that I could attach both the door amp/speakers to.
I would remove the snake from the back and mount a sub.
I would remove the centre speaker or replace it with a regular speaker and wire it to the new deck
I would use the existing wiring and simply change the connectors.
Logic:
I don't want to change the entire system because:
a) I am not attempting to create a killer system;
b) I have learned that the door speakers are very good:
c) One sub instead of the wave system would improve the sound qality
d) I cannot find the Scosche adapter anywhere around here and I don't want to wait;
e) I don't see the utility of the centre speaker
f ) I don't want to spend too much to do this (in terms of time and money)
I have however some questions.
What channels should I attach the door speakers? Front or Back (on the new deck)?
Would I be able to send both left and right front channels to the centre speaker?
Thank you...
Giovanni
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Nobody wants to help?
Please?
BTW, I have gone to several car audio places and I am getting a bit of a run-around...
They are telling me that I cannot do this without rewiring?
Help me guys...
Please?
BTW, I have gone to several car audio places and I am getting a bit of a run-around...
They are telling me that I cannot do this without rewiring?
Help me guys...
I don't know if the current draw will go up or down if you run conventional speakers vs. Bose. If the current goes down, I'd re-use the existing wiring. The stereo shops probably won't do it because if there is a problem with the old wiring they'll be stuck in a mess.
I would not run both fronts to the center. That would destroy the stereo effect. If you're using the stock speaker locations, run the front outputs to the doors.
Dave
I would not run both fronts to the center. That would destroy the stereo effect. If you're using the stock speaker locations, run the front outputs to the doors.
Dave
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I don't know if the current draw will go up or down if you run conventional speakers vs. Bose. If the current goes down, I'd re-use the existing wiring. The stereo shops probably won't do it because if there is a problem with the old wiring they'll be stuck in a mess.
I would not run both fronts to the center. That would destroy the stereo effect. If you're using the stock speaker locations, run the front outputs to the doors.
Dave
I would not run both fronts to the center. That would destroy the stereo effect. If you're using the stock speaker locations, run the front outputs to the doors.
Dave
I need to understand this: if I simply get any line converter, can I just reuse the stock wiring, cut the connectors and either install different ones or directly crimp/solder together?
Because I could also get a stereo with preouts and wire to the Bose by making an RCA to something else connector to do the job that way...
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