Anyone Know ANYTHING About Car Stereos?
#1
Anyone Know ANYTHING About Car Stereos?
My friend is buying all this **** for me to install in his car . Amog this stuff is THREE audiobahn amps. One A235HCQ (35 watts x 2 @ 4 Ohms stereo), one A275HCQ (75 watts x 2 @ 4 Ohms stereo), and one A1500HCQ (2000 watts x 1 @ 1 Ohm mono). The 1500 is gonna run one Audiobahn 10" sub at 2000 watts @ 1 Ohm, and the others are gonna run the interior speakers (35x2 for rear, 75x2 for front). The deck is a Sony MEX-5DI, with Infinity Kappa 50.5cs for the fronts, and 32.5cf for the rears, and an Audiobahn AWT10x linear compression sub if it matters. I need to know the "rule of thumb" for capacitance (sp?). Im wondering how big of a cap hes gonna need. I remember reading somewhere that 1 farad per 1000 watts is correct, but can anyone confirm this? If this is true, Id need close to 3 farads of caps. Audiobahn sells a 3 farad cap that hes looking at (he like Audiobahn), but before he buys it, I want to be able to tell him its the right thing to buy. He drives a 92 Miata if it matters about the electrical system at all. Thanks for any help whatsoever .
~T.J.
~T.J.
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
a couple of things...
2000 watts at 1 ohm???? and you have a 1 ohm 10" speaker??? Most car audio speakers are 4 or 8 ohm with a RE of 3 to 7.5 ohms... I personally have never heard of a 1 ohm woofer. I am not saying that they don't exist, I am just saying that I have never seen one.
If that is the case and you are using a 4 ohm speaker on that amp, the power is more realisticly 250 watts not 1000 or 2000 watts.
again if that is the case, then a single farad cap would be fine for your load.
Also the load will be higher than the stock alt can handle and he will want to up grade it and the grounds for the vehicle.
2000 watts at 1 ohm???? and you have a 1 ohm 10" speaker??? Most car audio speakers are 4 or 8 ohm with a RE of 3 to 7.5 ohms... I personally have never heard of a 1 ohm woofer. I am not saying that they don't exist, I am just saying that I have never seen one.
If that is the case and you are using a 4 ohm speaker on that amp, the power is more realisticly 250 watts not 1000 or 2000 watts.
again if that is the case, then a single farad cap would be fine for your load.
Also the load will be higher than the stock alt can handle and he will want to up grade it and the grounds for the vehicle.
#4
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To Icemark: Digital Designs 9515 has an optional 1Ohm DVC setup (Each Coil is 1Ohm. Parallel = ½Ohm, Series = 2Ohm)
As per the # of Capicitors. Find the RMS of the amps @ the ohm loads they're running.
Odds are the subwoofer is a DVC 4Ohm woofer. If that's the case, then a 1.5F Cap should do.
I personally don't believe in caps. Just get a good battery, good grounding system, and an alternator that can handle a draw. This comes from my non-competition 1700Watt system, run off of an Optima Yellow-Top, Re-Spun Alternator, and 0/1Gague Wire Throughout.
As per the # of Capicitors. Find the RMS of the amps @ the ohm loads they're running.
Odds are the subwoofer is a DVC 4Ohm woofer. If that's the case, then a 1.5F Cap should do.
I personally don't believe in caps. Just get a good battery, good grounding system, and an alternator that can handle a draw. This comes from my non-competition 1700Watt system, run off of an Optima Yellow-Top, Re-Spun Alternator, and 0/1Gague Wire Throughout.
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Thats intresting the 1 ohm sub thing... whats the point though??? doesn't the amps headroom completely disappear and the THD jump radically at 1 ohm or 1/2 ohm???
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#8
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icemark you are correct that your distortion level double with doubling the load. buuttttt. most people have never heard music correctly, their best experiance is their buddies systems with way to much bass.
audiobahn as all the other mid and low end companys are only making product to make money. their equipment will not have the sonic excellence that the high end companies base the reputations on.
as far as amplifiers go
the audiobahn amps stated ran front 4 ohm, rear 4 ohm, sub 1 ohm, will pull over 200 amps of current on demand(and people always play it that loud), so the car is likely to die if you turn the stereo up. anyway
1ST you don't need 2000 wattts to a 10" sub you will blow it through the hatch.
2ND run the dvc sub series for a 4 ohm load and you will have 4 times the headroom( better response and control of the woofer)
3RD when buying audio equipment purchase on quality not how cool it looks.
audiobahn as all the other mid and low end companys are only making product to make money. their equipment will not have the sonic excellence that the high end companies base the reputations on.
as far as amplifiers go
the audiobahn amps stated ran front 4 ohm, rear 4 ohm, sub 1 ohm, will pull over 200 amps of current on demand(and people always play it that loud), so the car is likely to die if you turn the stereo up. anyway
1ST you don't need 2000 wattts to a 10" sub you will blow it through the hatch.
2ND run the dvc sub series for a 4 ohm load and you will have 4 times the headroom( better response and control of the woofer)
3RD when buying audio equipment purchase on quality not how cool it looks.
#9
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Again, I have been with companies such as ADS , BA, and MB Quart and have even worked as a east coast rep fror one of the companies above and as a installer of 10 years and having been involved in installing and setting up an IASCA 1st place trophy I will put audiobahn up against any other product on the marker, people judge them harshly because their product looks good as well as putting out excellent sound when the right level of product is purchased, so please bash all you want but I wouldnt be so sure you are right.
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excuse me roger u are misinformed, 2000 rms is the power recomended to move that cone, yeah the subs weigh 40+ pounds, and its not near over kill, after all if big is good and bigger is better, than overkill should be just enuf
#11
Hi,
1F per 1kW, that's right.
But more smaler ones are better than one big one.
Cables to the amp should be as short as possible that is works perect.
So if I were you I would add a cap to each amp.
Maybe 0,5 to each front+rear and 1,5 or 2F for sub. Then it's fine.
Tobias
1F per 1kW, that's right.
But more smaler ones are better than one big one.
Cables to the amp should be as short as possible that is works perect.
So if I were you I would add a cap to each amp.
Maybe 0,5 to each front+rear and 1,5 or 2F for sub. Then it's fine.
Tobias
#13
Hi Roger,
not my personal experiences.
Know that I do work for Europe's biggest car audio mag for about 5 year now as a sideline.
Of course one big cap at the biggest amp is enough.
But better is "to each his own".
The most important thing is to keep wires short between amp and cap. And that in most cases is not true when using one cap for more amps.
Before using a cap with a 50 inch wire, just do not use it at all.
rgs
Tobias
not my personal experiences.
Know that I do work for Europe's biggest car audio mag for about 5 year now as a sideline.
Of course one big cap at the biggest amp is enough.
But better is "to each his own".
The most important thing is to keep wires short between amp and cap. And that in most cases is not true when using one cap for more amps.
Before using a cap with a 50 inch wire, just do not use it at all.
rgs
Tobias
#14
you all sound like babys
first off audiobahn is a low grade company but you get your moneys worth for spl they are great for sq they suck . plan and simple yes for every 1000 watts 1 farad for cap is good but really you should be running another battery . caps are just an easy way to get the voltage to those amps a second battery is the way to go . if anybody disagrees they dont know **** abpout car audio . cause caps aint the way to go . second running a sub at one ohm is fine yes distortion levels go up but most likly you are using that sub for spl not sq so fine sq doesnt matter in this case , i would suggest that you use different amps for the highs and mids cause the sub is going to overpower those amps like nothing well anyway hope i was of some help
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