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Can't find any threads on Seibon Carbon Fenders (except this one briefly discussing them: https://www.rx7club.com/interior-ext...eation-638398/), they are exactly what I'm looking for, stock-looking fenders that add a little extra clearance for more meat up front (+10mm), but cant find any info on them, if any one has any experience with the quality and fitment and input is appreciated. The next best option appears to be Shine Auto Projects +20mm fenders, they are a little wider than I want but do maintain the stock-ish look.
Stock sheetmetal front fenders fit more wheel/tire than those +10s if you do a fender lip roll with slight pull and is more forgiving to impacts with tire or anything else.
The stock fender arch will get a slight oblonged arch instead of perfect arc when pulled, but otherwise look stock.
Here is my FD with 18x11 +45 and 295/30-18 and 305/30-18 up front on stock rolled fenders.
This is the only angle I notice the oblong arch from roll/pull.
See, looks normal from side.
And this is with the 305s
Volk makes TE-37 in my 18x11 +45 fitment now, so I picked up a set to replace my custom offset Forgestars.
There are some Mustang aftermarket wheels that are pretty wide in +45ish offsets you need if you want to save $.
Here is my FD with 18x11 +45 and 295/30-18 and 305/30-18 up front on stock rolled fenders.
Very nice! I have 18x10 +30 TE37SL's rn running, 255x35 up front and for context my fenders are partially rolled right now, I'm running into fender liner issues as you would expect, also I maxed out my camber but I'm still rubbing on the lip on a steep driveway entrance and unfortunately had the infamous "fender lip pull" from my tire on said driveway, so now I have to re-roll my fender again and hope I don't do it another time haha.
Anyway I figured the 3 main issues are either 1) I need to roll the fronts more aggressively based on what you're telling me, 2) I need to get stiffer spring rates for my coilovers lol, or 3) I need wider fenders.
You will ne able to make your +30 offset wheels work with 255/35-18 up front once your fender lip roll has the inside lip rolled flat against the outer sheetmetal at the top of the arch.
As you found, the plastic liner is an issue at the top of the arch with nothing to hold it.
With just the roll you can pinch the plastic between the metal layers.
Once you start to pull the fender, the plastic cant reach and hangs and gets worn away.
With your +30 offset wheels you will want the +20mm Shine fenders or better the Feed +30mm (but I understand wanting a more stock look) if you want to try wider 285/30-18.
Feed runs 18x11 +30 295/30-18 with their +30mm fenders.
With +20mm fenders you should be abe to run 285/30-18 with max camber.
Dont try 265/35-18, they are too tall and rub by the headlight when turning.
You will ne able to make your +30 offset wheels work with 255/35-18 up front once your fender lip roll has the inside lip rolled flat against the outer sheetmetal at the top of the arch.
As you found, the plastic liner is an issue at the top of the arch with nothing to hold it.
With just the roll you can pinch the plastic between the metal layers.
Once you start to pull the fender, the plastic cant reach and hangs and gets worn away.
With your +30 offset wheels you will want the +20mm Shine fenders or better the Feed +30mm (but I understand wanting a more stock look) if you want to try wider 285/30-18.
Feed runs 18x11 +30 295/30-18 with their +30mm fenders.
With +20mm fenders you should be abe to run 285/30-18 with max camber.
Dont try 265/35-18, they are too tall and rub by the headlight when turning.
Appreciate all the info, right now it's rubbing the fender at the apex of the wheel in the front and the back (90 degrees and 270 degrees) from what I've read this is because with my 255/35 tires the overall diameter is 25 inches which is too large of a diameter for the FD with fender liners.
I've also considered the Feed fronts as well but the only issue with that is im assuming it would look super wonky with Feed front fenders yet stock fenders in the rear, so it seems like the shine 20mm fronts are the best stockish option.
At the end of the day im just pissed someone doesn't make a 1/2 fender liners (at least i haven't found any yet) that just covers the front hole that's open to the engine bay as that's the main reason im so hell-bent on keeping the liners.
We installed a set of the seibon fenders for a customer and they are typical seibon quality...... very high. You have to drill holes for the lower mount points though. Fitment is very unique as you have to install them in sections working from the door out to the bumper. They need to be massaged and pulled in various directions, tighten then loosened and then tightened again. We're not a body shop so that may be typical of stuff like that for all we know.
It's a tedious process but worthwhile if you're going for that look. No shaving was required of the fendes or the car. If you don't have the patience to spend 4 or 5 hours to install a set of fenders, it would be best to hand it to a body shop. Once you get them on correctly, they fit extremely close to stock. Very clean and even gaps all around. He is using a seibon hood, stock headlights and an oem 99 bumper without the skeleton but with the support.
I agree with Blue TII as well. I'd personally have a body shop handle the entire job and I'm skeptical on how well they'll hold up with practical / street use in the event you experience any type of actual roads conditions. And they'll look much better when painted too imo. GL!
We installed a set of the seibon fenders for a customer and they are typical seibon quality...... very high. You have to drill holes for the lower mount points though. Fitment is very unique as you have to install them in sections working from the door out to the bumper. They need to be massaged and pulled in various directions, tighten then loosened and then tightened again. We're not a body shop so that may be typical of stuff like that for all we know.
It's a tedious process but worthwhile if you're going for that look. No shaving was required of the fendes or the car. If you don't have the patience to spend 4 or 5 hours to install a set of fenders, it would be best to hand it to a body shop. Once you get them on correctly, they fit extremely close to stock. Very clean and even gaps all around. He is using a seibon hood, stock headlights and an oem 99 bumper without the skeleton but with the support.
Really appreciate the insight, what do you mean exactly by "massaging"? Are you simply referring to having to loosen the bolts and adjust each part of the fender to line up with each body panel?
something like that... the fender actually needs to be pulled and pressed and pushed to sit where you would want it. as in you need to hold it in a certain location and then tighten the bolt. if/when you loosen that bolt then the fender will move on its own. its basically under a bit tension in multiple directions. i think over time of being bolted down it will take on a new "shape" so it will be more relaxed.
something like that... the fender actually needs to be pulled and pressed and pushed to sit where you would want it. as in you need to hold it in a certain location and then tighten the bolt. if/when you loosen that bolt then the fender will move on its own. its basically under a bit tension in multiple directions. i think over time of being bolted down it will take on a new "shape" so it will be more relaxed.
Ah okay that makes sense, that's basically what i was envisioning, just didn't know if you meant to take a heat gun to it and literally try and warp it into place haha.
Thank you again for the reply, it seems there's barely any info out there on these fenders, also glad to hear Seibon quality is still good.
Ah okay that makes sense, that's basically what i was envisioning, just didn't know if you meant to take a heat gun to it and literally try and warp it into place haha.
Thank you again for the reply, it seems there's barely any info out there on these fenders, also glad to hear Seibon quality is still good.
Most consumer grade fiberglass and carbon fiber parts fit poorly and require a few combined hours of heat gun, adjustment, and bracketry.
03-02-23, 10:23 PM
