View Poll Results: which one would you put on a stock bumper?
99 spec lip spoiler
72
60.50%
r1 lip spoiler
47
39.50%
Voters: 119. You may not vote on this poll
99 spec lip spoiler or R1 lip spoiler?
10-18-02, 01:52 AM
#27
Hi sir
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Modesto/Rancho Cordova CA
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Looks: This is totally up to the user. The '99 lip is more aggressive and a bit lower. The R1/R2 lip is nice too!
Price: The '99 lip can be found for about 1/2 the price of a new R lip.
Fit: The R lip fits perfectly as it was made to go with the car. I don't think the touring has the ducts under the car however (not sure) that shoot air at the brakes.
The '99 lip fit is close. You need to cut off a few small tabs on the lip and redrill two holes at the ends to get it to line up with the fender. It will stick out about 3/4 inch on the outside of the brake ducts on the front of the car but you can't see it really as it is black. It does not line up with the stock ducts. And you will scrape on everything (same as R lip
)
Function: The newer lip serves to reroute air around the front of the car. On the newer nose air was spilling out of the nose and going under the car, The old nose?? However it should force more air around the car rather that under. This will aid downforce, Unless you are dragging (and going faster that most of us ever will in the 1/4) it will have little impact on speed and a positive one on stability in a road or drag situation.
If you look at most real drag cars they have serious air dams to keep air from going under the car.
Price: The '99 lip can be found for about 1/2 the price of a new R lip.
Fit: The R lip fits perfectly as it was made to go with the car. I don't think the touring has the ducts under the car however (not sure) that shoot air at the brakes.
The '99 lip fit is close. You need to cut off a few small tabs on the lip and redrill two holes at the ends to get it to line up with the fender. It will stick out about 3/4 inch on the outside of the brake ducts on the front of the car but you can't see it really as it is black. It does not line up with the stock ducts. And you will scrape on everything (same as R lip
) Function: The newer lip serves to reroute air around the front of the car. On the newer nose air was spilling out of the nose and going under the car, The old nose?? However it should force more air around the car rather that under. This will aid downforce, Unless you are dragging (and going faster that most of us ever will in the 1/4) it will have little impact on speed and a positive one on stability in a road or drag situation.
If you look at most real drag cars they have serious air dams to keep air from going under the car.
10-18-02, 06:22 AM
#28
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Mazdabation
.
$800 bucks.....where you buying from??
you can get them $450 shipped to you from 4jspec.com
I assume you have never seen the real ones to be able to see the diffference? You think there is black paint or your carbon fiber just slapped on JDM ones to make them look round?
the U.S spec lenses are flat the whole way through........the J-spec is also flat, except where the round part of the lens is. this part of the lense actually bubbles out (3-D) to give them a more round effect
.
$800 bucks.....where you buying from??
you can get them $450 shipped to you from 4jspec.com
I assume you have never seen the real ones to be able to see the diffference? You think there is black paint or your carbon fiber just slapped on JDM ones to make them look round?
the U.S spec lenses are flat the whole way through........the J-spec is also flat, except where the round part of the lens is. this part of the lense actually bubbles out (3-D) to give them a more round effect
I made mine and I love them. I'm gonna do it over again just to make it perfect. There is a feeling of satisfaction when you do or make something yourself instead of handing over you wallet to someone else.
10-18-02, 11:42 AM
#30
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally posted by vudoodoodoo
OK. You go spend $450 on the tailights and I'll spend $450 on an engine mod, say.. exhaust or downpipe. I'll be speeding away and all you'll see is my home made tail lights.
I made mine and I love them. I'm gonna do it over again just to make it perfect. There is a feeling of satisfaction when you do or make something yourself instead of handing over you wallet to someone else.
OK. You go spend $450 on the tailights and I'll spend $450 on an engine mod, say.. exhaust or downpipe. I'll be speeding away and all you'll see is my home made tail lights.
I made mine and I love them. I'm gonna do it over again just to make it perfect. There is a feeling of satisfaction when you do or make something yourself instead of handing over you wallet to someone else.
10-19-02, 03:30 PM
#32
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: KC
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like the looks of the 99 spec better as well and it's cheaper to boot.
The only thing you'll need to do to the 99 lip is shave off a couple of tabs on the top of the lip and drill a couple of new holes on the ends so that they can be secured to the bumper near the wheels. It's really easy and only takes a few minutes to do.
The only thing you'll need to do to the 99 lip is shave off a couple of tabs on the top of the lip and drill a couple of new holes on the ends so that they can be secured to the bumper near the wheels. It's really easy and only takes a few minutes to do.
10-21-02, 12:31 PM
#34
2 babies - no back seats
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: N. Wilm., Delaware?
Posts: 981
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CorkSport or the RX7Store has the best deals on the '99 I've seen. I have a pretty good deal on the R1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...870525694&rd=1
10-22-02, 01:58 PM
#37
Ex fd *****
You can also find used ones fo cheap - Just spray it with some DupliColor Truck Bed Liner (comes in a spray can) it sticks better and is much more scratch resistant than then the spray Undercoaters, Its thick enough to fill in most the scratches and gouges and is very flexible.
10-22-02, 02:26 PM
#38
I'll submit the following and let the rest of you guys hash it out.
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/lipntail.htm
As for the $450 rear tailights...go ahead and waste your money - my opinion It'd be $400 better spent on other things
Regards,
Crispy
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/lipntail.htm
As for the $450 rear tailights...go ahead and waste your money - my opinion
It'd be $400 better spent on other thingsRegards,
Crispy
10-22-02, 03:02 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: bay area
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by GoodfellaFD3S
I agree. Why blow cash when you don't have to? I've parked next to Ari Yallon's drag car (which has the real 99 spec lights) and made the comparison from all angles. The difference is negligible in my opinion.
I agree. Why blow cash when you don't have to? I've parked next to Ari Yallon's drag car (which has the real 99 spec lights) and made the comparison from all angles. The difference is negligible in my opinion.
I did the conversion myself prior to getting the JDM ones. The difference is that the JDM's circle are not formed by paint on the lens, the inside piece that lights up is actually made up of three circles instead of the rectangular ones found on the 93-95. Therefore, if you look at the fake ones at an angle (like from a lane over in your blind spot) the circles that you've created to imitate the JDM ones would end up looking more like a "D" which looks stupid IMO. I ended up selling mine on ebay for $250 and got these for under $500. Money well spent? I would say so. A waste of money?? NO WAY! For those of you who've never seen a pair of real ones before and are saying that they're a waste of money should go see for yourselves.
As far as the 99 lip goes, very simple...
take the old lips (those superthin ones) off, separate those 2 pieces and do them one at a time. Line them up at the center (where the 2 pieces joint) with the 99 spec ones one on top of the other, and take some whiteout to mark where the holes of the old ones are, next drill the holes and that's pretty much it.
ps. I'm planning to go 99 spec all the way eventually so that might have affected my 99 lights decision.
Last edited by DRAG0NEER; 10-22-02 at 03:06 PM.
10-31-02, 03:16 PM
#41
Meesto Spakaro
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
new R1 lip
IMO the stock R1 lip matches the lines of the series 6 facia better than the '99 spec. '99 spec is nice and more functional, but it's lines dont match as well
IMO the stock R1 lip matches the lines of the series 6 facia better than the '99 spec. '99 spec is nice and more functional, but it's lines dont match as well
11-14-02, 10:34 PM
#43
ok guys (and girls), think about it. Mazdabation spent over 450 (800??) bones on his taillights. Is he gonna argue that they're better?? hell yeah. I think I would even argue that. it's a pride thing. i haven't ever seen the REAL 99 lights in person, but from pictures, they look damn near identical to my "crappy" painted ones. good enough to convince me to save my 400 and spend it on something more worth while.
11-14-02, 10:48 PM
#44
The Cursed FD
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: CA
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by xurotaryrocket
bottom line....
The "do-it-yourself" 99 tails are HALF ***. Do it right or don't do it at all.
bottom line....
The "do-it-yourself" 99 tails are HALF ***. Do it right or don't do it at all.
Please tell me you were joking.
04-04-03, 03:57 AM
#46
Senior Member
think they are cast into the older jdm wheels
http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b35559551
eric e
http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b35559551
eric e
04-04-03, 08:45 AM
#47
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grapevine,TX
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
