Haltech Zeroing Timing
04-20-02, 04:56 PM
#1
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Zeroing Timing
When I zero my timing my L1 and T1 are right on the money.
My L2 and T2 are not even close!
Could it be 90 degrees out?
Would it even run if it was?
My L2 and T2 are not even close!
Could it be 90 degrees out?
Would it even run if it was?
04-20-02, 05:41 PM
#2
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Well... forget that idea!
I moved the CAS 90 degrees and it does the same thing?
It seems to run a little better, but I still hear detonation at around 10 PSI in 3rd gear?
I moved the CAS 90 degrees and it does the same thing?
It seems to run a little better, but I still hear detonation at around 10 PSI in 3rd gear?
04-20-02, 08:38 PM
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Holy crap it's too rich!  You're over 5ms at 10-12psi!  That's way too much gas unless you're running a bridgeport? 
Yeah, if it sputters, it's too rich.  If it's lean, the car will "surge" (buck back and forth lightly).  Rich condition will just supress power...
-Ted
Yeah, if it sputters, it's too rich.  If it's lean, the car will "surge" (buck back and forth lightly).  Rich condition will just supress power...
-Ted
04-20-02, 10:49 PM
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Re: Zeroing Timing
Originally posted by RXTASY1
When I zero my timing my L1 and T1 are right on the money.
My L2 and T2 are not even close!
Could it be 90 degrees out?
Would it even run if it was?
When I zero my timing my L1 and T1 are right on the money.
My L2 and T2 are not even close!
Could it be 90 degrees out?
Would it even run if it was?
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04-21-02, 12:06 AM
#8
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Re: Re: Zeroing Timing
Originally posted by TonyTurboII
I was to the understanding that timing readings are only taken off the first rotor.
I was to the understanding that timing readings are only taken off the first rotor.
Yeah, something is very wrong.  Either the wiring is incorrectly installed, or your settings is set incorrectly.
If L1 and T2 are spot on, L2 should at LEAST be the same - the L1 and L2 fires at the same time!  Are you running some funky kind of L1/L2 split through the Haltech???
-Ted
04-21-02, 10:02 AM
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L1 and T1 are dead on.
L2 and T2 are the ones that aren't.
No, I'm not running any weird split.
It must be somewhere in the wiring.
I have double checked the trailing coil wiring. Maybe I should check the CAS and leading coil wiring?
Originally I thought that maybe I put my pulleys on wrong, but I have heard that they go on only one way.
Ted, I will send you the map I am using along with yesterdays datalog.
Could you figure it out by looking at that?
L2 and T2 are the ones that aren't.
No, I'm not running any weird split.
It must be somewhere in the wiring.
I have double checked the trailing coil wiring. Maybe I should check the CAS and leading coil wiring?
Originally I thought that maybe I put my pulleys on wrong, but I have heard that they go on only one way.
Ted, I will send you the map I am using along with yesterdays datalog.
Could you figure it out by looking at that?
04-21-02, 11:09 AM
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I went out and tripple checked the wiring.
The leading coil, trailing coil, and CAS are all wired according to Hittman's wiring specs.
I guess that leaves one thing. My pulley. I will take that off and check it today.
The leading coil, trailing coil, and CAS are all wired according to Hittman's wiring specs.
I guess that leaves one thing. My pulley. I will take that off and check it today.
04-21-02, 03:13 PM
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Here is a 1st. thru 4th. data log at WOT to around 6k.
At around 5k in 3rd. gear I hear the tat-a-tat-tat sound and I let off of it.
Maybe my timing is too advanced?
At around 5k in 3rd. gear I hear the tat-a-tat-tat sound and I let off of it.
Maybe my timing is too advanced?
04-21-02, 06:04 PM
#12
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You might want to shoot it a little bit more fuel...
Hey, if you do send over your map, can you send over the Haltech program itself?  I hosed my old Halteh proggie when my HD crashed a month ago...
The map is useless without the Haltech proggie.
-Ted
Hey, if you do send over your map, can you send over the Haltech program itself?  I hosed my old Halteh proggie when my HD crashed a month ago...
The map is useless without the Haltech proggie.
-Ted
04-21-02, 06:55 PM
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I'm no expert at this by any means, but I read awhile ago that 15 degrees BTDC was as far as you're supposed to go while boosting -- you're running 36 in one of the logs! When you're runing 17, it looks like the car is quite lean (?)
04-21-02, 07:05 PM
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I think around 850 mv is where you want it.
I'm running 900+
With no boost, you can advance your timing as much as you want.
I advanced 1 degree tonight in all RPM ranges, and it ran a lot better?
My Greedy a/f gauge is always reading around 11 or 12.
Nowhere near stoich.
I'm running 900+
With no boost, you can advance your timing as much as you want.
I advanced 1 degree tonight in all RPM ranges, and it ran a lot better?
My Greedy a/f gauge is always reading around 11 or 12.
Nowhere near stoich.
04-24-02, 12:26 AM
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Originally posted by SPEED_NYC
c'mon tell us the other prob. i might make that same (stupid) mistake tomorow...
c'mon tell us the other prob. i might make that same (stupid) mistake tomorow...
04-24-02, 02:22 AM
#22
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Yeah man, cause it wasn't your Haltech set-up!  Everything looked fine, except you need to tweak the maps more, but it would've have thrown the ignition off that badly...
I'm curious also!
Hey, if you're that embarassed, you can always send it through email in my .sig...
-Ted
I'm curious also!
Hey, if you're that embarassed, you can always send it through email in my .sig...
-Ted
04-24-02, 08:58 AM
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OK! I had the leading plug wires on the trailing plugs and the trailing plug wires on the leading plugs!
What's weird is I had 2 other guys that knew rotarys look at it, and they didn't pick it up either!
Sometimes you are so busy looking for big problems, that you neglect to look at the little ones!
What's weird is I had 2 other guys that knew rotarys look at it, and they didn't pick it up either!
Sometimes you are so busy looking for big problems, that you neglect to look at the little ones!
