Haltech tweak's e11v2 thread : noob needs help.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
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From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
tweak's e11v2 thread : noob needs help.
Hello. I have an e11v2, I got it wired it and everything is going as planned so far.
I am at the stage, where I have successfully adjusted the gains, and I have got RPM signal.
I checked the ignition and I have leading spark but no trailing. I figured for now that is ok.
I connected the fuel back up and started the car and it ran for like 2 seconds, and then fell on its face from to much fuel. I will turn off the fuel pump and crank it and it will start again, and then die (from it clearing out the fuel).
I'm not even going to act like I know what I am doing, cause I don't, but I need to get this car to idle asap.
For now I was wondering, how do I adjust the idle fuel map so I get less fuel?
Thank you.
~Tweak
(Backgound on car and such):
13b-RE
stock FC cas
Stock FC ignitors
60-1 turbo
550 primary
1600 secondary
I am at the stage, where I have successfully adjusted the gains, and I have got RPM signal.
I checked the ignition and I have leading spark but no trailing. I figured for now that is ok.
I connected the fuel back up and started the car and it ran for like 2 seconds, and then fell on its face from to much fuel. I will turn off the fuel pump and crank it and it will start again, and then die (from it clearing out the fuel).
I'm not even going to act like I know what I am doing, cause I don't, but I need to get this car to idle asap.
For now I was wondering, how do I adjust the idle fuel map so I get less fuel?
Thank you.
~Tweak
(Backgound on car and such):
13b-RE
stock FC cas
Stock FC ignitors
60-1 turbo
550 primary
1600 secondary
Seems you're thorough enough that you've probably read the manual? I don't want to be the "search" guy but this is well covered in the manual.
The short answer is when the engine is running and you have the 2d map open you can hit the home key to take you to the current rpm range. You can then follow the green tracer arrow to see which load bar the engine is running on. At that point just click, click, click the down arrow to lower the to lower the on time. Page up, page down are more gross adjustments than the arrow keys. Lots more hot keys. Read the manual and the help section of halwin.
The short answer is when the engine is running and you have the 2d map open you can hit the home key to take you to the current rpm range. You can then follow the green tracer arrow to see which load bar the engine is running on. At that point just click, click, click the down arrow to lower the to lower the on time. Page up, page down are more gross adjustments than the arrow keys. Lots more hot keys. Read the manual and the help section of halwin.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 2
From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
Ok, well I sat down with my new remote tuner BDC (the greatest guy in the whole world) and we got things semi working.
I can get it to rev, for like 1 second then it dies I think from toooo much fuel. I have a few things that concern me right now.
1. Injecotor duty cycle is 100%. O.o I am pretty sure that is bad.
2. I seems as though i am only pulling between -.1 and -.9 vac ... is that ok?
Here is a picture

Any opinions would be awesome.
At least I know the engine is in good shape, it runs on both rotors it seems.
I can get it to rev, for like 1 second then it dies I think from toooo much fuel. I have a few things that concern me right now.
1. Injecotor duty cycle is 100%. O.o I am pretty sure that is bad.
2. I seems as though i am only pulling between -.1 and -.9 vac ... is that ok?
Here is a picture

Any opinions would be awesome.
At least I know the engine is in good shape, it runs on both rotors it seems.
Appears you MAP sensor isn't working properly. A rough correlation is 1 PSI = 2 in/hg. So you should be seeing negative 6-10 psi manifold pressure at idle depending on port, condition of the engine, etc. You're essentially seeing atmospheric conditions so the MAP sensor isn't doing it's job.
From the data trace I would guess your TPS is jacked up too. Hard to tell. Have you calibrated it and ensured it reads correctly?
Get the MAP sensor figured out and the TPS then we'll worry about the injector duty.
From the data trace I would guess your TPS is jacked up too. Hard to tell. Have you calibrated it and ensured it reads correctly?
Get the MAP sensor figured out and the TPS then we'll worry about the injector duty.
Appears you MAP sensor isn't working properly. A rough correlation is 1 PSI = 2 in/hg. So you should be seeing negative 6-10 psi manifold pressure at idle depending on port, condition of the engine, etc. You're essentially seeing atmospheric conditions so the MAP sensor isn't doing it's job.
From the data trace I would guess your TPS is jacked up too. Hard to tell. Have you calibrated it and ensured it reads correctly?
Get the MAP sensor figured out and the TPS then we'll worry about the injector duty.[/QUOTE]
I agree. You and I are on the same page, Chris.
B
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
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From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
ok ... well I have been doing some tests, and it doesn't seem like my engine is pulling ... any vac. at all. I hooked up my electronic boost gauge and it only reads like 4 inHg when it revs all high and dies. Nothing while cranking. I guess I have a vac leak somewhere between my LIM and the engine. O.o
I took off the LIM and checked things out, everything seemed fine. I would think that there would have to be a pretty HUGE leak to cause almost no vac.
What inHg should I see while cranking (not while it is running) just so I know when I finally fixed/found it.
Thanks
~Tweak
I took off the LIM and checked things out, everything seemed fine. I would think that there would have to be a pretty HUGE leak to cause almost no vac.
What inHg should I see while cranking (not while it is running) just so I know when I finally fixed/found it.
Thanks
~Tweak
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 2
From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
Ok, so I think ... I might have fixed it some when I re-set the LIM. Or maybe it was just because I Didn't have it at WOT time time, but I was able to make -5.3 psi on the last few startups.

Is this better? I had to let go of the gas for it to register the -5 ...but that is normal right? I wouldn't think I Would have much vac when I had the throttle open..
Another good one.

Is this better? I had to let go of the gas for it to register the -5 ...but that is normal right? I wouldn't think I Would have much vac when I had the throttle open..
Another good one.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
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From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
When I crank with at WOT (to de-flood the engine) I get -.1 or 0 vac, but if I do it without opening the throttle I Get -1.1. Is that at all close to normal? This is a fresh rebuilt motor.
HERE is a good one. I DISCONNECTED the power to my fuel pump. For SOME REASON (I don't know how haha) it will run for DAYS like this. (no power going to the fuel pump, and no fuel). The primary injectors must be getting gravity fed from the secondary rail or something.

As you can see I am getting vac... so it seems like I just need to .... take fuel out or something? Is -4.7 vac ok at 10% throttle? (sorry for all the questions guys, I am really lost here. Slowly I am starting to figure it out.
HERE is a good one. I DISCONNECTED the power to my fuel pump. For SOME REASON (I don't know how haha) it will run for DAYS like this. (no power going to the fuel pump, and no fuel). The primary injectors must be getting gravity fed from the secondary rail or something.

As you can see I am getting vac... so it seems like I just need to .... take fuel out or something? Is -4.7 vac ok at 10% throttle? (sorry for all the questions guys, I am really lost here. Slowly I am starting to figure it out.
Last edited by TweakGames; Jul 24, 2008 at 02:46 PM.
That's not a lot of vacuum if it's a street port. But you have a lot of issues to work through before you worry about how much vacuum it's pulling. Having been flooded repeatedly the chambers are washed down with fuel so the vacuum numbers right now are pretty irrelevant.
Sounds like you have the issues worked out with the MAP sensor. Now just work on getting the fuel trimmed out to get it to idle on it's own.
Sounds like you have the issues worked out with the MAP sensor. Now just work on getting the fuel trimmed out to get it to idle on it's own.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 2
From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
Awesome! Thank you! I am trying to figure out fuel right now. A lot harder than it sounds it seems. I have been trying to get the injector duty cycle down by making fuel map 1's times lower, but it doesnt seem to help. Even if I take them all the way down to 0 it still injects to much fuel and the injector duty cycle is still in the 60s.... I fear I am doing something wrong, I Will read the manual again.
And yeup, I see where I am going wrong, I only adjusted fuel for 0 rpm. *you may laugh now*
And yeup, I see where I am going wrong, I only adjusted fuel for 0 rpm. *you may laugh now*
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 2
From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
It was yes.... and it was running good.
But ... I need to just turn these injectors down ... What is an average duty cycle for no load idling for 550 primarys about?
But ... I need to just turn these injectors down ... What is an average duty cycle for no load idling for 550 primarys about?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 2
From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
ok, I am starting to think I have an injector stuck open or something... I DISABLED injectors in the options, and it still starts and runs for a second and then turns off from to much fuel... args, why can't anything be easy?
Awesome! Thank you! I am trying to figure out fuel right now. A lot harder than it sounds it seems. I have been trying to get the injector duty cycle down by making fuel map 1's times lower, but it doesnt seem to help. Even if I take them all the way down to 0 it still injects to much fuel and the injector duty cycle is still in the 60s.... I fear I am doing something wrong, I Will read the manual again.
And yeup, I see where I am going wrong, I only adjusted fuel for 0 rpm. *you may laugh now*
And yeup, I see where I am going wrong, I only adjusted fuel for 0 rpm. *you may laugh now*
Do you have the zero throttle map enabled? What correction maps are enabled and active. Open the fuel corrections screen and see what it says. Are you sure it's running of fuel map 1 and not 2?
That was what I was alluding to with my question. Even without rail pressure, if an injector is stuck opening the engine can actually syphon gas into itself and run.....I've had it happen once on a jspec.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 2
From: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
turns out the map I got was fu-bar'ed to say the least. BDC sat and made a map for me that was amazing and it fires right up now!
Watch out for "13BT_E8_Toggle_550-1600.zip" it seems to have some problems.
Watch out for "13BT_E8_Toggle_550-1600.zip" it seems to have some problems.
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