Haltech Things are not getting better with my t2.
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Rotodeus
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Things are not getting better with my t2.
My T2 was running and I ended up taking off the intake manifold because the line for the fpr was not on and when I put it back on, the car wouldn't start. A few times it would grab and almost get going but wouldn't start. I have removed the plugs and cranked the starter to deflood it, I've tried disabling the injectors and it doesn't even sputter the engine. I checked my sensors and found that my coolant temp sensor was not registering correctly so I fiddled with the wires and got it to work right. I hooked up a timing light and saw that I was now getting spark on the front primary but not the rear. I'm guessing this is just the timing light since it's a wasted spark system and I don't see how it could spark one but not the other? I'll double check that. The car will not even come near starting now it seems, I'm not sure why. I've got plenty of gas, the car was able to run previously and started up wtihout trouble but all of the sudden it seems to be a probelm. I've tried leaving it sitting overnight after deflooding with the plugs out so it could air out a little and then did the deflood again without luck. I know I'm getting plenty of fuel as when I crank it a few times, you can start to see vapors coming out of the tail pipe. I calibrated the TPS (it's the stock s4 one), I have zeroed the timing. The battery is running plenty of volts. Any ideas?
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I got the car to start up finally and it's running pretty damn rough. I had a problem with the timing being zeroed yet it would miss every few times the timing light would flash. I've added a ground strap to the coil bracket to make sure it's got a good ground connection, grounded the block with an extra strap and have no idea what would cause this. Anyone have any ideas?
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i've got mine at 4.5, so i think that should be fine for starters.
like with my igniton problem, have you checked to make sure hte cranking rpm's are steady?
like with my igniton problem, have you checked to make sure hte cranking rpm's are steady?
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that's funny then... but if it was working fine before the manifold came off, something must have changed.
have you tried dumping more gas in. if it ran with the line to the fpr off, fuel pressure would be a lot lower with it on. maybe go into the injector trims and turn the primaries up--if that works, then you can play with the map.
have you tried dumping more gas in. if it ran with the line to the fpr off, fuel pressure would be a lot lower with it on. maybe go into the injector trims and turn the primaries up--if that works, then you can play with the map.
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I did some more checking and found that the signal wire for the lead coil fires very erraticly if at all so I'm going to check that wire at the ecu, then after the adapter and figure out where the fault is. If it's not in that line, it's either in the CAS line (Which would give an erratic idle speed reading so I doubt it) or it's the ecu.
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I agree, if its running worse now, it could be a number of things but most likely its one of a few vacuum-related things. Check your AFRs first via a wideband if you have one. If not, jack around with the injector values at start and idle. If that doesn't fix it, check for a major vacuum leak. Make sure you reconnected the MAP sensor to a good port (on FC you want to use the bottom port on the front side of the stock turbo manifold). Make sure the other unused ports are blocked off. Etc... also make sure you didn't knock your CAS or anything. Reshoot your timing if in doubt.
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