bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

Getting ready to install the Sprint RE into the FC and I have a question about tying in the AEM Water Meth Failsafe. The AEM Water Meth Fail safe has two wires that come from the gauge, a yellow and a blue one. One is a positive 12v activated (high side) and the other wire is a 12v ground activated (low side). The idea behind the failsafe is that when controller determines there is an alarm, such as running out of meth, or a leaky line, or low flow or whatever, the alarm triggers those wires. Usually within Milliseconds. I assume that those wires (or wire) are somehow tied into your EMS and when the alarm is activated, a safe map is activated and your timing is retarded so you dont smoke your engine. That's how it works in theory anyway.

Here are my questions:

Which wire from the gauge would I tie into the haltech ? and do I tie it into one of the available output wires?

Is the Sprint RE capable of holding two maps and how do tuners set it up so the "Failsafe Map" is activated in case an alarm is triggered?

I am doing the install, but I am going to have it professionally tuned. Is this something I should be worrying about or should I just tell the tuner to take care of it and figure it out?

Any help or response would be appreciated. I'm great at installing stuff and this will be my second haltech install. However, sadly, I don't know squat about tuning, so....

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Not a whole lot you can do with the Sprint. You could tie the output in the 2-step input. You could also setup a normally closed relay powering the ignition and have the failsafe open the relay and shut down the ignition in case of a fault.

bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

Thank you sir. I was hoping you would answer this. Any idea how I could wire in that relay to the ignition? That would definitely be the way to go. The 12v+ could switch the relay open and shut it down. Definitely want to save the two step for sure.

bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

I'm thinking that if I run the normally closed relay between the fuse block and pin 30 on the ignition power relay, that would work wouldn't it? The normally closed relay would allow power to flow through as long as everything was working properly, (no alarm from the failsafe). Once the alarm triggers the normally closed relay to open, the circuit would be interrupted and ignition would be cut to the engine, thereby, theoretically saving it. C. Ludwig tell me if you think this would work.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

That's what I was thinking.