Nige

If you don't connect the warning light you are just being lazy IMO. It's a nice warning.

Kalle

Everything will be connected but the priority right now is to get the car running. Dont even got the dashboard/warning clusterst in the car right now.

Nige

Ah, I see

Kalle

Still havent got the alternator to work.. I have rewired the alternator and it now runs: Battery - Starter - Side of fusebox - Alternator. And then a small wire from the upper terminal on the alternator. According to this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ernator+wiring

That should be all thats needed

And to make all clear this is on an FC with FD REW engine. The fusebox is stock FC. This is a pic from todays attempt




And I also need to know if its OK to take power to the LS2 coils from the ignition switch?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Your "trigger before last home" is wrong, which means you have a trigger issue. Should be 12 at all times.

The coils can be power through the Haltech harness. There is provision built into the harness for just such a purpose. I would not run the coils through the ignition switch. If you must use an alternate method, source power directly from the battery through a fuse and relay.

Do you have a warning light connected to the "s" terminal of the alternator? If you don't have anything connected to this terminal the alternator will not charge.

Kalle

Really? This is from Claudios "ins and outs of a haltech installation"

"The Home will count from 0-7 and restart counting, the trigger will count from 0-255 and restart counting, and in the trigger before last home, if all is working correctly, it should display a stead 2 all the time, if you see it alternate to anything other than 2, check the Home settings."

I have Haltech e6x.

Ok, I didnt find any dedicated power wire in the ignition loom when installing. I guess there are alternative wires that can be used?

I have no warning light connected since I read that it will work without it, but I guess not. I have no dash in the car now, can I connect a temporary light until I do? And what should be used?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

it would make more sense doing it ludwig's way as there are 12 triggers 30 degree each --> 360 degrees

and one home......

on the alternator -

Like i said earlier you will need both wires.

use a 12V switched ignition source (haltech one would work fine) for the other terminal.

If you don't use a switch source it will drain your battery (constantly providing excitation current from the exciter to the rotor).

Refer to the functional drawing i posted earlier.

If that doesn't work you'll need to put a resistor to draw more current (or a light - the FD uses a 1.4w light)

This is in addition to the wire you have (the voltage sensing).



One method to make this easy for you (but not right) is use a switch ignition for both wires.........
(BTW that doesn't mean from the ignition key - just means there is voltage when the car is running and no voltage when it is off)

If this is a temp setup just have a jumper that connects both terminals to 12V source and unplug it when the car is off (so won't drain your battery)......

Kalle

Thank you.

What do I need to do to get the Trigger before last home count right? I have always seen 2, sometimes it has jumped to 3.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Claudio is probably correct. He should know anyway. In all honesty, I have never used the trigger diagnostics on an E6X. The newer ECUs (E8/11 and Platinums) all will show 12 as the count before last home, but they are a completely different circuit structure than the E6 series.

During the screen shot above, were you just cranking the engine on the starter or did you actually start it? Showing 2000 rpm would indicate you managed to get it started. You should only see 400-500 rpm while cranking. Again, if it's showing 2000 rpm while cranking on the starter, you have a trigger issue.

Kalle

The screenshot is when the car is running. When cranking i mostly see 188 or 251 rpm, some times it can spike up to about 500 rpm but not every time.

I´ll try with connecting 12V to the alternator until I have my dash installed.

Kalle

Ok I got the alternator working by connecting 12v to both pins (temporarily)
Works well and I see 14.5 V in Halwin. Had it running about 2 minutes seemed to work good before died and flooded on me.

Now I´ll just have to rewire the ignition coils. But I cant really find a dedicated wire to power the ignition coils. I do have one aux out wire in the ignition harness which is green and black, but its very thin. Is it useable?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

Well good you got the alternator problem solved for now.

Don't use the Aux Out.

I would use the GY/R (12v switched for sensor).

I would also go one step further and wire another wire from the main power relay and run it to a open spot on the fuse block and then run that to the coils so you have a acc pwr wire fused separately.

Kalle

Have I understood you correct?



And the wire I marked with an question mark, is that the wire I´m actually using? Can I connect the second wire anywhere on the GY/R power line?

What size fuse do I need?

Thanks

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

More like this.

Instead of running a new wire through your harness I would just take the 12V sensor and move it to the open slot.

then do like you did and power it from the main power relay.

I would use 10A fuse but maybe someone else has more info on protection of the coils.

Kalle

Ok, test 2




Sorry for my poor electrical skills. Just want to make shure I do it right this time.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

^ that's not fused and actually un-fuses the injectors.

See my attached pic earlier.

......... just use the GY/R and change the fuse to 15A if it's confusing.

Kalle

Oh I didnt see your attached picture.

But on the picture you attached the GY/R which is the sensor supply isnt really used right? If I would connect that wire to one side of the fuseblock it would just be a dead end?

When looking at your picture this is really all I need: ?

Main power relay - to one side of fuseblock - other side of fuseblock to coils. That should make the coils both switched and fused? And I´d be able to use a little larger wire.
Never mind the coil wires are GY/R in the picture

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

I merely used the GY/R since it's already in your loom and is plenty large.

In all honestly not changing anything and just using the existing GY/R should be perfectly fine - I would just put in a 15A to make sure I wouldn't blow the fuse (especially if your using low imp injectors).

Kalle

Thank you for all the help Sesshoumaru. The car is now running and I wired the coils on he GY/R and used a 15A fuse like you said.

I changed to a new 72A battery and changed ms for the coils from 3.5 to 5.5. Now it starts easy and idles, but the fuel map needs some work.

Also need to check my timing again. It seems to jump around a little when reving about 2000rpm. I do have the timing locked at -5 degrees but it still does this? Trigger angle is at 72BTDC which was spot on when checking timing while running only on the starter motor.

I noticed my L1 coil was much warmer then the other coils after the startup. Is that bad?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

If your spark is jumping around 2k with your timming locked you probably have a trigger issue.

Try the trigger diagnostic.

I you can regap the CAS for a stronger pick up signal (I've had good results).

When it's done right and you rotate it with your finger you can feel the difference (feels like it's clicking).

Make sure it's wired up right too (colors change on both sides of the connector).

5.5ms seems a bit long

Kalle

This is REW engine so the CAS is different. I know I´ve checked the CAS wiring diagram over and over again after having some rpm reading issues. But I´ll check it again.

If the timing is not 100% right when cranking or when on idle. Can that cause the timing to be much more off and even jump around on higher revs?

5-6ms is what I´ve been told for the LS2 coils, but I guess lowering it a bit wont hurt?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

If you have an FD pick up that makes it easier.

What are you filters/gains set to?

What are the other setting for the coils?

I would not set the timing while cranking the motor.

Do it while it's running.

Kalle

Filter and gains are set to 0. It´s the only setting that I have stable rpm reading on, but even with everything on 0 the rev sometimes spike up.

Ignition setup:

Trigger angle (BTDC) 72
Tooth offset 5
Locked timing at -5 degrees
Direct fire
Constant charge
Falling edge

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

The trigger angle makes me believe there might be something wrong.

Did you check the polarities of the G and NE pick ups?

Typically FD's have 65 for angle and ~5 for the offset.

This will vary slightly but 72 seems a bit far off.

You won't be able to get the car to run right if you don't get your trigger settings nailed.

Obvously RPM spikes are very very bad.

Kalle

Polarities? How do I check that?

Yes 72 seems high, but thats only what I came up to when cheking timing on the starter motor. When I had the car running and checked around 1500-2000 the marking was jumping around from one side to another.

I tried starting the car again today, for checking the timing again. Started up for a few seconds two or three times. Then nothing.. seems like I keep loosing the spark. And when I take the sparkplugs out, the Trailing plugs are always wet, but the leading plugs are dry.

Also double checked the trigger wiring and they are wired up correct according to the haltech diagram.

Another strange thing that happened was when I turned the key off and even cut the power from the battery, the fuelpumps kept running for like 10 seconds.

Can I put a shim or a small washer behind the FD triggers to get them closer to the wheel?