vmerino

I'm having lots of trouble starting my car. At one point it did fire when it was towed by another car. But the rear rotor never came alive. I checked the injectors wiring and coils. I plug all 4 spark plugs and they fire when outside. It seems that the fuel map / inj time is way off. Since it's not buring the fuel.

Any help will be appreciated.

My specs are:

13BT street ported
all factory sensors and coils
3 bar map
660 / 1600 injectors

Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

fritts

iTrader: (5)

Have you checked the individual injectors for power? Have you verified they are all working especially the rear rotor? You can also check the resistance of the injectors to verify they are not fried. I alway keep an extra injector clip and wires around for unsticking stuck injectors. Just don't power them but for an instant.

Hybrid G

iTrader: (4)

what map are you using? try to find a base map online first step

bumpstart

1.

trigger tooth and lead angle,, read about it, understand it, apply it

you will not get anywhere if you have random stab CAS and not bothered to go through the timing procedure with the lock on and the fuel pump disconnected


2.
cranking will use all of the injectors,, the cranking threshold can be adjusted up or down , this is the point where it will go from 4 injectors back to 2

cranking with that combo of injectors will amount to DOUBLE the amount of fuel added during cranking than would have occured with a stock setup

clearly you need to start by importing a fuel map that suits your injector combination and map sensor

vmerino

Bumpstart,

I went through the whole timing procedure, and still not working. I aligned the 2 marks at the bottom of the distributor, placed the crank pulley at 5ATDC, disabaled the injectors, turned off the fuel pump, locked the timing at -5, etc. So far no luck.

I have high OHM 660cc primary injectors, and low OHM 1600cc secondary injectors, and the tunning guy set up the injector current at 5AMP Peak/ 1.2 Amp hold. After reading the manual, it seems that the set up for the primaries should be 2AMP Peak and for the secondaries 3AMP Peak.

The Haltech E8 only allows for just one type of current set up.

Would this cause the fuel flood?

I got spark on all 4 plugs.

vmerino

By the way, I forgot to mention that after going through the timing lock procedure, I never got the timing light to come on. Weird ha? Placed the timing light on the t1 and the light came on every once in a while, specially when stopped cranking.

I checked the timing light on another car and it works.

One more thing, when the ignition swich is placed to on, i hear a little pop, like the one of the coils shoots a spark. Is this normal?

bumpstart

i think in there somewhere it hints to set the injector current value to what the secondary injectors are
( or is it maybe the lower resistance , , but any rate ,, same answer here )

the motor floods cause you have the timing wrong ,, full stop

the timing light issue is related to the coil design and you should in-fact try L2 with some dual coils
it still fires the same time as L1 in wastespark / distributor ( stock FC coils ) modes

and the issue is related to polarity ,, in some dual coils one spark flows from tip to chamber
the other from chamber to tip
some pickup timing lights filter this out


as for your timing issue,, you are not understanding the CRIT /CRIP ( motec ) or trigger tooth and trigger angle settings

this is not a microtech you drop in hoping the dizzy stab is right
you need to index the ECU to whatever the timing pickup is,,, it must be told early so as to be able to advance or retard the ignition

so-- some cars have 1 or 2 teeth and so many degrees
( more than 45 hopefully if they understand properly )
and other will have 10 teeth, 65 ,, other 11 teeth 65 and so forth

this is because the FC /cosmo CAS can be stabbed multiple ways


as is i still suspect the CAS has turned on you and is 30 degrees out

no matter where it is stabbed it can be corrected in the tooth/ degree counts

if its nearly right,, it SHOULD be 10/65 ish ,, and if nearly there 11/60 ish ish
----all depends ----
and ultimately doesn't really matter as long as it is individually right for your setup

you NEED to understand this before going ahead
if you are really buggered with a timing light signal you can try a dark room and a cheap non inductive type timing light to get it close
they are far from accurate [ smudged ] and a very weak light but they do get around interference or thick insulated wires

vmerino

Bumpstart,

Thanks for all the input.

Good News! I got the car started and running at iddle. I stopped messing with the timing and started messing with the fuel map. As it appeared to me, the 0 and 500 RPM range were set to too much injection time, so I started cranking the engine while looking at the green pointer, then started decreasing it little by little.

I know that it still need to be tweaked some more, but I'm getting there.

I want to thank you for taking the time and explaining a lot of things, which I understand a little more.

I will be opening a new thread and see if I can get some help tunning for light load, since the engine is not reving good enough yet. There is something that when pressing gas pedal very slowly it revs pretty good, but when pressing the pedal faster it almosty stalls.

vmerino

Thanks for the input.

I did check all the injectors and OHM reading are OK.

vmerino

Thanks for replying.

The fuel map I'm using is the one that Claudio posted for 13BT E8 Toggle 550 / 1600.