I happend to look closely at my last datalog and the rpm readings are off, here is what it's reading durring WOT...

4460
4520
4640
4900
4700
4760
4960
4900
.
.
.
5580
5700
5640
5780
5900
5960
6020
6080
6140
6080
6220


trigger and home gains set to 2 on my e6k. I tried 3 and that didn't change anything. Any idea?

 

just thought of something...could it be momentary wheel slippage? like the engine has 1 more hp than the tires can handle.

 

bad wiring?


-Ted

 

2nd that, RFI have fun with that one. Have your screen up, then while watching the rpm start moving harnesses and wiggling connectors, thats how i located mine.

mike

 

I used to try and wire the ignition inputs on an FC3S by using the stock wiring under the dash.  This made it easy, cause you don't have to run that big shielded cable into the engine bay.  If you just tap into the stock wiring, there is a 50 / 50 chance you run into problems due to the stock wiring shield ground still floating - you need to cut and ground the shield now.  If you run the Haltech ignition input wiring all the way into the engine bay, try to keep the "exposed" length as short as possible - the CAS sits very close to the spark plugs (and wires), so RFI is very strong there.

On top of everything else, the stock CAS wiring plugs SUX.


-Ted

 

Last year I didn't have a problem with the same wiring. I don't have the mazda connector I used weatherpac. Connections are still good (wiggled/pulled on wires). I used the haltech wiring and left the shield wire open near the CAS. The shield is grounded at the computer right?? I was told the shield should be grounded at one side only, not both ends. I don't know what's going on here so that's why I was maybe thinking the wheels are slipping a bit?

btw, I have a FB so stock CAS wiring isn't a option

 

Also, there is no shield wire exposed at the end of the cable. I cut it then put shrinkwrap over it.

 

Yep, Haltech ignition input wires are shielded on the ECU plug side.

What kind of spark plug wires are you running?
You might want to inspect them for damage.
We found a set of spark plug wires that had cuts down to the fiberglass braid, and swapping them changed the way the ignition fired.


-Ted

 

Interesting, that could be it. I had a friend make the wires with his "fancy" sparkplug wire crimper. I remember one of the crimps didn't look the best, maybe it got worse. I'll put on a set of OEM FC wires and see what happens. I'll report back when it stops raining.

 

Well.. tried the Fc wires and it made no difference Should I try to move my gain to 1?

 

Just talked to the guy I bought my ECU from and he mentioned that I'm maybe misfiring because of too rich of a AFR. I'm running high 10's at ~7psi (I know it's rich for that pressure). Do you think leaning it out could stop misfires and therefore stop the bad readings?

 

Besides of the RPM readings, what are your MAP readings?
If it's misfiring due to overly rich mixtures, it'll show up on the MAP sensor readings.
If there is any misfiring, it'll show up on the MAP sensor.


-Ted

 

It was misfiring slightly. I leaned it out a bit (too much in one area that I have to go back and fix) and there is no more misreadings in the datalog
Ted, he also mentioned MAP readings would be off. You guys were both right.

But now I have a new problem, staging... I leaned all the bars 13 on up and now it has a lean hesitation as the secondaries come online. Would running the 1st bar after staging a little higher than the 2nd bar after staging cure this?