i shipped my unit back to haltech, $98 to ship it...sucks

 

Well, I found that the cas does register but only when I pull it out and spin it really fast by hand. However while cranking and spinning it slowly it doesn't register.
Any ideas?

 

trigger and home gain need to go up!

 

It runs now,
However it tries to iddle then it dies right away. I am not sure whether it is because of a vacume leaq or what. But it would be nice to figure out why it stalls.
It will iddle get up above 1000 then it just dies.
does the same thing if I take the gas pedal raise it to about 2500 it runs for a second then just dies.

 

so what did you increase the gain to?

 

Vacuum leak can't kill it.
This is why you're using a MAP sensor based ECU.
Your coolant maps are off (if the engine is still cold) or the fuel map is off where it's supposed to idle (if engine is warmed up).


-Ted

 

ReTed if I emailed the map I am using to you would you be able to tell?
I am running out of Ideas!
Thanks,

93BlackFD,
I turned my gain down actually to get it to work, I turned it down to 0 and it starts perfectly.

 

Bump... Help required, why does it stall shortly after starting?

 

Nah, I can't tell.
The coolant maps are highly dependent on engine compression.
I only found this recently tuning all these CZ FC's that are coming out of break-in mileage.
The coolant maps drop drastically as the compression comes up.
With old coolant maps tuned at around 1,000kms to 1,500kms, I've dropped them another *50%* as the engines are hitting 3,000kms to 3,500kms.

It's basically a hit or miss deal.

I can give you a hint though.  If the engine doesn't like to idle, try and prop the gas pedal to get the car to idle at a higher RPM (even as high as 3,000RPM or more).  Once you get the engine to stay running, let the engine get to proper operating temps - this is usually over 180F.  Once the engine hits warm temps, start messing with the fuel maps to get the engine to rev nicer - another hint, if you hit the right ratio, the engine is run smoother and will want to rev higher.  Do this continuously until you can bring the revs down to reasonable idle speeds (I try to keep it at around 900RPM to 1000RPM).

Once you have the engine fuel mapped for zero load just free revving, you tune the coolant maps but allowing the engine to cool down and crank it back up again.  Prop the gas pedal to keep the engine from dying, and now adjust the COOLANT map to get best engine revving.  We know the fuel maps is good at warm, so it's the coolant map that needs adjusting when the engine is cold.

This should get you pretty good starting, and the only other thing you really need to mess with is the Primer (i.e. cranking) map for starting.

Good luck!


-Ted

-Ted

 

the only problem is even if I rev it up (3000rpm) with the gas pedal the engine still dies. regardless of how much I try to put more into it. this is the problem I am having I would like to figure out why it is doing this I dont' doubt that when I get it to iddle on it's own without dying on me that I can tune the maps. But it is the stalling only seconds after starting that is confusing me.

But thank you for the tips. they may indeed prove to be usefull.
Any more thoughs on the stalling?
Jeffrey

 

check your post start temp limit, maybe your post start map is keeping you running but as time progresses it does not satisfy the fuel requirements and the engine dies. Set post start temp limit so it is not getting used (like 100 above or something), then get your fuel maps tuned for starting and idling. The post start map can mess with you in the beginning making it confusing.

 

well I cannot figure it out regardless of changes to both post start, coolant temp map... etc. nothing changes... it still stalls. after only a few second of idling.
This is becoming frusterating I need to be driving this car in a week!

 

Turn the post start off - the 13B really doesn't need it, and I zero out all the post start maps for all my customers.

Hey j, I'd be willing to take a look at the map if you don't expect a quick reply to it.

Send it through email:  reted_2000@yahoo.com
ZIP it if possible, because firewalls and mail servers tend to mangle a non-standard file-type (like .6km)!


-Ted

 

mail it to me too if you want, I can put it up on the web in html format so others can check it out by just visiting a link in their browser (no special software needed).

i'll look for anything suspect also of course

swivel_at_pengaru.com

 

Thanks everyone for you help, I definitely must say that my microtech install was light years easyer than the haltech. But the haltech has some more interesting features.
The car started and ran, turns out that the previous owner when he replaced the wiring harness reversed a wire colour so I taped into the wrong wire. And I found the error and fixed it it now runs at a rock solid 800 rpm.
Thank You everybody for your help ideas and time.
I have renewed faith in these boards!

 

so your final trigger gain was 0?

 

Yes weird eh?
I thought the same thing, but the trigger didn't work on anything but 0.

 

you have learned a valuable lesson. you cannot assume anything. you must verify all wiring before going forward. this is why I start from scratch on all installs. I am also not trying to use this system on a street driven car either. I am glad you found your problem. I hope others that read through this will see that all wiring(even the oem parts) needs to be verified.

 

Ok, haltech has done nothing for me.
I did have it working at one time. it would start every time. then I changed the map in favour of one closer to my setup making tunning my car easyer. after this coupled with me moving my car off the trailor into the garage, now again it doens't read engine speed, however I did check the wiring. I have tried several maps and settings on the Haltech and nothing seems to change could it be the haltech itself? I am thinking it is.
any thoughts or advice again?
This is really starting to get on my nerves I NEED this car running by tuesday.

 

What wire was it that was changed?

Cause i can't get my car to run.

When cranking it shows 120rpm.

And the fuel pump pulses or do not start when i try to crank the engine. But it starts when i turn the key on to the second click.

Then when trying to start, it just cranks and no fuel.

I have sparc, that i have tested. But the plugs are completely dry.

JT

 

when you connected it to the fuel pump what colour wires did you connect it to?
it wasn't that the oem wires were wrong it was that the previous owner switched some things arround. and It took me a while to figure it out.

 

I connect the fuel pump and main relay Grey cable frome the nr 85 on the relay to the ignition cable in the main harnes located in the car. It get's power when i turn on the car , but when i try to crank the car, the fuel pump wont work.

And i also only get 120rpm when cranking, is this enough. It reads 960rpm first then drops to 120rpm.

We tried to hotwire the ign cable to the relays, directly to the battery. When i then try to crank the engine, it turns off.

Every cable have been checked and re checked with the schematics frome www.k2rd.com

So all cable are ok.

I think it's somthing with the CAS signal, that it can't read a correct signal or somthing. Cause whe have checked every cable to and frome Cas and injectors for faults and they check out ok.

When i turn ign on, the gauge for the fuel pressure shows 5.3 bar of pressure. so it's getting fuel. But the spark plugs are totaly dry.

got any clueus?

 

try your gain, home and inital in the ignition setup page, play with them usually 0 - 3 is usually what they are for our cars.
Try that...

 

I have tried the gain on trigger and home. Comes back to 0. That is the only postion it will show any rpm.