The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

Okay, pretty sure the timing is almost nuts on at 85/11....the 5*BTDC is right on with L1, and the 20*BTDC is right on with T1.

Put brand new plugs in....same ordeal.

Running out of ideas...anyone??? I have a video of what it's doing....uploading it now.

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

This is sometimes accompanied by popping in the downpipe and lots of cursing.

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

Maybe I have the wrong front pulley on the engine? I don't think I had any S5's in my parts box, but I suppose it's possible..?

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

I guess the next step is a compression test?

Anyone? Help?

bumpstart

if its low comp due to assembly glue on apex seal,, you may have to tow start it first go
( if manual )

PS s4 /s5 pulleys all have same timing mark position in relation to the crank keyway
( s4 NA does sometimes have a larger main pulley )

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Your car is on fire!!!

Anyway, sounds like a similar issue I had. It's probably too much timing in your ignition cranking map and/or too much fuel in the primer map.

What do your plugs look like? Try putting some oil in your lower plug holes and turn the engine by hand. It should help build compression.

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

If my car is acting like it is in the video, will a tow start fix it?

I kinda ruled out the crank pulley after some research...even if it is the wrong pulley, the timing should be within 7 degrees...with, the range of what I've been playing with, is completely negligible.

I haven't messed with the ignition timing map at all...just been locking the timing and trying all sorts of different values for the trigger angle where the mark is close to the timing mark.

The fuel priming map, I added some fuel to until I flooded it. It might have gotten slightly better when I added a little fuel, but not enough to start it.

Twice, I've put oil in the plug holes and then cranked the engine...haven't turned it by hand...

Apparently, theres nothing obvious I am missing and the engine should start. I don't know what else to try, but I suppose I'll keep messing with it.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Whats your cranking voltage? Have you verified you are getting consistant spark while cranking? What fuel correction mas are enabled?

bumpstart

hard call to make,, since the vid will not play
try towing it with the ignition off, so that centrifugal force with RPM breaks the glue
after that, try bumping it with IG on

- since you have confirmed the timing lock OK,, i see no reason not to try,, always overcomes **** comp and flood

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Good questions.

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

I've got the car on the slow charger whenever I'm not messsing with it....at rest voltage is between 12.0 and 12.8. Cranking voltage is maybe as low as 10.5 when the battery starts to run down, but usually around 11. I'll double check next time for you.

EDIT: With a not great charge on the battery, rest voltage was 12.2 and cranking was 10.5.

My timing light fires very consistently on the leading coils. It intermittently works on the trailing coils. I pulled the plug wire off, plugged a spark plug, and grounded it on the shock tower to make sure that it was sparking more than what the timing light indicated....it looks fine.

Are there check boxes somewhere to disable/enable what fuel correction maps are enabled on the e6x? I don't think so...all the correction maps appear to be set to the factory settings, with the exception of the priming map. I can post the map if that would help, but I got it from BDC, so it should be alright. Can I post screenshots of anything?

Vid plays fine here? I don't know why it posted a video and a picture. I will give that a try after I am sure the Haltech is set correctly.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

I forgot you were E6x. The E8 halwin has the correction maps in the main setup page. Those alone were the source of my many problems. 10.5v while cranking should be enough, but I heard the haltech doesn't like anything lower than 11v (i could be wrong).
I ended up starting minbe even with a low 10 high 9...not quite sure what else you could be missing.
Have you verified compression (sorry if I missed it)

BDC

Sounds and looks flooded to me. Remove all four plugs, remove the Haltech fuses, crank the starter to get the crap out, then go in reverse and fire it up.

B

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

It's not shutting off or anything, logs data just fine, it would be very strange if the voltage was my problem. Not ruling anything out at this stage though. I haven't done a compression test yet, but it sounds strong.

Go in reverse? Like, push start it in reverse?

I've been alternating flood clearing and starting attempts, I'll give it another go. Make sure it's really clear, run some starting fluid through it, and then enable the injectors and play with the timing.

I just realized that with the timing locked, the trim **** probably doesn't change anything, does it? I'll turn the timing lock off and let some tasty, tasty, advance kick in and try and start it.

NZ_87_TURBO

I think i replyed to your post on the haltech forum. Apparently dont waste your time worrying about trailing spark, it only kicks in when the engine is running.
Try changing your CAS, thats what did it for me. I dotn know why but it did, the CAS ran fine on the stock ecu, it even ran the set up a few years prior, but when i got back and tryed starting it i had no joy. Just try borrow one to test it out. all my data logging showed the old cas was working fine also so dont rely on that

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Are you trying to start it with the timing still locked at 5 ATDC?

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

Nope, timing was unlocked...good news and bad news.

Good news: compression is way up. Have 6 even pops and the starter is struggling.

Bad news: Seem to be getting less popping than before....also, main circuit breaker has popped three times while cranking now....the starter is pulling a ton of current.

Oh, yeah, it hasn't started yet, either. ;/

Nige

A starter will pop a CB if its rater less than 150A or so and cranking for longer periods so I'm not surprised, I never use CB in starter cable, encouraging voltage drop.

I agree it looks flooded but lean. Too lean on prime/cranking and wont ignite, and eventually fuel builds up enough to fire but in mean time has flooded plugs. I have been through 3 sets of new plugs before starting an engine, but far better at guessing starting richness now from listening and observing

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

I believe it's a 200 amp CB, and I've probably done about 10 minutes of combined cranking on it with no problem. Now, two or three 10 second bursts will pop it. The way the battery relocation is set up does promote some voltage drop, hopefully that's not my problem!

So, would it be better to add that fuel back in to the cranking map, or the 0 rpm map of the main map? That makes a lot of sense

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

EDIT
deleted my comment on fuel. I see 1000CC primaries, I was thinking of stockers.

Just looked at the 0rpm timing, looks pretty high though. Try flatlining it at 5 degress.

Again i'm no expert, but going with what i've read/seen in my experience.

NZ_87_TURBO

try this; pull the CAS, and pull the fuel pump fuse and then spin the CAS by hand, listen for the ticking of the injectors, tick tick, tick tick, as both fire, and also listen for the crack of the coils as they fire, either leave the CAS out or after you have put it back in, unplug it, turn off the fuel injectors and pull the plugs and crank for 5 sec burst, x 5. this will clear the chamber, install nice clean dry plugs, hook it all back up again, run 5deg timing ( just lock it ), run 6ms squirt time on the priming map from 0 deg C to 40 deg C and let her rip. If this dont work, Re check your CAS as it may just not be sending enough of a signal even tho the haltech is picking it up

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

It runs!!!!

After triple checking everything and running out of ideas, I had my dad push me with his van and it fired right up. Drove it around the block and put it in the driveway...it was idling around 2500RPMs, and occassionally, the stock tach would shoot down to 0 as it stumbled for a split second and then come back online. I'm guessing this is a problem with gain/filter on the CAS?

BDC

Told ya it was flooded.

The 0rpm blip is a poor connection on the wiring to the crank angle sensor's connector clip.

B

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

I'll double check it, you were right the first time

I was going to try playing with the fuel to get it to idle properly, but my o2 sensor is in the end of an open downpipe, causing it to not read anything. I'll have to hang the exhaust and give it another shot.

BDC

The first thing you need to do before fiddling with anything on the map is to get the base timing zero'd out properly. That's done by getting the engine warmed up, setting the Lock Timing to -5 (yes, -5 and not 5), putting your timing gun on either leading plug wire (assuming it's a dual post FC leading coil and not a direct fire setup), then hit the crank pulley with the gun and adjust either the CAS itself or the Trigger Angle (in Ignition Setup) until the yellow mark lines up with the timing mark on the front cover.

B