Romanator

iTrader: (13)

I have an S4 block, HBP on top of large street port, 9.4:1 rotors, RA seals, mazda oem springs, FD oil system, FD stationary gears, e-shaft oil mods, Mazda Racing Pulleys,all necessary mods for a bridgeport turbo setup, Haltech E6X, stock CAS, stock coils, internal 2.5bar Map sensor, all emissions removed, running premix, etc.

Yesterday I was able to get the motor to crank and start after a year and a half of being stored. DAAAAAAAAAMMNN did it ever smoke. Now while my friend is cranking the key, I'm turning the CAS to try and get the motor to start. To get it to start, the CAS has to be turned all the way counterclockwise and I slowly turn it clockwise until the motor roars, smokes like an oil refinery and backfires sound like gun shots.

My freind has to hold the gas at minimum 3000 rpm so it dosent die.

We did a free-air calibration for the wideband LC-1, we loaded a base map for the haltech that we downloaded from claudio RX-7 on the haltech forum.
Now we want the motor to idle so we can check the timing with the timing light. How can we do that if already we're having a hard time keeping the motor alive below 3000 rpm ?

Also the fact that the motor is a bridgeport I know the idle will always be lumpy but I want a good timing to be done so I can drive it. Because I have an appointment on July 19 for a dyno tuning by Ari Yallon and it's a good 45 minute highway drive. I DONT WANT TO PAY A TOWING.

I need advice and suggestions of what to do and what not to do !

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

I got all my main, ignition, and trigger setups from the hitman rx7 web site.
But there's no info on the fuel setup and input/output setups, what do I do there ???

Also what do I do in the options menu, I have idle speed control, Injector trims, ignition quick map, closed loop o2,etc.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

I dont know if this is a big deal. But I dont have stock pulleys I have Mazda racing pulleys and there are no yellow or red dots. I have multiple timing marks in increments of 5 degrees, from 0 - 30 degrees BTC. And 1 extra mark more or less 15 degrees after all those timing marks, I'm assuming it's for the trailing side ? http://www.upgrademotoring.com/perfo...treetpully.htm

Has anyone tried with MR pulleys before, can someone help me out here ?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

have you read the instructions?

have you zeroed the timing?

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Yes I read the instructions, not completely though, the manual is around 180 pages.
No I have not zeroed the timing. I'm trying to do that which is why I opened this thread.

I need to know what are the values that I have to set in the haltech software ? I am talking ignition values now. The fuel will be dealt with a professional tuner . Right now I just need to know what to do to get my car to start, idle nicely, (no bac valve), and be able to drive it comfortably or semi-comfortably for a good 45 minute drive to the dyno and get it tuned.

P.S
My dyno session is this sunday.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

when you say ignition values you mean trigger angle right? that number is whatever it needs to be to make the timing you lock on the ecu the same as it is on the engine.

the ecu by itself has no way of knowing where the engine is in the cycle, you have to tell it.

so if you lock the timing to 0 TDC, start or crank it with a timing light, to make sure 0 on the ecu is 0 on the engine.