Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

Well I just put my engine back in (I changed nothing just replaced freezeplug). pre engine removal it has been using this tune for a year without any problems. It runs fine other then in boost when it has random misfires. I recorded it on a data log while holding it at 5 psi up a hill. I have attached a picture so no one needs to open anything and I highlighted what appears to be the hicup. What it looks like is happening is the injector signal to only the secondaries is messing up. This explains why it happens only in boost. I just want some confirmation, and also need to know how to fix this problem and where to start first.




Haltech E6X. TII

Thanks,
Matt

Also is there some way to convert these numbers to more usable numbers such as the map reading to actual PSI?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Where is your staging bar set? Try recording primary and secondary on time instead of DC so that you can compare what the primary and secondary injectors are doing relative to each other. Are both shutting down or just one set?

Because your timing also dropped suddenly I'm going to guess trigger issue that just wasn't caught as an RPM hiccup.

To convert to PSI you need to do a conversion in the spread sheet.

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

Well the staging bar is at 2 psi. I was holding it above that because from the jump to 1600cc secondaries I can feel it jolt slightly. Also as the situation goes I can hold it in boost for several seconds and it will be fine and then jolt real hard, so the secondaries are working at least enough to confuse me.
I was wondering about the timing deal, so its possible the crank signal is messing up and caused timing and fuel to cut? I really thought that would show in RPM and thats why I did not log the trigger. Injector wiring shorts or faults would not affect the timing at all correct?
With e6x when the secondaries kick on do the primarys stay on or do they switch? Something I should know by now but just don't.


Also, I did change the wiring up slightly and put the sheilded crank wire in the same loom as all the other wiring, I thought it might cause problems but did not think about it till just now. This may be the cause of the problem and will pull it out of the loom tomorrow and see if it helps.

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

I pulled the sheilded crank wire out of the loom, inspected it and put a protective sleeve over it did not seem to make a difference. I wonder what to check next

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

.

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

The problem is now fixed. It was picking up noise, again I rerouted the sheilded CAS wire away from all other wiring and now it works fine.

Are these shielded wires always this prone to noise? or is it an E6X thang?

Also, Ludwig you are always a big help thankyou.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Good deal! In my experience the X is just far more susceptible to interference than any of the other ECUs. But it's still a good idea to be extremely careful about how you route your wiring.

89t295k

Is it staying fixed?

Sometimes mine runs smooth othertimes it acts up.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

The main concern isnt that the X is prone to noise or not, its the fact that the Gain and Filter settings can only do so much, if there is a lot of noise in your harness/engine bay it can get picked by the trigger wires if you're not careful. The rule of thumb here is the following:

Gain settings operate by discriminating signal peaks vs. the rest of the signal, contrary to what you might think, a Gain setting of 1, doesnt mean the lowest gain possible, it means that the Haltech is avoiding everything bellow 3.2v and not considering that a signal, so if your reluctor sensor spits out .25v at cranking you wont even get an RPM reading most likely, in that case, you can try raising the Gain value to 2 or 3 or even 4 or 5, which starts lowering the threshold voltage at which the ECU considers what it is seeing as a signal.

Then you have the Filter option, which is 3 levels of control for noisy or peaky signals, it sort of clamping the voltage above and below certain points to eliminate false signals.

So, having said all this, the point is, that on some, and i stress the word SOME, occasions you will find that you will get an engine that revs perfect and cleanly under cranking/idle/cruising/low rpm conditions, but brakes up at high rpm, or viceversa, thus creating the need to a reluctor adapter or Hall Effect sensor, this will help eliminate this soft of problem completely.

On 99% of my installs and tech calls we can usually have good results from the stock sensors conditioned with the internal reluctor adapter, it just takes a little patience and troubleshooting time to nail it perfect.

On a side note, the CAS from the COSMO engines is notoriously more prone to noise and problems than the 2nd Gen RX-7 version, dont ask me why, i dont know, all i know is that i have delt with it in the past a few times, and it has caused nothing but pain until it gets swapped for a 2nd gen version. I think it has something to do with the common ground wire, the 2nd gen has separated ground wires for each sensor, but dont quote me.

Thats my 2 cents.

Now to address your problem FrostyCrowd, can you do a datalog of the trigger / home counters, mainly the trigger at last home, that way we can see if the ECU is missing at some point because of that. And please post your trigger settings so we can scrutinize them

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I had this problem kick my *** for a LONG time.

In fact, it never actually went away until I took the ECU out of the car

Somethings I did that "improved" the problem:

- Extra shielding (2nd seperate layer?)
- Clearancing magnets inside CAS
- Installed RA10

Also another thing I noted during the years I fought the problem, I noticed while changing between various CAS's. Alot of these babies are approaching or OLDER then 20 years. CHECK THE WIRES THAT GO IN AND OUT OF THEM. Most people re-use the stock connector AND wires thatare on the CAS, and I've found approx. 3 of mine that had little cracks in the insulation where the wires enter the grommet. You needed to actually tug the wires out of the grommet to see them - inspect those areas with a fine tooth comb.

89t295k

Good info guys, I rerouted the wires and changed gains to 7 and 7 just to see and it is better but not gone.

I'd like to know more about installing reluctors.

I was wondering if it would be hard to install a hall sensor off the cas or main pully.
I really don't want to replace front cover.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=RA10

There's a "how to install an RA10"

The other options for building a crank position setup if you decide to go that far are pretty well up to your imagination. You can do one on the crank without changing the front cover, you just need a very sturdy bracket. There have been guys who've made ones inside the stock CAS with some hall effect magnets, but personally I'd want to eliminate the gear lash if I'm going to the trouble of crafting the whole assembly.

E Dogg

iTrader: (1)

the X can log primary and sec injector times separately? i cant seem to find a way to do that.

89t295k

What and where do I get magnets and sensor for hall effect setup?

Also is the problem the wires from cas to e6k or the e6k to the coils?

When playing with gain settings should they remain close ie. 1-2, 2-3, 5-6....

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

yea the problem has not come back since I rerouted the wiring.

89t295k

I just rewired mine too, and moved the wires....they had picked up oil inside. So far so good, I had one 80 rpm jump in two 2/3/4th gear pulls...that is better than 5 or 6 per pull. I will play with the gains and see if it will completly go away next time.

Sould i even change the home gain or just the trigger?

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

Just updating that this issue did come back yesterday. It had not given me a problem but I changed my plugs and when I did I guess I pumped the CAS wire. It started doing it again and I unplugged it and plugged it back in then it stopped. It will still have a lost signal hiccup once and awhile.

I am starting to think it may be a short in the plug. OR there is a certain place that if its routed over another wire/component it causes more interference. Because I have noticed the problem will come and go depending where its routed.

When I get a chance I will of course investigate some of the recommended solutions.