I have been having a problem with my ignitioin breaking up on the car under light throttle input.

My CAS is sheilded on the haltech side but there is no sheilding for about 2 feet going over the engine to the CAS clip. I feel like I need to extend the sheilding all the way to the CAS itself.

I wrapped and soldered 14 gauge wire to the haltech's sheilded wire and then wrapped it around all of the wires going to the CAS. Should this wire be bare? because I left it covered with the insulation. I have yet to ground that wire, but I will do that tonight.

Is there anything else that causes ignition breakup?

The wires are new MSD wires, new plugs, Coils are fine.

Where do I go to change my ignition gain and filter....what settings should I try after I sheild it?

Does everyone feel that if I have 2 feet of unsheilded wire that would def cause a ignition breakup?

 

I would try changing the gain settings. They should be under igntion settings.

I was having a strange breakup also. It would result in the tach needle dropping faster than the engine revs were really dropping.

So, does your needle do that? If it does it is FOR sure an interferance problem.

My issue turned out to be the alternator was producing so much noise EFI...no matter how much I shieled my CAS wires it would cause ign break up.

So, try removing the alternator from the car and starting it. See what happens.

James

 

how will my water pump work if my pulley and alt are off the car? I have everything removed. what if I just unplugged the alternator??

I would think there is someway to sheild the CAS wires 100%.
I will try the gain settings.

 

so should I sheild it with open wire or insulated wire? I want to sheild it properly.

Also I have my CAS wires bundled with my coolant temp and injector harnesses as they wrap around the back of the block. should I seperate it?

 

+1

I was having intermitten ignition break up for months. Broke down and finally replaced my alternator.
Problem seems to be fixed .

 

couldnt you have just sheilded the alternator instead?

 

Sure, just make sure you take the power wire off....and the exciting wires.

But I just took the thing out of the car.

My break up was bad enough where it was screwing around at idle. So, running the car with no waterpump for one minute will not kill it.

I would say no to sheilding the alternator because it needs some sort of cooling air.
James

 

do you think wrapping my CAS wires in alluminum foil will be enough to sheild them from any interferance?

and I still dont know if I should extend the CAS sheildwire bare wire or covered (rubber insulaton) to protect it from interferance.

 

Big Q. I went into ingintion setup my gain was already on 2. I see no filter option on my e6k. is there one? and the gain was 2 because I believe thats how hitman set it up. can i change it to 3? also there are two gain settings.


anyway

guys I wrapped my cas wires in alluminum foil and it seemed to help a bit. I also rerouted my cas to go to the back of the block the wires where orignialy right under the alternator. I still have break up when I try to hold a rev from 1k to 2.5-3k. it revs fine but when I hold the rev it pops a little.

now as far as grounding the haltech cas sheild wire. The only grounds I have is the one inside the car comming off the haltech unit, and then the long on thats on the battery -.

i dont remember there being any more ground wires. I belive when you ground that one inside the car that takes care of all the sheilding grounds.

also was alluminum foil a good idea. I just wrapped it but i didnt ground the alluminum i just wrapped it. I will try taking off the alternator wires tomorrow and see what happens.

 

Taking the alternator wires off is the first thing you should have tried

James

 

cool, and I will try.

But is there a filter setting on a E6K??? I only see gain.

 

Just gain....

 

I heard I should try lowering them. What is the difference between home and toggle gain?????

Should I change them equally?

 

OK guys here is an update.

I removed the UIM and wrapped the entire CAS wiring harness in 18gauge wire that I stripped bare. it is wrapped from the CAS all the way to the factory sheilding but I did not allow them to touch. I then grounded my bare wire to the firewall and wrapped it all in electrical tape. The problem is 99% better. I still havent been able to drive the car yet to see what it will do under load. Free reving it is great and it only studders very very slightly while holding the revs at 1500-2000 rpms.

Also when I installed my midpipe to connect my catback exhaust it really helped too. I was just running open downpipe which may have contributed to the breaking up but I dont know.

If the problem shows up while driving I will swap it out with an alternator I have laying around the garage. If not I may buy and FD alternator and see what happens.

 

i know this is a very old thread but i think this is something related to whats going on with my car. mine breaks up mainly in 3rd + gear under load.

 

E6K wasnt that prone to trigger signal brake up or interferance, the problem is most likely related to the harness you're using, there were some mentions of the factory harness wires being used, that is the first thing to NOT do, since the factory harness is already very old, brittle and probably in very bad condition from age and heat. The Haltech Flying Lead harness does a very good job of shielding against RF noise since the CAS wires have both a metal shield and the thick gray plastic cover for them, and its always good practice to run them away from spark plug wires, the alternator, or CDI boxes.

With the new X/E8/E11 you also have the filter option with gives you additional filtering so you can condition your signals properly so that the haltech can read them as best as possible. NOTE: not all filter and gain combination will work the same on any given car, you may find that one vehicle worked best with a filter setting of 1 and gain of 1, another with filter 0 and gain 0, one thing is for certain, the internal reluctor adapters inside the new series of Haltech's is much more sensitive than the old K, which is the reason a lot of people were complaining of noise issues in the beginning, but after getting to know the settings it was all downhill from there.

So, if you have a lumpy idle and you see that your RPM's are bouncing a little possibly spiking, make sure your spark plugs are good, spark plug cables are good and are not arching anywhere, and dont cross near trigger signal wires. Oh, and there are instances where the root of the problem will also be poor grounding of the entire engine bay, my recommendation on that is make sure you have a good ground going to the block, the manifold, the transmission, from the battery to chassis, etc., pick one good spot and pull all your grounds from there, remember all those ground kits, use them, they work. Another thing to also observe are the positive wires, people forget these too, from the battery to the main fuse, from the battery to the alternator, from the battery to the starter, also make these wires of good thick gauge, it will drastically improve your electrical system, which is poor to begin with. When i had my Turbo II with Haltech i did all these things and my running voltage came up from 12.5-12.7 during normally running conditions to 13.4+, it works.

 

so does the haltech harness already have the metal shield already grounded? does it have to be grounded from each side? i have my harness routed right behind the alternator so i will reroute this. im rechecking all my grounds and positives this weekend. im just trying to get all the info i can get that way i know i got it fixed the first time.

 

For once , I'd love to have a scope and see which one is to blame, the cas wires or the trigger. Since the haltec read pretty smooth I am guessing the trigger???

 

Yes.

No, do NOT do this.
It has to be grounded only on one side.
It's already grounded on the ECU plug side.
If you ground both sides, it creates an effect called a Faraday Cage, and it's going to cause more problems!


-Ted

 

It's got to be the trigger not the lead then, I don't think the trigger is sheilded and is just as close to the spark plug wires.

 

found my problem. i found a cut in the cas wiring. it looks like it was cut in the middle for some reason and reattatched, but there was one problem. the grounded shielding was not reattatched. i then routed the cas wires around the back of the motor and it ran great!

 

Great ! Hoped it was something simple, my intercooler hose used to pop off and hit my strut bar....felt like it blew every time.