Haltech Forum Area is for discussing Haltechs

Haltech I think I need an external reluctor

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 26, 2005 | 06:28 PM
  #1  
BASTARD's Avatar
Thread Starter
®
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 3
From: NorCal
I think I need an external reluctor

I am only getting 60 RPM's while cranking which isn't enough. It needs to be in the 150 plus range. I have everything hooked up correctly. I double and triple checked the wiring and verified all the other setting? the only settings i am not sure of is Trim Control and Spare Input Function on the Main Setup Page. So unless there is something wrong with the ECU I think i need to change the "round " wave signal to a "square" one.

In the mean time I am going to try a few more things like add shielding to the CAS wiring as well as trying to crank the motor without the fan belts on (thinkin the alternator is interfering) I will also try connecting a spare CAS to spin by hand to see if I can get a better RPM signal. I have a feeling all my problems are "noise related" (crossing fingers it isnt a bad ECU)


What When Where can I get a external reluctor? Can I get one from Kragens? Can I raid a junk yard for one? or do I need to special order these things. Do I need one for both pickups? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Reply
Old Apr 26, 2005 | 06:56 PM
  #2  
RETed's Avatar
Lives on the Forum
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Can you tell us which Haltech ECU are you running?
If it's an E6K, you don't need it - something else is wrong.
An E6X should also work properly if wired correctly.

If you're seeing 60RPM, it sounds like your ignition settings are totally wrong - can you tell us all the settings on the IGNITION set-up?


-Ted
Reply
Old Apr 27, 2005 | 01:44 PM
  #3  
BASTARD's Avatar
Thread Starter
®
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 3
From: NorCal
Originally Posted by RETed
Can you tell us which Haltech ECU are you running?
If it's an E6K, you don't need it - something else is wrong.
An E6X should also work properly if wired correctly.

If you're seeing 60RPM, it sounds like your ignition settings are totally wrong - can you tell us all the settings on the IGNITION set-up?


-Ted
Yeah thats what i was thinking... but when i connect a spare CAS and spin it by hand (slowly to simulate cranking speed) i see 120-200 RPM and if i spin it fast it will go up to 2500+RPM. There seems to be a ton of "noise" coming from alternator??? so i tested my theory and took my soldering gun and “waved” it round the CAS and the shielded wires and when I got to the CAS pigtail connector the RPM’s jumped to 500-700 range without the CAS spinning at all. So I am definitely getting interference there. I will have to try spinning the alternator with an impact gun and see if there is any “noise”

E6S

trigger angle 65
3 offset i tried 11 it didnt work at all
trigger and home set to falling
OEM installed CAS
24 teeth
multitooth
distributor
constant charge
rotary toggle
3.5-4.5ms
falling edge
I have the DIP switches all set in the down positions except the last one on the right
firmware 26
series 7

The coils and ignitors are stock


am i missing anything??
thanks -g
Reply
Old Apr 27, 2005 | 01:49 PM
  #4  
BASTARD's Avatar
Thread Starter
®
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 3
From: NorCal
Schmitt Trigger???

Anyone know about the Schmitt trigger?
Have you ever tried to use one?

It's a little chip that changes the SINE wave into a square wave. My neighbor is an electrical engineer; he told me about it. Basically you run it inline. It needs a power and a ground. They cost about dollar.
Attached Thumbnails I think I need an external reluctor-schmitt-trigger-2.jpg   I think I need an external reluctor-schmitt-trigger-1.jpg  

Last edited by BASTARD; Apr 27, 2005 at 02:09 PM.
Reply
Old Apr 27, 2005 | 06:03 PM
  #5  
Project84's Avatar
Open up! Search Warrant!
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 3
From: Kicking down doors in a neighborhood near you
Originally Posted by BASTARD
Yeah thats what i was thinking... but when i connect a spare CAS and spin it by hand (slowly to simulate cranking speed) i see 120-200 RPM and if i spin it fast it will go up to 2500+RPM. There seems to be a ton of "noise" coming from alternator??? so i tested my theory and took my soldering gun and “waved” it round the CAS and the shielded wires and when I got to the CAS pigtail connector the RPM’s jumped to 500-700 range without the CAS spinning at all. So I am definitely getting interference there. I will have to try spinning the alternator with an impact gun and see if there is any “noise”

E6S

trigger angle 65
3 offset i tried 11 it didnt work at all
trigger and home set to falling
OEM installed CAS
24 teeth
multitooth
distributor
constant charge
rotary toggle
3.5-4.5ms
falling edge
I have the DIP switches all set in the down positions except the last one on the right
firmware 26
series 7
If you installed the CAS with with the gear aligned the way Mazda designed it, use 11 as the offset. The "Trigger Input" and the "Home Input" should both be set to Int Reluctor.

^That is if you have a E6K.
Reply
Old Apr 27, 2005 | 07:58 PM
  #6  
RETed's Avatar
Lives on the Forum
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Ah, E6S.
Yes you need reluctors.
Another option is to get a pair of MSD 8509's.
They are about $60 each last time I checked.
Try Summit Racing...


-Ted
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2005 | 01:25 PM
  #7  
BASTARD's Avatar
Thread Starter
®
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 3
From: NorCal
This is frustrating...I can spend another 100+ bucks for more junk that may or may not fix the problem. If it doesnt fix the problem I have to send it to AUS. which will cost me at least the cost of shipping which is 40-50 bucks each way and then the cost of fixing it 100-200 bucks so now i spent 300 for what an out dated ECU that still needs reluctors to work correctly. I think im gonna cut my loses now and smash it with a sledge hammer hahahahhahahahaha, just kidding. I will save it for another project. But i will be looking for a new ECU.....Anybody have a new E6X(one that doesn't have reluctor problems) or E6K they want to get rid of...PM me
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2005 | 10:09 PM
  #8  
tims's Avatar
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: North Hollywood, Ca USA
you could just use "chopper" wheel(aluminum plate with magnets) and an S3 or S4 switch. But the S is a bit of an outdated ECU.
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2005 | 02:06 PM
  #9  
Claudio RX-7's Avatar
EFI Tech Wannabe
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,415
Likes: 10
From: D.R., USA, the world...
Originally Posted by RETed
Ah, E6S.
Yes you need reluctors.
Another option is to get a pair of MSD 8509's.
They are about $60 each last time I checked.
Try Summit Racing...

-Ted
If this is an E6S, can you give me the firmware and system series version? its possible to modify the gain and internal reluctor settings to improve trigger signal reception strength, and you dont even need the MSD's. Ive done it a couple of times with the S.

Let me know,
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2005 | 02:21 PM
  #10  
BASTARD's Avatar
Thread Starter
®
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 3
From: NorCal
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
If this is an E6S, can you give me the firmware and system series version? its possible to modify the gain and internal reluctor settings to improve trigger signal reception strength, and you dont even need the MSD's. Ive done it a couple of times with the S.

Let me know,
Cool I will try anything for the time being...

system series 7
Firmware 26
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Turblown
Vendor Classifieds
12
Oct 17, 2020 03:25 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:43 PM.