jantore

Ok here's the deal. I have a 92 FD with a singel turbo conversion. The engine is brand new with a big streetport. 3mm Hurleys. It has a E6X with 550 pri and 1600 sec. Aeromotive fuel pump and regulator. Base fuel presure at idle is 2.9 kg. It has a Garret T04E 60 trim AR.96 exhaust. Stock coils and HKS Twin Power.

And have been properly run in. The engine has gone about 6400 miles since rebuild. And the compression is very good. Reading -17 in the Blitz boost controller, at idle.

The engine was tuned after about 2000 miles. Every thing was working fine until we started hitting boost. The car would go fine with 0.8 kg of boost all the way upp to 4000 rpm then the tourque and hp would flat and and start to drop after 5000 rpm, and start to realy hesitate. And alot of black smoke would come out of the exhaust. It did also not make alot of HP about 150 rwhp at 4000.

We tried alot, and now i did get my hands on some turbo 2 leading coils and hooked them up with a MSD 6A amp and hooked every thing up with new wires and every thing. Still using stock FD trailing coils. We started tuning and the car was going fine again, until we started boosting at 0.8kg again. It would go fine up to 4400 rpm and then the hp and tourque would flat out again and start to drop at about 5200 rpm. ANd it would hesitate and alot of black smoke would come out again. Now the thing is we made 237 rwhp at 4400 rpm this time.

We have set up the haltech right, i verified that with Steven Kahn at gotham racing yesterday. Timing is at 65 degrees. Steve said to change the Tooth Offset to 5. It was at 11.
Triger and Home Edge is at Rising, seting it to falling makes the engine hesitate on all rpm ranges.
Reluctor gain is 0 on both. The car won't start otherwise.
Spark Output is Constant Charge
Spark edge is falling.
Constant Period is 4.5 ms
Ignition is divided by 1
Staging bar is 12

We have also tried to check for rpm jumps while reving the car and nothing happens. It revs fine to 8000 RPM. No jumping of the tach.

Oh yeah we also changed the ECu, borrowed a freinds brand new E6X. And there was no diffrence.

So im realy getting angery here. Not nowing what is wrong and causing this problem. Im at the point of wanting to change to Autronic or somthing. Going to do one more thing before doing that, and that is getting my hands on a Autronic R500 CDI box and use the new coils that came in the mail today.

We will se if that helps. But my big problem is that my tuner is 800 miles away , and same with the dynapack we are using.

Silver7

My "ign / by" is setup as 2. Could you attach your map to that we could have a look at it?

jantore

Il post the map in a few hours

jantore

Here are my two latest maps.

pluto

Just emailed you a modified map for testing. let me know how it goes.

Silver7

jantore - That map looks really lean, in vac and boost. I'm surprised the car runs at all. Also, some of your settings (fuel setup and ign setup) look a little odd for a stock ignition.. I was going to make some adjustments but I see Pluto already sent you an adjusted map. Let us know if it works out for you.

jantore

Hey Steve i did not get that email, with the map.

What email adress did u send to?

jan_tore_pedersen@hotmail.com

Silver7

We have better fuel here in norway. We have 98 octane, i think it's the same as 95 in the US. And im not running stock ignition. I got a Turbo 2 leading coil with a MSD 6A amplifier. But using the stock igniter for the Trailing coils on the stock trailing coils.

pluto

just sent you again. if it doesn't work, let me know and I'll try it in a different email.

jantore

Got the email now

Oh and i also think i found the problem. I actualy did forget to remove the paint in the chassi where the ground from the battery was connected, after we painted the entire car inside.

I took it out driving today, and just nipped on the gas above 4500 rpm, and the boost was there at once. It did not do that yesterday, it was realy slow. I took nothing to get the wastegate to open, and the AF was rich all the way. And there was no hesitation or brakeup.

Tried it at 5500 rpm and it boosted to 0.89 bar easy with no brakeup. And this was at below half throttle.

So it might be that. But im going to do some more grounding, and add a constant 12v with a relay to the leading coil igniter, so that it get more juice . We are going to try and tune it abit on the road this week after we have rechecked the wires. But i will load your map steve tomorrow, and se what happens.

JT

jantore

Did just go trough the map i got from u steve, i see u changed the trigger and home edge from internal reluctor to hall effect. Any special reason for this. And i also see u added twice the fuel.

I am abit lean, but im between 13 and 14 in af when crusing in vacume. It's nice for fuel economy.

pluto

I must have put it hall effect for some reason. change all your trigger settings back to your old map and go from there. make sure to recheck your timing before getting on it. that map should be pretty close to your setup.

when you do divided by 1 it takes 1/2 the fuel. this is a way for haltech to switch from gasoline to methanol w/o changing the map significantly. so by placing it to 2, it'll take twice as much fuel as your original map. its also easier to do % change when you have a higher injector time.



let me know

jantore

ahh ok, so that is why it has been hard tuning the fuel. With just one push sometimes the af have changed to much to get an acurate tuning. It could go from rich to lean in one push on the fuel map.

We will try and see how it works. I will try and get som lisence plates to test the map. But i think it will be abit rich. Oh and one more ting, i see that the split is at 0 at high boost. Is this safe on a haltech?

u set the trailing ignition to 15 degrees wich is the same as the leading ignition map at 1 bar.

I need to ask, since im a noob at this.

pluto

haltech uses relative timing in respect to the advance timing. by setting it to 15 degrees, it means that you're running 15 degrees trail the leading. I never actually look at your map close enough but it was way off on the fuel so i just sent you a better basemap to start with.

Silver7

I knew those fuel maps looked way off, regardless of the fuel octane rating.

You are basically using stock ignition with one amplifier placed after the stock ignitor (same as me). Therefore your ignition settings should be fairly close to the way you would configure a stock ignition. That's what I was referring to.

Steve, could you explain what the Hall Effect does and why it would be used over internal reluctor?

pluto

hall effect is a square signal vs. internal reluctor is a sine wave.

jantore

Hello Steve i tested the map i got and the car would not run at all on it. It was so slugish.

Does the IGN Divided by 2 mean that u need twice the fuel compeard to IGN Div By 1?

Cause when i turned down the fuel to about half, it would run normal on idle.

I got it to start but i had to keep it running, it would just not idle by it self.

13Beast REW

The FD has a Hall Effect sensor? I thought it was VR. If its a Hall Effect then I might have a problem.

pluto

hm...either your base fuel pressure is higher than 45psi or your idle vacuum is lower than 15in or you're not running 550cc primary. Not sure which.

pluto

no, the FD is a sine wave signal. I use hall effect on cars that runs MSD 8509 in it.

jantore

Hey Steve my base fuel pressure is 2.9kg at idle at 16-17 in of vacume. And im runnung 550 cc pri. I will try the map again tomorrow se what happens. I might have done somthing wrong, but i dont think so.

JT

13Beast REW

Ok thats what I thought. Thanks for confirming though.

pluto

is 2.9kg with or without the vacuum hose tied to the FPR?

jantore

that's with it connected, it's about 3.5kg at 0 psi.

JT

Silver7

That would explain why your fuel maps need to be leaned out.

pluto

take the vacuum hose off. set your fuel pressure to 3kg and reload the same map I give you again. It should be alot better. 3.5kg is around 50psi base pressure.