Haltech Haltech TPS reads FAULT??
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Haltech TPS reads FAULT??
hey guys, i am kinda new to haltechs and just noticed that the tps is reading FAULT.. cars still seems to idel and rev fine etc.. I went to calibrate throttle and went though the steps and it said that the throttle never moved?? any ideas? what should I be looking at? thanks guys!
Tyler
Tyler
#2
mine sometimes reads fault also, if you check the manual it will tell you to not allow the TPS to bottom out. So ajust your bracket were the TPS has some movement even with the throttle closed.
mike
mike
#3
It depends on how you calibrate your TPS also, or if your TPS is old. I could never get my stock 13b-re tps to calibrate correctly and it would jump around while moving throttle position. I tossed it in the trash and put on the GM haltech supplied one, works like a champ. If you plan on running your BAC valve a good TPS reading is essential. The haltech will not operate the BAC if it's getting something greater than 0%. Having a good TPS reading is also needed to get proper throttle pump values. That all being said the car can still run with out even a TPS hooked up, you just won't be able to tune the throttle pump values very well.
Oh yeah, the original question
Does it read a TPS movement while in "online mode" and looking at your engine data screen? Are you sure you have the TPS wired correctly?
Oh yeah, the original question
Does it read a TPS movement while in "online mode" and looking at your engine data screen? Are you sure you have the TPS wired correctly?
Last edited by setzep; 02-16-04 at 04:47 PM.
#4
The mystery of the prize.
first recalibrate your TPS.
It indicates fault when the value it gets from the sensor is outside the calibrated range. So if your TPS is loosely mounted / shifting around it's going to get fucked up and start saying fault.
The other common cause is having carpet or something in the way when you calibrate WOT, then you will exceed the calibrated WOT when you press hard enough to compress the carpet more than you did during calibration, causing it to say fault. But this will be a case that only says fault around WOT.
It indicates fault when the value it gets from the sensor is outside the calibrated range. So if your TPS is loosely mounted / shifting around it's going to get fucked up and start saying fault.
The other common cause is having carpet or something in the way when you calibrate WOT, then you will exceed the calibrated WOT when you press hard enough to compress the carpet more than you did during calibration, causing it to say fault. But this will be a case that only says fault around WOT.
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Ted I have heard the same thing. A friend of mine has a E6K on an RE and he reads fault sometimes. I read fault sometimes as well. It hasn't affected anything for me though. I believe Brian Cane said the same thing, that fault = 0%
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k i can drive the car and everything seems fine. (fine enough with a blown engine ) I am useing the haltech TPS now. I will check and see if its not bottoming out but it still idels fine and revs fine etc. Ill play with it a bit and get back to you.. I was working awhile ago but last time i hooked up the comp it wasnt.. weird
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Originally posted by RETed
Hitman mentioned this is not that bad of a problem, as Haltech ECU TPS "fault" = 0%.
-Ted
Hitman mentioned this is not that bad of a problem, as Haltech ECU TPS "fault" = 0%.
-Ted
#13
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Before you calibrated it, on the engine data page with your foot off the throttle, the TPS should have read something greater than zero. If it did, then the TPS is not bottoming out and preventing the throttle from fully closing. Same with going full throttle. Throttle should reach WOT before TPS reaches 100%. How would you uncalibrate the throttle to check it?
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if you still have the throttle body coolant hooked up, and you calibrated it cold that would definatly change things
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how can i tell if its bottoming out? it doesnt look like it has a plunger type thing on it.. it looks more like a screw on the inside that spins. any ideas how to check and see if it is bottoming out?
#16
bcty, have your tbody on the car and the sensor in your hand. Now with the throttle closed, position the TPS onto the tbody. You wont the tps to be out a very small amount(not bottomend) , so with the TPS mounted and the tbody closed you should be able to take a small pocket screw driver and push back the tps plunger just a small amount. If you dont do this youll be using the TPS as you throttle stop, so when the throttle snaps closed it will be smashing the tps plunger into itself. Hitman has these same directions on his site so you can check them out there as well.
mike
mike