I'll have to look, I think I only have my phone and the other OBD adapter paired to it so far. So maybe I'll do that and see if it works. Although I'd hate to delete the one that's working and risk it not working again lol. I got it to pair with my Note 20 just fine, so I don't believe it's a general android issue. I assumed it was just an issue with the HU itself since Joying acts like only their accessories will work with their HUs. I also bought the TPMS from T'eyes so we'll see if that works.

 

Has nothing to do with the connector you use. The ECU is only going to broadcast OBD information for what’s programmed for the vehicle you select. It likely, EGT is never going to be an OBD parameter, regardless of what vehicle profile you choose to broadcast.

You can use either connector for either Haltech or vehicle CAN. Doesn’t matter. You just need to make the appropriate selection to match in the software.

 

I was able to show EGT through the catalyst temp PIDs like Nik said because that's where they hid it, but he said oil pressure is a no-go. I changed pressure sensors this last winter and now my gauges read incorrectly, so I'll have to come up with another solution for that.

 

I use torque pro app, i was able to find oil pressure under GM preset PIDs, if you dont have, custom PID
OBD2 Mode and PID - 221470
Name - Oil Pressure
Min value - 0.0
Max value - 100
Scale Factor - x1
Unit type - psi
Equation - A*0.578

 

it likely doesn’t have an actual EGT device, but estimates it from the O2 sensor feedback is the typical OEM scenario. I’m not familiar with your system, but that’s how Mazda does it on the RX8. Which it’s also on the OBD2 parameter output as well. Good luck.

 

I saw something about using the GM PIDs while searching but I wasn't sure if it would work. Thanks a million!!

Nik said they hid them in the Catalyst Temp PIDs and that's where I found them. At least they're both showing up and they're a bit off from each other like before, one is slightly hotter than the other. I had tried the EGT PID before and it didn't work, but that was before Nik told me where they put them. I have front and rear EGT sensors, btw. Not sure if that's what you were referring to.

 

I was able to add an oil pressure gauge using the custom PID. It seems to be reading correctly at idle, hovering around 60psi and eventually the 50s, but it increases rapidly when I lightly rev the engine, and I never really paid attention to it before so I have no clue if it's reading right in the higher levels. Thanks TerryD!

The only other reading I'd like to see at this point is the additional air temp sensor that I have in the intake piping, but that one certainly isn't mandatory. I mainly just wanted it for a comparison to the sensor in the stock location. I can also move that sensor to the IC piping between the turbo and IC.

I was even able to make the gauges match my Speedhut gauges in the cluster. Now I just need to figure out TPMS.

Page 1, the main things I want to see. I think I might have the EGT sensors switched. I seem to remember the rear sensor reading higher than the front sensor, but I don't remember for sure.

Page 2, additional gauges that I don't necessarily need to see but I had the space

The launcher software that comes on the Joying unit is horrendous, so I installed the Car Launcher Pro app and it's customizable. You can use different themes and download even more, and you can add little widgets here and there. I still have a little more I want to change. I was also able to connect a thumb drive with 90k songs, so my whole library goes with the car. Wild, compared to 20 years ago.

 

I disconnected the EGT sensors today to determine whether the gauges are titled correctly and they are. When each was disconnected, it read around 5000F on the gauge. I then wondered if I could find the ambient air temp gauge the same way, maybe it would be buried in another catalyst temp PID, but it wasn't.

 

I'm having a weird issue with Torque. More recently I noticed that all my gauges are gone, set back to the original gauges, but their design (blue with red needles) is the same. I'm not sure why it would change my gauges but keep the design I was using.

Also, the dongle doesn't seem to connect to the head unit if I'm out driving, only when I'm parked in the garage.

 

I didn't know these existed. I hooked one up to the car, and it seems to work so far. The engine bay is pulled apart right now though so I'll see later if solves my connection issues.

These are the instructions to use it with Torque. I would think it would work whether you follow these instructions or not, and I imagine any of the USB cables would work, but I can't confirm either of those things.

USB - Torque Wiki (torque-bhp.com)

USB

Torque pro now supports USB connections (requires Android 3.1 (Honeycomb) or higher

To use USB in Torque, do the following:

Setting up

• Make sure Torque is quit and not running.

• Plug the USB adapter into the tablet. A window will pop up asking which app you would like to start for this USB device. Select 'Torque'.

• Torque will start, go into the OBD settings. Change the connection type to 'Wired(USB)'. Then scroll down the USB settings and select the USB device. It should appear as a number in the list.

• Quit the torque app

Using

• Unplug the USB device then re-plug it in. The app will start (select it to start by default from the list when the adapter is connected) and then it should automatically connect to the USB OBD adapter.

 

Well, the disconnect and crashing issue still hasn't gone away and it's driving me crazy lol. The bluetooth dongle would disconnect and rarely reconnect. With the cable, it disconnects and usually crashes the app, but it comes back and reconnects usually, although not always. I've tried Torque and OBDLink apps and they both do it. I've tried many different things and so far I haven't found a solution. It just randomly happens too. Usually once the car is warmed up and after I've been driving a bit, but it does happen before then sometimes too. I've changed so many settings in both apps, trying different things. I've checked for updates to firmware and software for the head unit, OBDLink, Torque, and the USB cable and they're all up to date it seems. Joying has not been super helpful. Torque is the native app for them, but it's an older version. I can't tell if it's actually installed or what's going on, I found a file within the folders on the head unit and tried to install it but it didn't work, although I already have Torque installed. Joying said I need to use their version of Torque and the USB dongle, and the dongle I have is exactly like the one they sell with their kit. Seems like a pretty standard response from companies like this, but it's understandable given the language barrier.

Torque with bluetooth disconnected from my phone at least once before, so that leads me to rule out the head unit, for the most part. I have the issue with both bluetooth and USB, so unless both of them are faulty, that should rule out the bluetooth dongle and USB cable. The only other variables I can think of are:

-Having both apps installed on the head unit, even though they're not both running at the same time. I initially had Torque set up as the app to open with the USB cable connected, and at times it would reconnect while OBDLink was running, so I know that was at fault some of the times. Now I have OBDLink as the primary app, and I've had some drives to work where I had no issues, but that's only about a 15 minute drive and sometimes it takes longer for the problems to start. I'll probably have to try deleting them one at a time to completely rule them out, but I hate to do that since I have both of them customized already.

-The Haltech CAN to OBDII cable.

-Possibly some setting in the head unit making the problem worse, but I haven't found what it could be.

-Maybe there's some setting in the ECU that needs to be changed. No idea.

-Since Torque uses GPS for their app, and I don't believe it will even operate without it (I'm not sure if OBDLink is the same), I wonder if I'm hitting dead spots in GPS coverage. But I figure everyone else would have this issue as well.

So there are still some things I can try, but I'm quickly running out of patience for this.

As for the apps themselves, I've noticed some pros and cons with just the gauges that I'm viewing. On Torque, the boost gauge has vacuum and boost on the same gauge, which I'd like to see on OBDLink but I haven't figured it out yet. So far I have boost and vacuum separate and it's really weird. However, the AFR gauge on Torque only showed commanded AFR, which is kinda useless, whereas OBDLink shows actual AFR. I think you can also view commanded AFR, but I don't see why I'd want to. It took a bit to get oil pressure on OBDLink, but I finally got it with some help from OBDLink support. I assume it's reading correctly, it seems to be at least pretty close to what Torque was showing, if not dead on. Fuel press, coolant temp, oil temp, EGT, battery voltage, etc are all pretty easy on both apps. I love that the gauges on Torque match my dash gauges, but they're kinda hard to see, which makes them somewhat pointless. Although I know I could have changed them to something easier to see. OBDLink is very customizable for the gauges, I never did much with Torque outside of the gauges already created and uploaded by people, but I imagine it's customizable too. Support from OBDLink has so far been better than from Torque, considering I never could find contact info for their support and every time I tried to register on their forum, I never got an email to confirm registration. I joined a FB group for Torque but the last post is from about 2020 and no one has responded to my post. Although the Torque forums do have a boat load of information. Torque seems to be more configurable regarding settings, I wish OBDLink was as configurable. An older version of OBDLink on my phone has more options for PIDs than the newer version on the head unit. I wish both apps would let you dig into the settings on the SAE PIDs so you could replicate them on other apps. I haven't found an ambient temp PID that will work on either app, but I imagine that's due to Haltech not using it.

For oil pressure, what worked for me on OBDLink is the GM oil pressure PID customized as follows:

Metric Units - kPa
English Units - psi
Min value - 0
Max value - 200
Metric to English scale factor- 0.14504
Metric to English offset - 0
Module/Header - ECM
OBD Mode - 22
PID number - 1470
High priority
Equation - A * 3.985

I had considered just connecting the ECU tuning cable directly to the head unit and seeing if I could download and install the NSP software. It downloaded, but the head unit won't install an EXE file. At least that way I could view every gauge I wanted and wouldn't have to worry about it disconnecting randomly. I'd found a car PC a couple years ago that I thought about trying, although it was about $1300 (much more expensive than my Joying). I might end up having to do that though.

 

Well I'm an idiot haha. I fixed the disconnecting/crashing issue with the apps. There are three USB ports on the back of the Joying head unit. One is a cable with the port at the end, and the other two are directly on the back. Apparently Joying doesn't want you to use the one on the cable. I switched to another port and drove around for three hours today and neither of the apps disconnected or crashed. No issues whatsoever.

 

Thanks for doing the legwork on this one 👍 I was able to add oil pressure to my setup using the above config info.

My setup is slightly different. I’m using the new Power Acoustik CP-71W single DIN CarPlay unit from Walmart. For being a $140 Walmart head unit it is pretty amazing. Wireless CarPlay and a very responsive touch screen.

With the goal of specifically using CarPlay I am using OBD Fusion since it has a CarPlay app. I got an amazon Bluetooth OBDII reader connected to the Haltech OBDII cable. The OBD reader connects automatically. OBD Fusion lets you customize different pages of data to view in CarPlay and you can also view DTC codes. Just can’t clear codes from the CarPlay app yet. I can clear the Haltech codes with the phone app though, so no need to drag out the laptop anymore.

 

No problem!

I don't think I've ever seen a single DIN with a screen like that, that's awesome!

I looked at the OBDFusion app when I was still having problems, but since it looks fairly identical to OBDLink and it's made by the same people, I didn't figure it would help. I like how you can view the stats in a list, I don't remember if OBDLink can do that.

What app do you mean? Using OBDFusion on your phone, or does Haltech have an app now? I know they were planning to release one for the Nexus series.

I like the contrast of your gray plastics against the black dash.

 

Yeah, with the OBD Fusion app on my phone. The ability to even view DTC's in car play was only just added in a recent update, so I'm hopeful that the ability to clear codes via car play will come in the near future.

 

I picked up a Haltech TMS-4 TPMS kit and I'm going to try to view it through Torque and OBDLink, but I'm not going to hold my breath for it to work since Haltech doesn't show TPMS on their list of covered PIDs. I got the PID from Ford, and apparently it's a foreign model because they spell it tyre. So far it says no info received, but within NSP, they show as sleeping unless you inflate or deflate the tires or I assume once it's moving. So I guess it's possible, although unlikely, that it will work. I'll let you guys know once I get the car back on the ground in the next couple days.

The calculation for all of them is (((256*A)+B)/3+22/3)*0.145

Left Front 222813
Left Rear 222815
Right Front 222814
Right Rear 222816

 

Those TPMS PIDS don't work, FYI.

I have issues with the OBD adapter disconnecting every time I punch hard into boost, but it reconnects quickly. I'm not sure the cause of that one, maybe some kind of limit in the software on boost.

And I still haven't sorted out the boost gauge on OBDLink or AFR on Torque, but between the two of them I can get most readings so it's working really well overall. On Torque, it only shows readings for AFR commanded, not AFR actual, so it's somewhat useless, but the boost gauge seems to be fairly accurate. On OBDLink, it shows AFR actual, but I don't see a good option to read boost, and it's not a huge deal because I already have a boost gauge, but I'm not even sure that gauge is reading correctly.

 

Just trying this and I cant seem to get my 1500 to connect to my phones BT connection/torque Pro app. I have the OBD2 cable hooked up and I believe everything is wired correctly, the AUX can connector is going to a WB1 box, which connects to the O2 sensor that reads fine, and my OBD2 cable is the other cable that is plugged in. I have configured the ECU to be setup like posted above and the the other options in the software but I just cant get it to connect. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Nevermind, I got it working. Turns out it was not wired into the main canbus when I thought it was.

 

So you have the OBD2 cable connected through the WB1 box, and then that goes to the CAN port on the front of the ECU? And you assigned that per post #18 above? I wonder if you can have two things running through the same assignment, being the wideband and OBDII. I can see that being a problem. Although I'm running the EGT thermocouple box through that port also with no issues.

What kind of harness are you using? Did you use the Haltech harness that has the extra CAN connector? You might have to wire it in like OP did if you're not using one of the Haltech harnesses.

I was thinking you could try disconnecting the WB box and run the OBDII cable in its place to see if that fixes it, but the car might not run with the WB disconnected. Although you could at least do that and just turn the key forward to see if you can connect, without starting the car.

EDIT: disregard. I hadn't refreshed the page yet.

 

No worries, I ended up trying it doing basically exactly what you said, and I was using the Haltech harness with the extra plug, the shop that had originally installed the ecu though just ran it off the AUX plug however instead of running it off the main can, so the main can was doing absolutely nothing. tapped into that and swaped the 02 and W1 box over to that and plugged the OBD2 adapter into the Aux can and everything is right as rain now. (Except my poor wire tap job which is hidden anyway)