Haltech Haltech E6X Turbo Timer
04-25-10, 03:19 PM
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Tenseiga
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Haltech E6X Turbo Timer
Woot!
srry just had to say I finally got it to work......
1 day later ><
The following is respect to FD (Similar for all cars minus wire color/harnesses etc).
Their drawing is correct except you just can't pull a contact from IG1 (B/W).
You need to actually seperate the Key contact which is 12+ switched - from the actual harness (yes the drawing shows it this way just not obvious).
The switched 12+ from the key goes to Aux In obviously.
That first relay is to basically maintain normal operation and "sense" when the RUN is dropped out (done via Aux In).
The second is actually the TT relay and uses the PWR to keep the 12+ on the harness side of the Ignition until the PWR drops out.
I used an after market turbo timer harness and they combine B/Y with B/W.
After review it makes sense b/c if you don't you can't use any of your windows (and other minor things) while it's in TT mode (only providing pwr to IGN1 - this provides pwr to IG1 and IG2).
The only dissadvantage is you can use them while cranking the engine (excessive load) but this is very very rare you would do this (rolling window up while cranking motor - might blow fuse?)
Also when you bench test it the haltech has some logic it appears that if the car has not actually ran it will not time down (a good thing).
There are 3 wires I pulled back from the key/harness interconnect.
One wire is the Blue (ACC)
One from the key - 12V+ (green wire on Right)
One wire to IG1 and IG2 (I cut the Red wire from the TT harness - that's B+ and juse used that, that's why you see tape on the RED wire)
Reason I spent all this time/effort are -
Free
Sleek/Hidden design
Based off engine data
Has run logic
God what a PITA it was but it's sexy (yes I need to add a Kill switch but with TB's it quite easy).
srry just had to say I finally got it to work......
1 day later ><
The following is respect to FD (Similar for all cars minus wire color/harnesses etc).
Their drawing is correct except you just can't pull a contact from IG1 (B/W).
You need to actually seperate the Key contact which is 12+ switched - from the actual harness (yes the drawing shows it this way just not obvious).
The switched 12+ from the key goes to Aux In obviously.
That first relay is to basically maintain normal operation and "sense" when the RUN is dropped out (done via Aux In).
The second is actually the TT relay and uses the PWR to keep the 12+ on the harness side of the Ignition until the PWR drops out.
I used an after market turbo timer harness and they combine B/Y with B/W.
After review it makes sense b/c if you don't you can't use any of your windows (and other minor things) while it's in TT mode (only providing pwr to IGN1 - this provides pwr to IG1 and IG2).
The only dissadvantage is you can use them while cranking the engine (excessive load) but this is very very rare you would do this (rolling window up while cranking motor - might blow fuse?)
Also when you bench test it the haltech has some logic it appears that if the car has not actually ran it will not time down (a good thing).
There are 3 wires I pulled back from the key/harness interconnect.
One wire is the Blue (ACC)
One from the key - 12V+ (green wire on Right)
One wire to IG1 and IG2 (I cut the Red wire from the TT harness - that's B+ and juse used that, that's why you see tape on the RED wire)
Reason I spent all this time/effort are -
Free
Sleek/Hidden design
Based off engine data
Has run logic
God what a PITA it was but it's sexy (yes I need to add a Kill switch but with TB's it quite easy).
