Haltech fresh rebuild + E6k = no start
#52
tom port.. AKA streetport
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sorry i havent responded with reply's...we got POUNDED with snow and i wasnt able to do anything with the car. im going to go out and try again today. i deflooded it yesterday so im hoping to get it to start.
#53
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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Might wanna head to NAPA and get some cheapie plugs. I find after multiple floods/cleanings that even new (as in not ran for long) plugs just won't work right.
On the last rebuild i fired up I had BRAND NEW bureq 9's all around, fired it up and ran for 30-40 minutes, shut it off. Next day I tried to fire it a nd floded, i pulled the plugs and cleaned them, fired it up and it ran on one rotor......cleaned plugs again, same thing only running on one. Replaced all 4, ran mint.
Might not be the problem but hey, worth a shot.
On the last rebuild i fired up I had BRAND NEW bureq 9's all around, fired it up and ran for 30-40 minutes, shut it off. Next day I tried to fire it a nd floded, i pulled the plugs and cleaned them, fired it up and it ran on one rotor......cleaned plugs again, same thing only running on one. Replaced all 4, ran mint.
Might not be the problem but hey, worth a shot.
#54
tom port.. AKA streetport
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thanks for the help...i did manage to get it running again. made sure it was unflooded again before i tried starting it. grabbed my squirt can filled with 2 stroke oil and with some luck she fired...on 1 rotor for a little while an the starter basically kept it going a little but now it fires....i get my plugs from advanced. they have a 2 year warranty. they dont even ask questions. take the reciept and plugs in and walk out with new ones.
i attached another MAP..the primer map is still way up and i still need to pump the throttle...im guessing since this motor has MAYBE 2 miles on it.
i attached another MAP..the primer map is still way up and i still need to pump the throttle...im guessing since this motor has MAYBE 2 miles on it.
#55
Rotary Freak
So is it running on 2 rotors? Change your plugs out.
I can tell you are trying to tune out fuel at 1000 rpms. This is OK, but you HAVE to realise the haltech takes an average of 1 bar left and right as well as one map forward and back, maybe even more than just that. Its not going to help you much if you have 2.3ms at 1000 rpm and 3.5ms at 500 and 1500 on the same bar.
That being said it looks like youve got too much fuel with your 850cc primaries. Just taking a guestimate, 2.3ms seems about right for idle conditions and anything over 3ms is probably way too much even for cold conditions.
Lower your post start map to 10% at bar 1, 7% bar 2, and 6% bar 3. Even it out all the way to bar 16!!!!!
Do you have any cold start assist solenoids or something else to keep the rpms up while cold? Make sure that stuff is working if you do, and if you dont then set the idle screw a couple of turns in. I'd like you to get that thing high idling at about 2-2500 rpm; it will stay running much easier.
Can you provide a datalog?
I can tell you are trying to tune out fuel at 1000 rpms. This is OK, but you HAVE to realise the haltech takes an average of 1 bar left and right as well as one map forward and back, maybe even more than just that. Its not going to help you much if you have 2.3ms at 1000 rpm and 3.5ms at 500 and 1500 on the same bar.
That being said it looks like youve got too much fuel with your 850cc primaries. Just taking a guestimate, 2.3ms seems about right for idle conditions and anything over 3ms is probably way too much even for cold conditions.
Lower your post start map to 10% at bar 1, 7% bar 2, and 6% bar 3. Even it out all the way to bar 16!!!!!
Do you have any cold start assist solenoids or something else to keep the rpms up while cold? Make sure that stuff is working if you do, and if you dont then set the idle screw a couple of turns in. I'd like you to get that thing high idling at about 2-2500 rpm; it will stay running much easier.
Can you provide a datalog?
#57
tom port.. AKA streetport
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computer ignorant
yes its on 2 rotors again
the car was idiling at around 1K thats why i was adjusting it there. i see what you are saying about the fuel adjusting. the car only ran for a half hour, enough to keeping form flooding again. i will get new plugs. we are getting pounded with snow AGAIN right now so it mught be a little while before i can really do anything with it. i could do a remote desktop session but im not sure when. i will PM you and we can set up a date and time when we are both free?
yes its on 2 rotors again
the car was idiling at around 1K thats why i was adjusting it there. i see what you are saying about the fuel adjusting. the car only ran for a half hour, enough to keeping form flooding again. i will get new plugs. we are getting pounded with snow AGAIN right now so it mught be a little while before i can really do anything with it. i could do a remote desktop session but im not sure when. i will PM you and we can set up a date and time when we are both free?
#58
Rotary Freak
Sure we can do some sort of remote desktop maybe this weekend. Maybe think about getting a webcam and mic in there so I can hear the engine and see the tach? Most laptops have both already, and programs like AIM can cast video. We'd just have to test the remote desktop. Catch me on AIM at atvmasta1.
#59
tom port.. AKA streetport
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soooo....come to find out the primary injectors are different. 1 is a 750 the other 850!!!
sheeeshh....im surprised i had it running almost decent!!! 100 CC's different would make a difference. thats my own fault for not overlooking the part #'s on the injectors before install. im having another 750 sent to me this week.
sheeeshh....im surprised i had it running almost decent!!! 100 CC's different would make a difference. thats my own fault for not overlooking the part #'s on the injectors before install. im having another 750 sent to me this week.
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lol.. after all this time... glad to hear you figured it out. I wonder how many people have blown up motors because of similar oversights. I had some 680's that looked identical to some 550's i had, both injectors had the part numbers ground off. Only reason I figured it out was by sending them in to get cleaned and tested
#64
tom port.. AKA streetport
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things are looking good man. i have my injectors out right now waiting for the RIGHT one. i decided i cant ditch this project after how far i came.
yep. thing is...i got it running OK but it just didnt seem right. when buying USED injectors...ALWAYS send them out to get check and cleaned...CHEAP insurance. saved me a motor i know that!
lol.. after all this time... glad to hear you figured it out. I wonder how many people have blown up motors because of similar oversights. I had some 680's that looked identical to some 550's i had, both injectors had the part numbers ground off. Only reason I figured it out was by sending them in to get cleaned and tested
#65
tom port.. AKA streetport
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ill tell ya what....cars run better with matched injectors!!!
it fired up the second attempt after sitting for a couple months in the cold! i put 5 miles on it last nite trying to get the motor broke in more. i have some igniton breakup (RPM's drop for a sec or 2 in lite throttle) that im going to take care of. once again...i couldnt done it without you guys!!
it fired up the second attempt after sitting for a couple months in the cold! i put 5 miles on it last nite trying to get the motor broke in more. i have some igniton breakup (RPM's drop for a sec or 2 in lite throttle) that im going to take care of. once again...i couldnt done it without you guys!!
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