fd_neal

iTrader: (4)

After much searching and reading of the FSM, and really hoping I didnt miss an easy hold my hand how to thread Here is how I will wire up my sport series haltech, I dont want to get into any of the engine stuff as I feel thats very self explanitory. Please provide feedback.

ECU connectors
1B - switched ignition - pink wire
1L - AC - DPO
1M - road speed - DPI
2B - Tach - DPO

Blue connector
unmentioned wires lead to transmission disconnect and are untouched.
white/blue - rad fan relay - DPO
black/white - harness ground - ground (not sure that i need to)
brown/black - sensor ground - ground (again not sure I need to)
Black/green - air pump - cut
black/blue - air pump - cut
black/yellow - Injector 12v+ - cut
brown/black - sensor 5v+ - cut

White connector
unmentioned wires lead to transmission disconnect and are untouched.
Black - ground - ground
black/red - rad fan switch - leave or cut?
yellow/wite - coolant temp gauge - leave
brown/yellow - AWS - cut
blue/green - EGR - cut
yellow - EL unit? - cut


Is there any use in keeping the black/red wire? Will plugging it back into the rad fan switch on the coolant filler neck kick the rad fans onto high speed when the switch closes?

Is there any use in grounding the black/white and brown/black wire on the blue plug?

fd_neal

iTrader: (4)

Time for an update as some of the above information is inaccurate.

First for the A/C 2 wires will need to be connected,
1E (violet) connected to an Input AND the above mentioned 1L connected to the output.
^I have not tested this yet, but it should work, as connecting 1L to 1E will bypass the ECU from the A/C system all together

The black/white wire off the blue connector carries 12v+, I cut and taped this wire off and left it unused.
The Black/red wire off the white connector going to the fan switch, if left hooked up and will indeed bump the fan speed to high when the switch closes.
also the brown black wire got cut, there is no need to use this one.

I chose to repin the CAS connectors, I used these pins that are used for fuel injectors. They arent 100% perfect but IMO far better than using a crimp connection onto old brittle wires. De-pinning the cas clips takes a few minutes be isnt that bad to do without damaging the connector. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/569 When doing things this was make sure to double check the haltech diagrams as some show the -/+ for the cas plugs in reverse (but the wiring colors are correct, which doesnt help one the plugs are depinned). The correct way is when viewing from the front the negative wire is on the left side.

krayton

iTrader: (2)

that wont work on the ac wires.

basically it goes like this


AC button -> AC thermoswitch (12V off, 5V on) -> goes into haltech (settings of 5V AC input) -> haltech out uses a PWM wire to GROUND clutch on AC compressor


the thermoswitch is important because it regulates the ac. you cant just keep the compressor going otherwise itll seize.


i did it on my e8, you use both wires. going into haltech, and one out of haltech. just like the stock ecu

fd_neal

iTrader: (4)

I have mixed up how to wire the AC with the ECU bypassed, but thats not what im trying to do.
The way I read the FSM is that 1E (violet) gets 3v when the AC switch is turned on and 12V when the switch is off. When 1L(yellow/black) gets grounded the A/C turns on.

The DPI or DSI or AVI can handle the input from the AC switch (1E) Im using the DPI as the rest of my inputs are used up, set it to falling edge and the software menu to A/C input. Then a DPO connects to the AC relay ground (1L). The haltech should then ground 1L when it sees a voltage drop from 1E. Is this wrong?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

There is now a patch loom for the FD if that's a route you would be interested in going.

fd_neal

iTrader: (4)

No the car is fully wired and running (other than a failed ignition coil) I wanted to put together an accurate piece of information as when I was doing all my research I felt much of what I found was scattered around, some unavailable, and some incorrect. My second post was to correct a couple of items I had wrong in my first post. Everything has been tested but the A/C.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

I didn't supervise the AC with the haltech.

A/C not going to make that much of a difference daily driving and just turn it off if you want to go to the track.

I'm using the aux in anyway for a Turbo timer.

1000hpRX7

i am having a problem with my ac compressor cutting in and out. whats happening is my compressor relay is losing its ground(yellow/black) causing the relay to open.
i have a Haltech E6X and im not sure how the previous owner wired the ac. for some reason the yellow/black wire is spliced into a grey/red wire. does anyone have an idea on why they may have done this?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

IIRC it's to bypass the ECU interupt.

If your not using the turbo timmer feature (aux in open) and you have a spare output (pwm) you might as well wire it in correctly which is pretty straight forward.

Makes it easier also when the ac comes on

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

The AC compressor will also cycle on-off when the system pressure is low.

1000hpRX7

what do i need to do to connect the ac correctly?